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11-05-2022, 03:31 PM
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#1 |
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The Dictater
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Whistling When Pressing Clutch
While accelerating in any gear past ~4000 rpm, I press the clutch to shift and get a warbling whistle noise that winds down over a second or two. It sounds a bit like a string trimmer or small propeller freewheeling after being spun up. First thought is TOB.
Can anyone confirm this, or is there anything else it might be? 59,210 miles 2013
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11-05-2022, 03:37 PM
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#2 |
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義理チョコ
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Would be my guess. Do it before it gets too cold to work.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-05-2022) |
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11-05-2022, 05:27 PM
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#3 | |
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The Dictater
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post: | spike021 (11-05-2022) |
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11-05-2022, 06:48 PM
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#4 | |
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義理チョコ
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Quote:
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | soundman98 (11-05-2022), Spuds (11-05-2022) |
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11-05-2022, 08:16 PM
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
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| The Following User Says Thank You to blsfrs For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-05-2022) |
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11-05-2022, 08:51 PM
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#6 | |
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The Dictater
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Quote:
I did some more research and tests and I am certain it is the TOB. Gives a bit of squealing any time I have the clutch depressed when stationary. I can free rev in neutral and drop back to idle without any weird sound. However, if I depress the clutch pedal on the way back down I get the whistling.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post: | blsfrs (11-06-2022) |
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11-05-2022, 09:22 PM
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#7 |
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ProCrastinationConsultant
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time for the verus fork, pivot point, and pdm case saver!
https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...rch=fork#attr= https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...rch=fork#attr= https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179109...1990-2018.html
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | blsfrs (11-06-2022), spike021 (11-05-2022), Spuds (11-05-2022), Ultramaroon (11-05-2022), x808drifter (11-06-2022) |
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11-05-2022, 10:03 PM
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#8 | |
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The Dictater
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Already in my shopping cart along with Verus LCAs. Hesitating because I'm also looking at what a clutch costs since I am going to be pulling the transmission anyway and was trying to retain a semblance of budget. Might need to give up some other stuff... Never heard of the case saver, I'll look into it. Is the common knowledge on clutches/flywheels to just stay OEM because it's the most reliable?
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11-05-2022, 11:43 PM
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#9 |
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The Dictater
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@soundman98 So I'm torn on the pdm tsk1. It's a good idea, but it seems like a pita to get a new bearing if I ever need to replace it again. You ever used this?
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11-06-2022, 12:05 AM
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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@Spuds if you ever need a tsk1 replacement then just get another tranquil bearing. They've been making case savers for MT subarus for years.
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11-06-2022, 12:12 AM
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#11 | |
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The Dictater
Join Date: Apr 2017
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Quote:
__________________
If a picture is worth a thousand words, a model is worth ten thousand pictures.
Also: "Build Thread" |
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11-06-2022, 12:22 AM
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
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The main reason for a tsk1 kit is if your case and snout got worn by a broken bearing. If you don't have much damage to the case, then just run a regular bearing. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to radroach For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-06-2022) |
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11-06-2022, 12:42 AM
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#13 | |
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ProCrastinationConsultant
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the snout is aluminum, and the bearing is steel, it's just asking for galling up the snout, bad bearing or not. The thread had indicated they re-stamped a Toyota throw out bearing for the kit. I'll see if I can find it. I'm currently at 55k, so I'm getting to the point of starting to order stuff for the 60k service. I'm starting to consider doing this as well just to get it out of the way.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-06-2022) |
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11-06-2022, 12:44 AM
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#14 |
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ProCrastinationConsultant
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB
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__________________
"The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"
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| The Following User Says Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-06-2022) |
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