Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[Irace86.2.0]

I got my crash bar, some gummies and a nice note along with some stickers. Seems like a good crew over a True Focus Fab. I will need to weld on some brackets for the FMIC and for the horn, and then I will paint.

[Irace86.2.0]

I purchased the kit now that it is released, minus the transmission stuff. After much deliberation with the wife, we think sticking to a mild build and using the stock transmission is best to get the car up and running, since I am busy with nursing school. Then I will do a build of the motor and transmission swap after school. I still want to rest on it for a few days and make some calls before I purchase the rest of the Kpower kit.

I need to order the EP3 pulley that replaces the power steering pulley, some coolant pipes, and since I didn't get the full kit, I need to get the coolant transitions that come with the full kit. I will also need to get the IC pipes, AN lines, rest of the downpipe, and I'm sure there will be more.

[Carlysh]

Keep up bro looks really good probably i will buy the full kit, couldn't understand well the race package, but i think i will do the full build trying to geo 250hp N/A. Btw congrats on nursing school is hard but worth it, Wife just finish her DNP,Arpn

[Irace86.2.0]

Nice explanation of 3 port vs 4 port EBC

https://www.enginebasics.com/Advance...t%20boost.html

I got the Halbech 3 port EBC and flex fuel sensor. Seems like they will do fine. Pretty much have everything purchased at this point except IC pipes, AN fittings, downpipe pipe and coolant pipes.

[visbits]

I literally registered on here to thank you for posting up everything you sorted out for the oil cooler.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by visbits

I literally registered on here to thank you for posting up everything you sorted out for the oil cooler.

No problem. Once I get the motor in I’ll add lengths and angles of all AN lines that I use to the list. Definitely more details to come.

[Irace86.2.0]

I got the Haltech EBC and FF kit in. I got the K-tuned EP3 pulley installed, which I got because it allows for extra tension adjustment and looks nice. I got the Hybrid Racing plug installed. I thought I purchased the plug prematurely because normally it is used to block off the heater core for track cars, and I want my heater working, so I contacted Kpower. They said the Hybrid Racing plug is necessary with their coolant setup irregardless. They said they will be working on the install guide soon, so when that is released, it will be more clear how they routed everything.

The other thing they sent was an Amazon link to the coolant adapters. They only sent this one link, and there are two adapters pictured in their swap picture, but there are at least three adapters used in their pictures. The 1.5'' to 1.25'' adapters go from the radiator to a smaller diameter hose leading to the back of the motor or the thermostat, but they also seem to show a 1.25'' to 1.25'' adapter extending the coolant hose. Only two adapters will likely be needed in the future because they plan on making silicone hoses, but until then, I think three adapters might be necessary unless you can find a single long hose with a curve from the back of the motor to the passenger side of the radiator (see picture below).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQDYYPT...v_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/Splice-Couple..._t2_B07KQDYYPT

[Irace86.2.0]

I decided to just buy the coolant pipe adapters. They were cheap, so even if I don't use all of them, it won't be a big deal.

I am debating on what I will be doing for the intercooler piping. Originally I was going to weld up something pretty. I was going to weld on an aluminum elbow to the turbo compressor housing. I was considering doing some nice Vibrant couplers. Then everything was delayed, so now I am in nursing school, and I really don't have a lot of time. Also, a hard mounted engine that isn't a daily driver might be good for some Vibrant HD clamps, but for a daily, it is overkill and maybe even undesirable, besides being expensive. The motor will be moving, so those V-band or Vibrant style clamps will put a lot more stress on the components, which could result in a cracked pipe. Silicone couplers will allow much more movement in all directions. I am not going to be putting down high boost, so really, silicone couplers with some T-bolt clamps should be more than adequate.



The turbo outlet is only 2'', and I want to run 2.5'' intercooler piping all around, so instead of welding on a 2.5'' aluminum elbow or doing a straight reducer/expender to a curved pipe, I'll just get a 2'' to 2.5'' 90 degree silicone elbow. I think the transition will be smoother, and it will provide better flexibility. I think I might do a 2.5'' 45 degree elbow off the throttle body too, so it clears the airbox, if it clears the airbox. I think it would be better than a hard pipe and coupler right there, but I might not get the choice and have to snake a pipe in there.




The turbo inlet is 3'' and so is the stock airbox, so hopefully there is room in the engine for the stock airbox because I can just do an L pipe from the turbo to the box. I will likely have to weld something, but I was also thinking of adding a CAC coupler from the box to the pipe, and maybe I would just use hump couplers on all the connections for some extra flex in the system (see below).




I was using CXRacing's different kits to eyeball what I might need. It looks like I can get away with just using some off the shelf pipes, which I could weld together, so I am using less couplers, but yeah, essentially a few elbows, 45 degree bends and some 45 silicone couplers will do the job. The intercooler has 3'' outlets, so I would need some 3'' to 2.5'' 45 degree couplers on either end that I can swivel to the best angle. I saved some soda cans that I plan to tape together to mock up the pipes, so I don't order more than I need. I want to order stuff now, so I have it when the kit finally arrives in five years, but it is also hard to predict what I will need without the motor in the car.

[DIY]

The Vibrant HD clamps allow a lot of movement, possibly even more than silicone. Watch this video, at around 5:20 they show the freedom of movement in 2 places.

I bought the Epman clamps off Aliexpress for my build, the full set cost the same as one Vibrant clamp.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by DIY

The Vibrant HD clamps allow a lot of movement, possibly even more than silicone. Watch this video, at around 5:20 they show the freedom of movement in 2 places.

I bought the Epman clamps off Aliexpress for my build, the full set cost the same as one Vibrant clamp.

I’ll consider the clamps. I think the Vibrant clamps are overpriced like many products sold to Americans that are probably produced in China, but I also heard the tolerances on the o-rings or the use of materials on the Chinese ones can sometimes be cheap to such a degree that there are boost leaks. If you say these ones are good then I may give them a try.

Silicone couplers allow a lot more movement, but these actually look pretty good, so thanks for the video. I know they say 12% ROM, but I didn’t think it would be that much. Considering he used only two clamps at either end, that was decent movement.

[DIY]

I normally avoid Chinese knockoff products to be honest but the way I see it with these clamping systems they are all just small variations of the original Adel Wiggins design yet they still want to charge you a fortune for what is essentially a copy.

I watched the video below and thought I'd give them a go. I have received the clamps and visually the quality looks excellent. Obviously my car is not running yet but I doubt I will have a problem with the low-ish boost pressures I plan to run with my Honda engine.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by DIY

I normally avoid Chinese knockoff products to be honest but the way I see it with these clamping systems they are all just small variations of the original Adel Wiggins design yet they still want to charge you a fortune for what is essentially a copy.

I watched the video below and thought I'd give them a go. I have received the clamps and visually the quality looks excellent. Obviously my car is not running yet but I doubt I will have a problem with the low-ish boost pressures I plan to run with my Honda engine.

I’m not opposed to having Chinese knockoffs. My turbo, wastegate, BOV are all Chinese knockoffs, but still good quality. I just need reviews or a video like this to confirm the quality is there, so thanks. I’ll consider these.

I’ll would still have a silicone coupler on the intake box. I’d need an expander 90 elbow for the turbo outlet from 2” to 2.5”. I’ll maybe need a 45 elbow off the throttle body. I would need to sand the powdercoat off the ends of the intercooler to mount the clamps, and then I will need 3” to 2.5” reducers.

Silicone couplers would be adequate, but this would be unnecessarily better. Still, it is more appealing. I might have to pit an elbow on the throttle body to clear the airbox, so I might as well make it clean.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by DIY

I watched the video below and thought I'd give them a go. I have received the clamps and visually the quality looks excellent. Obviously my car is not running yet but I doubt I will have a problem with the low-ish boost pressures I plan to run with my Honda engine.

You can buy 6 of these plus the shipping cost for the price of one vibrant clamp. Which makes them very enticing

[Irace86.2.0]

I ended up buying them. I got everything I need for the intercooler setup and exhaust today from Ebay, Aliexpress and Amazon including the following:

--Turbo 2'' to 2.5'' cast aluminum 90 elbow
--TB 3'' cast aluminum 45 degree elbows x 2
--2.5'' and 3'' aluminum intercooler piping of varying shapes (2.5'' on hot side and 3'' on cold side; overkill, and might issue slight lag, but setup for big boost down the road and less reducers needed)
--Epman 3'' HD clamps x4 for turbo inlet, intercooler and TB
--Epman 2.5'' HD clamp for turbo outlet
--Vibrant 3'' to 2.5'' aluminum reducer for the intercooler feed side
--Vibrant 3'' CAC silicone coupler
--Roadformer 3'' T-bolt clamps x2

--3'' stainless flex pipe
--3'' to 2.5'' stainless reducer

I'll still need some stainless exhaust piping to finish the downpipe, but I'll wait on that until I know what kind of bends I'll need. For the intercooler piping, I used some soda cans I was saving to very roughly mock things up, so I knew what I needed to order, but I did order enough with room to spare. There seems to be plenty of clearance potential based on the pics below, but the intake box might have to go if I don't have the clearance.