Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by bokehmon

Did you have to get your car reflashed to a k00G tune?

Mine's on a A01C, and I'm noticing the same issue.
(to be fair - i flashed the car myself... so my fault)

https://datazap.me/u/bokehmon/log-16...&data=12-31-44

Go to A01G/A02G if you want smoothness and a reliable tune.


For any of you who has an US tune like this, i d offer a free retune to try with me just to prove you how smoother and how better every where and overall it will be

[B T]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

LOL, our sensor hit 12.1 only at stock, normally good tuner rescale it

I'm confused as to how you're rescaling this sensor. They are generally scaled to full range and that's that. It can't be scaled over what it's designed to handle without giving erroneous readings.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

LOL, our sensor hit 12.1 only at stock, normally good tuner rescale it

Anyway that log I see... is full of bugs, as usual in your Country

I can t believe people spend like 500 usd or more to get such a bad tune, from a tuner who is obviously not informed at all in our car

Why do you believe Subaru USA would continue using bugging software here; assuming you are correct? I have a 2020.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Why do you believe Subaru USA would continue using bugging software here; assuming you are correct? I have a 2020.

No you haven't understood well.
It's not the official software that is bugged

it is the ecutek racerom patch applied to an US rom
It brings bad things like a forced 100% PI injection during idle and runoff, it also messes with the fueling compensation under boost, but most tuner don't even notice they just scale the maf with what they get and let the ecutek closed loop help a bit

every single log from any of you americans I see that is tuned with ecutek , is atrocious and full of bugs.. and I bet it s not smooth at all during normal driving

Apart from steve99, i maybe remember only Zach from csg be aware of this.. not even sure about this

I even mentioned this to the ecutek support and while they are good at helping quickly when you need them for things closely related to their system, they won't help in this it seemed to me. Either they don't know how to fix it or don't care anymore.. because the cars with those bugs drive anyway in a sufficient way

@B T steve99 also wrote about this, you can search his threads
Even a simple OTS from openflash has a rescaled sensor, the oem lambda is quite good till 11 afr more or less

[bokehmon]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Same tune and it has been fine. A little stumble at idle sometimes but really smooth while driving and doing pulls.

The tuner told me our stock sensor only hits 12.1 and he used the dynapack’s dual wideband sensors to tune richer under WOT. The AFR looks fine when cruising around.

Mind doing another log with some idle and a couple pulls?

I'd like to see what the values *should* be after your leak was fixed!

I noticed that my vacuum (manifold absolute pressure psi) was about 1-2psi lower than yours when you had a leak.... wondering if there's any issues tehre.

[bokehmon]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

No you haven't understood well.
It's not the official software that is bugged

it is the ecutek racerom patch applied to an US rom
It brings bad things like a forced 100% PI injection during idle and runoff, it also messes with the fueling compensation under boost, but most tuner don't even notice they just scale the maf with what they get and let the ecutek closed loop help a bit

every single log from any of you americans I see that is tuned with ecutek , is atrocious and full of bugs.. and I bet it s not smooth at all during normal driving

Apart from steve99, i maybe remember only Zach from csg be aware of this.. not even sure about this

I even mentioned this to the ecutek support and while they are good at helping quickly when you need them for things closely related to their system, they won't help in this it seemed to me. Either they don't know how to fix it or don't care anymore.. because the cars with those bugs drive anyway in a sufficient way

@B T steve99 also wrote about this, you can search his threads
Even a simple OTS from openflash has a rescaled sensor, the oem lambda is quite good till 11 afr more or less

What other bugs should I be looking for in the data?

I see my PI ratio at 100% at idle sometimes, but also other times (hot restart), it's at zero at idle...

[boldfin]

I am preparing to install BT's remote MAP using the alternate install method where you tee off the brake booster line for vacuum to the bypass valve. I bought a 3/8" X 1/4" X 3/8" brass tee adapter, so I'm set there. My BRZ is an Auto, so it gets vacuum for the brake booster line from a different place than the manuals do. I think it's from a vacuum pump attached to the back of the head, not the manifold. Does that matter?

[B T]

Originally Posted by boldfin

I am preparing to install BT's remote MAP using the alternate install method where you tee off the brake booster line for vacuum to the bypass valve. I bought a 3/8" X 1/4" X 3/8" brass tee adapter, so I'm set there. My BRZ is an Auto, so it gets vacuum for the brake booster line from a different place than the manuals do. I think it's from a vacuum pump attached to the back of the head, not the manifold. Does that matter?

Just want to add, I haven't tested this method on an automatic. If the vacuum builds with engine RPM as opposed to reference pressure at the intake manifold, it would cause your bypass valve to be open all the time. There's nothing wrong with plumbing it to the bypass valve line like originally designed and would probably be better in the case of automatics.

[toast]

Originally Posted by boldfin

I am preparing to install BT's remote MAP using the alternate install method where you tee off the brake booster line for vacuum to the bypass valve. I bought a 3/8" X 1/4" X 3/8" brass tee adapter, so I'm set there. My BRZ is an Auto, so it gets vacuum for the brake booster line from a different place than the manuals do. I think it's from a vacuum pump attached to the back of the head, not the manifold. Does that matter?

That totally matters. You want to sample the vacuum from one of the ports on the nose of the supercharger (ideally) for the actuator. I don't know what that pump does, but I assume it provides vacuum all the time.

[boldfin]

Thanks. (Learner here... with some basic knowledge of cars/mods but still have plenty of gaps when it comes to the 86/BRZ)

I think that pump on the autos does generate constant vacuum. I found some posts on here related to hooking up a boost gauge on a turbo'd auto, and tapping into the brake booster line didn't work. The gauge just read a constant boost level.

Sounds like you had the same thought I did - i.e. running a vacuum line from unused fitting on the nose of the supercharger. On manuals, that's where the brake booster hose is connected. But on autos, that fitting is plugged. Can anyone confirm that will work?

If that isn't a viable option, I'll probably just rig this up the traditional way.

[toast]

Originally Posted by boldfin

Thanks. (Learner here... with some basic knowledge of cars/mods but still have plenty of gaps when it comes to the 86/BRZ)

I think that pump on the autos does generate constant vacuum. I found some posts on here related to hooking up a boost gauge on a turbo'd auto, and tapping into the brake booster line didn't work. The gauge just read a constant boost level.

Sounds like you had the same thought I did - i.e. running a vacuum line from unused fitting on the nose of the supercharger. On manuals, that's where the brake booster hose is connected. But on autos, that fitting is plugged. Can anyone confirm that will work?

If that isn't a viable option, I'll probably just rig this up the traditional way.

Any of the three ports on the nose are sampling the vacuum upstream of the compressor. You can connect the actuator there, if there is a plug on the port just use the empty port and you don't have to worry about a tee. Then connect the map box to the normal port for the actuator in the back of the supercharger.

[boldfin]

Originally Posted by toast

Any of the three ports on the nose are sampling the vacuum upstream of the compressor. You can connect the actuator there, if there is a plug on the port just use the empty port and you don't have to worry about a tee. Then connect the map box to the normal port for the actuator in the back of the supercharger.

Yep - that's what I did, and it appears to be just the ticket. Very clean installation that way.

Thanks!

[bokehmon]

Just installed it temporarily (will buy the tee to try it BT style), and wow it makes a massive difference in drivability/throttle smoothness!

I've heard that superchargers feel like (bigger) NA motors - but it didn't really feel like that until this piece was installed!

edit: @B_T FYI the provided screw was a little too short (by about 5mm), but i was able just go to HD and grab one that was slightly longer to fit.

I'll be grabbing some hose and having the BPV run off the brake booster vac line.

[B T]

Alright, I've got 4 more of these RMAP things to unload. If you're interested, send me a PM. I don't foresee another round of manufacturing for these things due to the high CNC costs coming down the pipe. I already feel bad for selling at these high of prices. One of the four has some marring from being put into a vice to tap the NPT deeper. I'll let that one go at $20 off. Doesn't affect the functionality at all. If you want to custom paint or powder coat, this'll be the one for you.