Fuse mod adds horsepower?

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by g e

A serious note on changing to “designer” fuses:

Their electrical characteristics could differ from the ones spec’d by the engineers and not offer the protection the fuse is expected to provide. Ie- inrush current etc.

My Pass Labs audio equipment manual explicitly states the same. They will not provide warranty service on equipment with designer fuses.

There are people on sites like Audiogon and US Audio Mart that would call you every name in the book for doubting $200 Synergistic fuses. Mostly, they'll call you cheap or say you can't know if they work if you haven't bought them.

On YouTube if you look up Audio Science Review, Amir who is an engineer tested a $1500 Audioquest interconnect that actually measured poorly compared to cheap stuff.

Some "afficionados" will tell you measurements mean nothing since there are so many unmeasureable characteristics of sound that affect what you hear (bullshit) ! Oh, and how can you judge when you haven't owned.

I build my own power cables and interconnects. No need for Nordost Odin ointerconnects and Kubala Sosna speaker cables (ONLY $30,000 for a 10' pair). Scamerola!

[Takumidesh]

these fuses paired perfectly with my 00 gauge wire harness, the tuner said I made more horsepower than the dyno can handle.

[g e]

Originally Posted by wbradley

There are people on sites like Audiogon and US Audio Mart that would call you every name in the book for doubting $200 Synergistic fuses. Mostly, they'll call you cheap or say you can't know if they work if you haven't bought them.

On YouTube if you look up Audio Science Review, Amir who is an engineer tested a $1500 Audioquest interconnect that actually measured poorly compared to cheap stuff.

Some "afficionados" will tell you measurements mean nothing since there are so many unmeasureable characteristics of sound that affect what you hear (bullshit) ! Oh, and how can you judge when you haven't owned.

I build my own power cables and interconnects. No need for Nordost Odin ointerconnects and Kubala Sosna speaker cables (ONLY $30,000 for a 10' pair). Scamerola!

Cables make a difference for those who can hear it and have systems that can resolve tonality differences.

But what flabbergasts me is how a power cable can improve the sound. . It was not subtle when I put the Cardas Clear Beyonds on my Bryston 28 mono blocks.

I now have them on my preamp and phono preamp.

Too many audio wonks want to measure everything. One guy told me how I could take measurements so I’d know when my amps went from Class A to AB

No need for that I responded. I can hear when they do that. Never heard another peep out of him.

Yeah, audio is my serious hobby. Far more money in that than my BRZ.

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by g e

Cables make a difference for those who can hear it and have systems that can resolve tonality differences.

But what flabbergasts me is how a power cable can improve the sound. . It was not subtle when I put the Cardas Clear Beyonds on my Bryston 28 mono blocks.

I now have them on my preamp and phono preamp.

Too many audio wonks want to measure everything. One guy told me how I could take measurements so I’d know when my amps went from Class A to AB

No need for that I responded. I can hear when they do that. Never heard another peep out of him.

Yeah, audio is my serious hobby. Far more money in that than my BRZ.

Speaker cables act as "filters" as do some interconnects. But so does a graphic equalizer.
For me, I like my cable quality to be equal to the rest of my system. So, I use high quality connectors and UP-OCC cable where necessary. I won't fall prey to buying a cable because it "changes something". "Change" isn't necessarily "improvement", it just legitimizes snake oil marketing sometimes. People can spend their money however they see fit. But it takes a special type to market $50 worth of cable and connectors for thousands of dollars. Not my thing, I'd be ashamed to fall for expensive fuses, etc.

I did initially prove to myself that solid core speaker cable provided a slight uptiick in the upper frequencies by using thermostat cable from Home Depot. This was suggested to me by a nice guy on Canuck Audio Mart who happens to be a retired professor. I then purchased UP-OCC cable and braided it, terminated with low mass bananas using silver solder. They run to the HF input on my Totem Tribe towers, if you're familiar. I do hear a slight difference which suits my 57 year old ears. And it cost me time and a little money.

Incidentally, in the manual for the Schiit Freya preamp I am using it specifically says avoid fancy power cables, they are a waste of money. I still use quality brand name everything. Also balanced connections (XLR).

Personally, I am not willing to pay significant money for a power cable simply because I heard a "change" in the sound. That's for bored people with money to burn IMO.
We have the Toronto Audiofest this month. Time to see the most recent work from the late Dan d'Agostino and a lot of other crazy price is no object equipment. Maybe they will have the monster top end Wilsons on display.

I'm still into analog, in fact will be looking for another MC cart soon. Really want to try a Lyra but maybe not quite yet.

[PetrolioBenzina]

Tell me more about thermostat cable, please!

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by PetrolioBenzina

Tell me more about thermostat cable, please!

Sure, not to get off topic, but thermostat cable sold by the foot at Home Depot is thin gauge solid core cable as compared to most generic speaker cable, which is stranded. A longtime audiophile whose opinion I trust recommended that I could spend $20 to test if there is any brightening of the sound using solid core cables. So, I tried and there was a slight audible difference to my ears. Having proved that, I then purchased Neotech UP-OCC 22ga cable and braided it using 3 strands; two to the positive and one to return. This is more than ample for the HF terminals on my speakers which incidentally are a crossoverless design. Whether I am compensating for hearing loss due to my age or simply catering to my own taste stands to be seen. I use heavier gauge stranded Cardas cables for the LF drivers.

[radroach]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Speaker cables act as "filters" as do some interconnects. But so does a graphic equalizer.
For me, I like my cable quality to be equal to the rest of my system. So, I use high quality connectors and UP-OCC cable where necessary.

This makes sense because at the amplification stage small changes in resistance can have a noticeable impact on.. i guess the word is "response". The difference between a quality guitar cable and a cheap one, at 10+ft. length, a large difference between how "loud" the raw guitar sound comes out. Or in an old video game console's sound stage, a small change in resistor value will also change treble or bass response.

[radroach]

(please don't quote me this is a long post)

Does anybody remember the TRD stick-on aluminum tape that was supposed to reduce static buildup and improve lap times?

".. that + ions are released into the air from the + charged body. It seems that there is data that when it was actually attached to a place charged to 500V, it dropped to 150V. As a result, the air does not move away from the body, but flows cleanly along the body, stabilizing the movement of the car. In other words, the car fits neatly in the rails created by the air, making it difficult to move left and right and up and down. If the air separates from the body, the air rails will be distorted and the air will flow away from the car, creating an environment where the car is prone to rampage. Is it normal to run the course without any work on the Mini 4WD, and is it with aluminum tape to run with guide rollers at the four corners?

　The late model 86 has a resin steering column cover and aluminum tape on the side windows. Just sticking it on resin or glass is effective ... However, it is said that the late model 86 was not the first to use aluminum tape, and it was already set in Voxy & Noah, and even in Probox & Succeed. Actually, these cars were stuck inside the front and rear bumpers. That is the aluminum tape shaped like a hoe. The aluminum tape, which was created in collaboration with 3M, uses glue with excellent conductivity, and the shape like a hoe is thought to be easy to release + ions. It seems that the more sharp surfaces there are, the easier it is for + ions to be released."


https://car.watch.impress.co.jp/docs...n/1021904.html












For what it is, I'm interested to see how the experiment went, as seems they had grounds for testing static buildup effect on aerodynamics. I used to have a Toyota Camry with lots of plastic and resin parts and it would build a static charge every time I drove it and send me a shock every time I got out of the car, luckily the BRZ doesn't seem to have that problem.

[g e]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Speaker cables act as "filters" as do some interconnects. But so does a graphic equalizer.
For me, I like my cable quality to be equal to the rest of my system. So, I use high quality connectors and UP-OCC cable where necessary. I won't fall prey to buying a cable because it "changes something". "Change" isn't necessarily "improvement", it just legitimizes snake oil marketing sometimes. People can spend their money however they see fit. But it takes a special type to market $50 worth of cable and connectors for thousands of dollars. Not my thing, I'd be ashamed to fall for expensive fuses, etc.

I did initially prove to myself that solid core speaker cable provided a slight uptiick in the upper frequencies by using thermostat cable from Home Depot. This was suggested to me by a nice guy on Canuck Audio Mart who happens to be a retired professor. I then purchased UP-OCC cable and braided it, terminated with low mass bananas using silver solder. They run to the HF input on my Totem Tribe towers, if you're familiar. I do hear a slight difference which suits my 57 year old ears. And it cost me time and a little money.

Incidentally, in the manual for the Schiit Freya preamp I am using it specifically says avoid fancy power cables, they are a waste of money. I still use quality brand name everything. Also balanced connections (XLR).

Personally, I am not willing to pay significant money for a power cable simply because I heard a "change" in the sound. That's for bored people with money to burn IMO.
We have the Toronto Audiofest this month. Time to see the most recent work from the late Dan d'Agostino and a lot of other crazy price is no object equipment. Maybe they will have the monster top end Wilsons on display.

I'm still into analog, in fact will be looking for another MC cart soon. Really want to try a Lyra but maybe not quite yet.

Toronto is a nice town. It’s what Atlanta wishes it could be.

Bryston won’t be at the fest. Too bad since they are a major player in home and pro audio and a Canadian firm too.

I’ve been pursuing better sound for 55 years. Got a 9 transistor pocket radio and thought this is cool… but how to make it sound better? So I don’t change just for a different sound. It has to be better. I used to have all Morrow loom of cables. But his phono cable had a ridiculously high capacitance which is bad for a phono application. I asked him about it and his response- “ no one’s complained”

I got rid of the Morrow stuff and now have a complete loom of Black Cat Cables. The 32xx series. Got a nice improvement. All copper. The very high end illustrated the Morrows were slurred. The Cats very clean but not hard nor etched. The entire presentation gained a relaxed Grace but still gives detail like crazy. I know I’m on the right track because I can listen for 5-6 hours at a time and still not want to quit. No listener fatigue. Zero.

They are built locally with weaves of solid copper wire with the return signal wire insulated within a Teflon tube. I’ve seen the videos and it looks like he’s using old textile machinery to do it. So he’s not sourcing cable from China by the mile and putting pretty jackets on them. The owner/designer builder is coming over Saturday to hear my system. That will be lots of fun.

Btw, my phono is by Jim Hagerman in Hawaii. Got his old version Trumpet before he downsized and simplified them. Check out his interviews. He comes from an engineering background. Phono design is a hobby.

https://positive-feedback.com/Issue7..._interview.htm


https://www.stereophile.com/content/...LcsDFRR0ZeU.97

I suppose we should get back to car talk, hey?

[wbradley]

Hey, cool stuff g_e

I started with a Stereo Review subscription starting around 1978 or 79, when I was around 14.

A decade later my first apartment was packed with upper end Yamaha separates, moving coil cartridge and Yamaha DSP-1 sound field processor.

Reawakening to the hobby around Jan 2017. Bought over 1000 LPS since then and have flipped components multiple times. Stopped since the pandemic for the most part as I am sort of retired now.

My current system on a budget:

https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/view...user_id=112138

[radroach]

@wbradley we audio nerds have a lot of common ground. I'm into 1980's Yamaha FM synthesizers, notably things that start with DX, PSS and OPL. Also the Sega Genesis with its Yamaha chip. If you're looking into a amplification stage to improve with better components, the 1990's Sega is a great place to learn about how its done.

[PetrolioBenzina]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Sure, not to get off topic, but thermostat cable sold by the foot at Home Depot is thin gauge solid core cable as compared to most generic speaker cable, which is stranded. A longtime audiophile whose opinion I trust recommended that I could spend $20 to test if there is any brightening of the sound using solid core cables.

Thinking of trying Anticables speaker cables which are solid-core. Might try the thermostat wire just for a taste. Thanks!

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by PetrolioBenzina

Thinking of trying Anticables speaker cables which are solid-core. Might try the thermostat wire just for a taste. Thanks!

Keep in mind they contain 3 conductors per cable. I twist two together for the positive and use the third for return. Also, the gauge is fairly small, maybe 24 per conductor. So, they are suitable for lower powered amps with sensitive speakers or in my case connected to the HF speaker terminals and using heavier gauge stranded for the LF inputs. My amp is 150 W/ch and the speakers have 4 Ohm impedance.

Cheap experiment compliments of Dr David Niece.

Radioactive, I still use the pads from my early 90's Yamaha electronic drums for practice. Pitched the wiring and module since I'd never use it. Had Roland pro level VDrums for a number of years.

OP amps and stuff. Burson from NZ are known for theirs. I could swap the ones in my amp but can't be bothered. My previous stuff was all discreet.

[Ultramaroon]

Haha... Nobody wants to talk about static wicks.