Windows, Tranny, Clutch, Rattles

[Chalk]

Hi,

I'm posting this new thread as an update to my old thread where I received little help http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82327

Posting original issues with updates and dealer responses

2014 Fr-S Manual, Fogs, spoiler, and armrest only. ~13,000 miles
Been to the dealer 7+ times in ~8months ~14+ days at dealer

Completed Repairs: squeaky fuel pump (replaced), taillight condensation (replaced), and oil control valve (with check engine and everything, replaced)

Squeaks and rattles: Steering column vibrates nonstop louder than stereo and road/wind noise on course but regular asphalt highway pavement at 65mph, also happens on other surfaces but not with the same consistency.
Dealer: Couldn't replicate locally, too far to drive 15 miles to route where it always happens, try turning up the radio.
Rear deck creaks, cracks and pops when rear wheels are at different heights relative to chassis
Dealer: Chassis flex, can't do anything about it
Car returned to me
Rear seats immediatly began to make an incredible racket, sounded like a coffee tin full of rocks rolling down a hill, verified it was definitely the rear seats in the below sequence before the last step by driving with them down.
I first opened and closed, somewhat roughly, the rear seats, and when the issue continued, pounded them with my hand to make sure they were closed, and finally after the issue continued slammed the seats hard to ensure it was closed. The issue disappeared until the following day, now happening somewhat less frequently. I should never have to shut anything in a new car half that hard, and probably nothing in an old car that hard either.
Dash/passenger A pillar rattle/vibration now happening a couple times per drive, probably wouldn't be very noticeable with the radio on, but much louder than the A/C
Trunk/rear passenger area noise probably part of the rear deck noise, similar sounds but happening all the time while driving, previously the seats had to be down to hear this sound at all
Squeal outside of car With the car cold I was hearing a screech, much like old brakes, anytime the load on the engine changed, especially while shifting or turning, but also in a straight line. Not sure if this should be in the clutch section below

Windows: brought in for multiple times, oiled and "fixed" started out as squeaking, now is clicking and grinding on roll up and some on down. Last time they said the windows were just dirty, and that I needed to clean them, later that night (yesterday) after they "fixed" it the issue was back full force clicking and grinding, cleaned windows the day before returning car to the dealer again.
Dealer: Verified issue, took apart, everything tight, nothing to replace, reassembled and issue gone
Funny that the paperwork says that they couldn't verify, and the issue is still there

Transmission: Originally began to be locked out of gears and grinding issues at 7-8k miles, after dealer said it was normal to have rough shifts and be locked out of gears I did the no limit motorsport tranny and diff change with Motul 300 gear oil as recommended by many. Lower than average metal shavings in tranny, average sludge in diff, thoroughly cleaned, everything done to spec.

Issues all but disappeared for ~3000 miles now am experiencing the same, but somewhat lower level of the issues. Locking out of first at slow roll 2-4mph when for example entering steep parking lots where clutch would have to be slipped in second for an extended period due to poor local setup, ending up stuck in oncoming traffic trying to get into gear. Often when rolling up to stop signs I get a clicking banging sound and feel with clutch fully depressed almost like I'm punching through multiple sheets of tin foil to shift into first while braking and clutch depressed. Shifts rarely buttery smooth and mostly rough grinding and smacking going into gear, esp. third. with dealer tech in the car loud smack inside and outside of car going into second, other issues not present until I went to leave dealer, and after going from r to 1 at complete stop it took three tries to get into first. Often locked out of R and 1 at dead stops, and sometimes other gears while driving, previously it was only 1-3 that has issues, now R and 4 are involved.
Dealer: Called toyota, unknown issue, started a case file, Toyota suggests it's the driver, none of techs could replicate
Interestingly I've barely had issues with this in the two days since receiving the car back, maybe they changed something and didn't tell me? Also haven't been driving as much, and not at night though the issue was present at all hours.

Clutch: two weeks ago, the night of receiving the car back from OCV replacement, began making a hollow popping outside of car in the last 1-2 inch of pedal travel, first two times after being parked for the 30 minutes off, third time after having been parked less than 5 mins on after 30-45 min drive and was accompanied by a grinding feeling in pedal in that last inch. Issue has continued with grinding ever since, every time the car is warm.
Dealer: Clutch switch engaging, it's a subaru thing, it's normal for this car Except the only documented issue I can find is a whining sound for mostly cold Subaru Impreza WRXs often when engaging, not disengaging, the clutch, why would a switch make a hollow popping noise repeatedly slowly growing quieter while the pedal is held fully depressed(disengaged)?

Idle: Car oftentimes, both day and night, not sure if with the A/C off but I suspect so and definitely whether A/C cold or heater running, will instead of idling at ~650 drop to 500-400rpm begin to stall, shudder the entire vehicle sometimes violently, then shoot up to 700-1000 rpm every 2-10 seconds. Interrupting this cycle with a little throttle, and at least once by turning off the A/C seems to stop it, issue has happened when car is started warm, and immediately after parking the car.
Dealer: Alternator clutch or compressor, normal, could not replicate

Dealer has shined me on, told me they did work they didn't, and generally been asshats on many occasions so far. I'm worried they're going to screw me into a thirty thousand dollar brick that I worked my butt off 55 hours a week at a job I hated where my rights were regularly violated age 19-20 to afford.

Looking for some on the real advice here, I'm losing my mind over this car, and the worst part is that I don't think there is another car closer to what I want new or old under 60k, still, leaning towards trying to lemon law the car.

-Chalk

[JB86'd]

Find a new dealer. Take drives with techs to verify problems. Profit.

Or escalate to higher up and put some pressure on them to take you seiously and stop jerking you around.

Sounds like your throwout bearing may be bad, and you need a more recent ECU flash version to take care of the idle issue.

[Chalk]

Originally Posted by JB86'd

Find a new dealer. Take drives with techs to verify problems. Profit.

Or escalate to higher up and put some pressure on them to take you seiously and stop jerking you around.

Sounds like your throwout bearing may be bad, and you need a more recent ECU flash version to take care of the idle issue.

So you think I'm better off continuing to push them to fix it instead of just getting my money back and moving on?

The one time I did drive a tech around they only wanted to go to the streets directly around the dealership where they knew it wouldn't happen. I can't really kidnap the tech without causing myself more trouble. They did get the head of the service dep. involved but to no avail.

I forgot to put in that the service advisor said the ECU already had the most recent flash, and do you think if it is the throwout bearing that it could have been causing my issues all along?


P.S. if you know how to thank people on here that would help too, I don't have any idea how that function works or I'd push it your way *edit* it just popped up the button when I replied to you, now I get it lol

[JB86'd]

I think if your throwout bearing is failing it could be causing those grinding issues for sure. Not sure about the idle issues. I think you should get someone even higher up involved. There's a few people on this forum who have escalated things to a regional rep etc., and if I remember correctly had good results. I wouldn't give up on the car or the platform for that matter.

[Chalk]

Originally Posted by JB86'd

I think if your throwout bearing is failing it could be causing those grinding issues for sure. Not sure about the idle issues. I think you should get someone even higher up involved. There's a few people on this forum who have escalated things to a regional rep etc., and if I remember correctly had good results. I wouldn't give up on the car or the platform for that matter.

Thanks! I'll look into how I can get a hold of someone up the chain

[arobb10]

And I thought I was the only one having a ton of issues like this.. hopefully everything works out for you. I work for an auto group that has a Toyota dealership and I complained about the shifting and they said they couldn't replicate.. there are a ton of other issues I've experienced like your that I haven't even bothered taking it in for because they don't occur every time. I try so hard to love this car, but it really makes it difficult. Latest is nasty screech from back brakes, lock out of 5th gear and the windows randomly not wanting to go down/up. There is only 5,500 miles on the car.. I feel your pain

[Chalk]

Originally Posted by arobb10

And I thought I was the only one having a ton of issues like this.. hopefully everything works out for you. I work for an auto group that has a Toyota dealership and I complained about the shifting and they said they couldn't replicate.. there are a ton of other issues I've experienced like your that I haven't even bothered taking it in for because they don't occur every time. I try so hard to love this car, but it really makes it difficult. Latest is nasty screech from back brakes, lock out of 5th gear and the windows randomly not wanting to go down/up. There is only 5,500 miles on the car.. I feel your pain

Sorry to hear that man, it sounds like you have it even worse than I do. I'm really surprised an auto group you work for would be dishing out the same kind of trouble my dealership has, that's a really mean deal.

If I was getting more help on here I would probably suggest posting up your full issues too, but the most useful, and don't get me wrong, extremely appreciated, response in either thread was from JB86'd and it covered only a portion of it.

I really love this car, and I know I'm not going to be satisfied with anything else, the closest I can come while meeting my needs would be an RX-8 with a forced induction FA20D swap, but that would likely just open up the same can of worms I'm dealing with now. Unless I get some more help here it's probably going to go to one more dealer, and if that doesn't fix it then I think I'm done...besides it's developing a new rattle every day now.

Maybe a flat out no option base model 2014 impreza wrx..consumer reports has it at good reliability, then again, they also thought this car was going to be reliable, now it has their worst rating.

[Packofcrows]

Originally Posted by Chalk

Hi,

I'm posting this new thread as an update to my old thread where I received little help http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82327

Posting original issues with updates and dealer responses

2014 Fr-S Manual, Fogs, spoiler, and armrest only. ~13,000 miles
Been to the dealer 7+ times in ~8months ~14+ days at dealer

Completed Repairs: squeaky fuel pump (replaced), taillight condensation (replaced), and oil control valve (with check engine and everything, replaced)

Squeaks and rattles: Steering column vibrates nonstop louder than stereo and road/wind noise on course but regular asphalt highway pavement at 65mph, also happens on other surfaces but not with the same consistency.
Dealer: Couldn't replicate locally, too far to drive 15 miles to route where it always happens, try turning up the radio.
Rear deck creaks, cracks and pops when rear wheels are at different heights relative to chassis
Dealer: Chassis flex, can't do anything about it
Car returned to me
Rear seats immediatly began to make an incredible racket, sounded like a coffee tin full of rocks rolling down a hill, verified it was definitely the rear seats in the below sequence before the last step by driving with them down.
I first opened and closed, somewhat roughly, the rear seats, and when the issue continued, pounded them with my hand to make sure they were closed, and finally after the issue continued slammed the seats hard to ensure it was closed. The issue disappeared until the following day, now happening somewhat less frequently. I should never have to shut anything in a new car half that hard, and probably nothing in an old car that hard either.
Dash/passenger A pillar rattle/vibration now happening a couple times per drive, probably wouldn't be very noticeable with the radio on, but much louder than the A/C
Trunk/rear passenger area noise probably part of the rear deck noise, similar sounds but happening all the time while driving, previously the seats had to be down to hear this sound at all
Squeal outside of car With the car cold I was hearing a screech, much like old brakes, anytime the load on the engine changed, especially while shifting or turning, but also in a straight line. Not sure if this should be in the clutch section below

Windows: brought in for multiple times, oiled and "fixed" started out as squeaking, now is clicking and grinding on roll up and some on down. Last time they said the windows were just dirty, and that I needed to clean them, later that night (yesterday) after they "fixed" it the issue was back full force clicking and grinding, cleaned windows the day before returning car to the dealer again.
Dealer: Verified issue, took apart, everything tight, nothing to replace, reassembled and issue gone
Funny that the paperwork says that they couldn't verify, and the issue is still there

Transmission: Originally began to be locked out of gears and grinding issues at 7-8k miles, after dealer said it was normal to have rough shifts and be locked out of gears I did the no limit motorsport tranny and diff change with Motul 300 gear oil as recommended by many. Lower than average metal shavings in tranny, average sludge in diff, thoroughly cleaned, everything done to spec.

Issues all but disappeared for ~3000 miles now am experiencing the same, but somewhat lower level of the issues. Locking out of first at slow roll 2-4mph when for example entering steep parking lots where clutch would have to be slipped in second for an extended period due to poor local setup, ending up stuck in oncoming traffic trying to get into gear. Often when rolling up to stop signs I get a clicking banging sound and feel with clutch fully depressed almost like I'm punching through multiple sheets of tin foil to shift into first while braking and clutch depressed. Shifts rarely buttery smooth and mostly rough grinding and smacking going into gear, esp. third. with dealer tech in the car loud smack inside and outside of car going into second, other issues not present until I went to leave dealer, and after going from r to 1 at complete stop it took three tries to get into first. Often locked out of R and 1 at dead stops, and sometimes other gears while driving, previously it was only 1-3 that has issues, now R and 4 are involved.
Dealer: Called toyota, unknown issue, started a case file, Toyota suggests it's the driver, none of techs could replicate
Interestingly I've barely had issues with this in the two days since receiving the car back, maybe they changed something and didn't tell me? Also haven't been driving as much, and not at night though the issue was present at all hours.

Clutch: two weeks ago, the night of receiving the car back from OCV replacement, began making a hollow popping outside of car in the last 1-2 inch of pedal travel, first two times after being parked for the 30 minutes off, third time after having been parked less than 5 mins on after 30-45 min drive and was accompanied by a grinding feeling in pedal in that last inch. Issue has continued with grinding ever since, every time the car is warm.
Dealer: Clutch switch engaging, it's a subaru thing, it's normal for this car Except the only documented issue I can find is a whining sound for mostly cold Subaru Impreza WRXs often when engaging, not disengaging, the clutch, why would a switch make a hollow popping noise repeatedly slowly growing quieter while the pedal is held fully depressed(disengaged)?

Idle: Car oftentimes, both day and night, not sure if with the A/C off but I suspect so and definitely whether A/C cold or heater running, will instead of idling at ~650 drop to 500-400rpm begin to stall, shudder the entire vehicle sometimes violently, then shoot up to 700-1000 rpm every 2-10 seconds. Interrupting this cycle with a little throttle, and at least once by turning off the A/C seems to stop it, issue has happened when car is started warm, and immediately after parking the car.
Dealer: Alternator clutch or compressor, normal, could not replicate

Dealer has shined me on, told me they did work they didn't, and generally been asshats on many occasions so far. I'm worried they're going to screw me into a thirty thousand dollar brick that I worked my butt off 55 hours a week at a job I hated where my rights were regularly violated age 19-20 to afford.

Looking for some on the real advice here, I'm losing my mind over this car, and the worst part is that I don't think there is another car closer to what I want new or old under 60k, still, leaning towards trying to lemon law the car.

-Chalk

Bump and sorry for zombie...

Curious if anything was fixed op?