Tie rod ball joint stuck

[Killianti]

I'm trying to replace my tie rod ends using thw Whiteline bump steer and roll center correction kit, but I can't get the ball joint on the end of the driver-side tie rod to separate from the hub assembly. I removed the cotter pin and castle nut, but nothing I do seems to move the ball joint. Am I being stupid or missing something?

[Fishbone]

Put the castle nut on an try hitting it with a hammer. . Be careful not to damage the treads. Make sure the tie rod is flush with the nut to ensure maximum thread engagement.

[Killianti]

Originally Posted by Fishbone

Put the castle nut on an try hitting it with a hammer. . Be careful not to damage the treads. Make sure the tie rod is flush with the nut to ensure maximum thread engagement.

This doesn't seem to help at all. I mean, there is no movement between the ball joint and the hub. Do I just need to hit it harder or something? I put a block of wood between the ball joint and the hammer, and i'm mostly just putting dents in the wood.

[Shankenstein]

Originally Posted by Killianti

This doesn't seem to help at all. I mean, there is no movement between the ball joint and the hub. Do I just need to hit it harder or something? I put a block of wood between the ball joint and the hammer, and i'm mostly just putting dents in the wood.

You've probably tried it already... but try wanging in shear.

For stuck ball joints, here's my strategy:

1. Spray the top of the threads with plenty of PB Blaster (or WD40 in a pinch).
2. Wait a while.
3. Wipe down the exposed surfaces.
4. Use a hammer (and a large steel punch, if helpful) to sharply hit the steering knuckle in the fore-aft and lateral directions.
5. Use @Fishbone 's method to push the ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
6. If that failed... I'd break out the pickle fork and use a small sledge (this kills the crab).

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

You've probably tried it already... but try wanging in shear.

For stuck ball joints, here's my strategy:

1. Spray the top of the threads with plenty of PB Blaster (or WD40 in a pinch).
2. Wait a while.
3. Wipe down the exposed surfaces.
4. Use a hammer (and a large steel punch, if helpful) to sharply hit the steering knuckle in the fore-aft and lateral directions. Sometimes I resort to an air hammer. I don't use a lot of pressure, though.
5. Use @Fishbone 's method to push the ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
6. If that failed... I'd break out the pickle fork and use a small sledge (this kills the crab).

In bold.

[Fishbone]

Originally Posted by Killianti

This doesn't seem to help at all. I mean, there is no movement between the ball joint and the hub. Do I just need to hit it harder or something? I put a block of wood between the ball joint and the hammer, and i'm mostly just putting dents in the wood.

Using a piece of wood reduces the effectiveness of the hammer blows. Hitting the nut will not damage anything.

If that still does not work, use a jack to raise the hub and hit the nut again. Its possible the dropping suspension on jack stands in binding the tie rod in the knuckle.

[ryoma]

buy a ball joint puller tool. you can buy one at harbor freight or amazon for like 10 bucks. it's a U-shaped tool with a threaded bolt in the middle (use a wrench to turn the bolt) and it applies pressure to push the other end out. make sure you buy the right size though so that the tool has leverage. I haven't changed anything suspension-wise on my BRZ, but it made everything so much easier on my MR2 when I replaced the ball joints and tie rods.

[DieselDog]

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

You've probably tried it already... but try wanging in shear.

For stuck ball joints, here's my strategy:

1. Spray the top of the threads with plenty of PB Blaster (or WD40 in a pinch).
2. Wait a while.
3. Wipe down the exposed surfaces.
   
4. Use a hammer (and a large steel punch, if helpful) to sharply hit the steering knuckle in the fore-aft and lateral directions.
5. Use @Fishbone 's method to push the ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
6. If that failed... I'd break out the pickle fork and use a small sledge (this kills the crab).

I like to put the castle nut on upside down if I feel I need to hit it but usually when you hit the knuckle where the tie rod end goes into it usually just falls out.

70% of the time. lol

[Killianti]

I'll get back on it tomorrow morning, but the whole thing feels like it's welded together. It's probably not safe to take a torch to it right next to that dust boot. It and a few nuts are soaking up PB Blaster tonight.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Killianti

I'll get back on it tomorrow morning, but the whole thing feels like it's welded together. It's probably not safe to take a torch to it right next to that dust boot. It and a few nuts are soaking up PB Blaster tonight.

Ball Joint Separators Choose your poison. I've always used pickle forks but the hinged tool might work. It's a tapered pin in the hole and they do lock together just shy of being welded. I've had to beat the shit out of bigger ones to get them apart.

[Killianti]

I was able to get it out using a too-small, clamp-style ball joint separator and a hammer to keep it in place. Thanks for all the help.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Killianti

I was able to get it out using a too-small, clamp-style ball joint separator and a hammer to keep it in place. Thanks for all the help.

It was a bitch, wasn't it?

[Uncle Benz]

For future reference, I often find the success of a hammer is usually down to the size chosen and the anger behind it. Tickling it with a toffee-hammer seldom results in much.

[dem00n]

Originally Posted by Killianti

I was able to get it out using a too-small, clamp-style ball joint separator and a hammer to keep it in place. Thanks for all the help.

Did the whiteline balljoints stay in after installation?

The biggest issue with removing the tie rod is removing other parts first, some people will remove the strut housing from the steering knuckle, it's best to keep that all in place and remove the tie rod first.