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Old 11-20-2014, 12:49 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Shutter View Post
if you gave them the 3062aa111 number, they probably gave you the "wrong" slave. IE, the fitting on it faces a slightly different way. Still fits though, but the line could have extra stress on it since it points the banjo fitting further away.

I installed mine last night, everything went on just fine. Since I'm running the "wrong" one, I might remove the bracket between the hardline and the rubber line and bend the metal hardline so its a little closer to the slave. Or just replace the whole line entirely with an aftermarket one.
I did @37's solution. It's not going anywhere. Recommend doing that so you're not tweaking the hose. No need to bend anything.

Originally when he and I were discussing braided or otherwise stiffer lines, I kinda thumbed my nose at the idea thinking "great for brakes, meh for the clutch." I've come around a bit. It certainly can't hurt.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:46 PM   #30
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Just did this today clutch feels much better, can confirm that the slave cylinder I purchased fits great (from autozone).

Followed the DIY with caution, everything turned out good.

Shifting is much more fluid, downshifts & upshifts are smoother! Thanks @Ultramaroon , learned a thing or two
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:00 PM   #31
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Just did this today clutch feels much better, can confirm that the slave cylinder I purchased fits great (from autozone).

Followed the DIY with caution, everything turned out good.

Shifting is much more fluid, downshifts & upshifts are smoother! Thanks @Ultramaroon , learned a thing or two
Congrats, man! Just in time for the Thanksgiving road trip!

Would you add or change anything in the instructions? Anything I could clarify?
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:12 PM   #32
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Congrats, man! Just in time for the Thanksgiving road trip!

Would you add or change anything in the instructions? Anything I could clarify?
Let's see...

Well I didn't really need to use a bungie cord to hold the hose, I just routed it so it wouldn't move & was sitting vertically.

For whatever reason the two bolts mounting the slave to the bracket...those were a friggin bitch to get off, I used a 3/8 drive & I could have used more leverage.

I would add approximately how many pumps it took to bleed the cylinder, only took me like 3-5.
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:22 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Phantobe View Post
Let's see...

Well I didn't really need to use a bungie cord to hold the hose, I just routed it so it wouldn't move & was sitting vertically.

For whatever reason the two bolts mounting the slave to the bracket...those were a friggin bitch to get off, I used a 3/8 drive & I could have used more leverage.

I would add approximately how many pumps it took to bleed the cylinder, only took me like 3-5.
how much stiffer you reckon it became? slightly worried as I have already removed my clutch spring. Also is there now a definitive touch point that can be felt through the pedal?

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:37 AM   #34
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how much stiffer you reckon it became? slightly worried as I have already removed my clutch spring. Also is there now a definitive touch point that can be felt through the pedal?

Thanks in advance
A good amount stiffer. If you have this mod plus the spring removed it's gonna feel very stiff.

The touch point is more definitive than the squishy feeling oem clutch.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:28 PM   #35
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Finally feels like a proper clutch after doing this. After a year and a half I can finally forget about the clutch and driving smooth in traffic is now easy. I adjusted the pedal level with the brake pedal and reinstalled the return spring.
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Old 12-07-2014, 04:35 AM   #36
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I've done the return spring removal and pedal adjustment slightly above the brake pedal, and although it's soo much better now, I've gotten used to it and the clutch feels mushy again. I'm considering doing this but I've never bled a clutch or brakes before, and I'm a little apprehensive about messing something up. Are there any potential problems the change in diameter/stiffness could cause to the clutch system?
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:13 PM   #37
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I've done the return spring removal and pedal adjustment slightly above the brake pedal, and although it's soo much better now, I've gotten used to it and the clutch feels mushy again. I'm considering doing this but I've never bled a clutch or brakes before, and I'm a little apprehensive about messing something up. Are there any potential problems the change in diameter/stiffness could cause to the clutch system?
Clutch pedal rebound force increases by only 17%. This is a marginal decrease in leverage but is just enough to restore that "feel."

There are no inherent problems with this change. The only possible issues would result from errors in performing the procedure.

1. Contamination of the hydraulic system. Cleanliness is key.

2. Air in the system from incomplete bleeding or by draining the reservoir. Follow the procedure carefully.
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Old 12-08-2014, 11:11 AM   #38
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I did this operation a few weeks ago, and wanted to hold off before giving my report. The install itself was simple and Ultra's details, including the rag around the hose etc are important!

Clutch & tranny Set-up:

- Stock clutch & flywheel
- Clutch engagement screw adjusted, pedal slightly lower than brake pedal (I know, such empirical and accurate measurement)
- Motul 300 tranny fluid (not the best cold, but once warmed up is predictable and smooth- well documented so I won't go much into it)
- Return spring in
- Whiteline Transmission insert
- Perrin rear shifter bushing
- Mtec springs

I added this clutch slave cylinder after the aforementioned mods. Overall, it ties the whole package together imo. The clutch pedal adjustment attempted to set the overall clutch characteristics more akin to what many of us are used to; the whiteline tranny insert (as well as diff+subframe bushing kit) tightened up the drivetrain; the mtec springs and Perrin rear shifter bushing helped with providing more positive and engaged shifts. But this mod has been one of the best $50 I could have spent on the whole driveline experience. Clutch pedal is springy, yet not taxing. Even in heavy stop-and-go (I'm talking about Seattle bridge at rush hour stop and go), the engagement point makes itself known each and every time, with crisp biting points and little vague-ness about it all.

I used the OEM subaru slave cylinder detailed in earlier posts and some crush washers. I commute 100 miles a day and have really enjoyed being able to listen to music and still find the engagement point as easy as in my old WRX.

10/10 old chap!

Last edited by Koa; 12-09-2014 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:09 AM   #39
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You the man, Ultra. Trying this during the weekend. Parts just came in

Thanks for the help earlier last week as well
So, how is it?

Edit: I see#38 now.

Last edited by GT86_PRAGUE; 12-09-2014 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:16 AM   #40
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Quote:
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So, how is it?
His post about his reaction to the mod is literally the one right above yours, haha

Just bought the parts for this yesterday, but my car is off the road for the winter so I won't know the feeling until next Spring.

Thanks for the write-up @Ultramaroon
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:47 AM   #41
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His post about his reaction to the mod is literally the one right above yours, haha

Just bought the parts for this yesterday, but my car is off the road for the winter so I won't know the feeling until next Spring.

Thanks for the write-up @Ultramaroon

I didnt read whole thread obviously :-)
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Old 12-09-2014, 04:12 PM   #42
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I didnt read whole thread obviously :-)
You should <ahem> Czech it out!
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