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Old 08-19-2013, 11:09 AM   #15
Richard Cranium
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Big box improvement stores sell one-time-use dehumidifying tubs...you take the lid off, set it in the room and walk away. Park it in the sun, windows closed and set a tub on the floor in front of each seat and you'll be fine.

Personal experience in this...before the FRS, I had a 2nd Gen Tacoma (which were notoriously less waterproof than 1st Gen's). I had anywhere from 1-5 inches of water in the cab several times over the years from creek/water crossings on trails. I pulled the all the interior carpet out a couple times and vac'd and sun dried, but for the effort that it took, it was just as effective and endlessly less time consuming to deploy 4 dehumidifying tubs between the front at back seats. YMMV, but I'd start here.

http://www.damprid.com/
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:48 AM   #16
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Call your insurance and get the car totalled it willbe better for you in the long run.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:59 PM   #17
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Call your insurance and get the car totalled it willbe better for you in the long run.
I think the water has to reach the steering wheel in order to total it.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:21 PM   #18
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If you don't have a dehumidifier at home, ask around some detailer shops if they have a dehumidifier, many of them do interior detailing service and use an ionizer - some of them may as well have a dehumidifier.

Also yeah a bunch those 12oz "No Damp" dehumidifier tubs they sell in home improvement store sections work very well.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Richard Cranium View Post
Big box improvement stores sell one-time-use dehumidifying tubs...you take the lid off, set it in the room and walk away. Park it in the sun, windows closed and set a tub on the floor in front of each seat and you'll be fine.

Personal experience in this...before the FRS, I had a 2nd Gen Tacoma (which were notoriously less waterproof than 1st Gen's). I had anywhere from 1-5 inches of water in the cab several times over the years from creek/water crossings on trails. I pulled the all the interior carpet out a couple times and vac'd and sun dried, but for the effort that it took, it was just as effective and endlessly less time consuming to deploy 4 dehumidifying tubs between the front at back seats. YMMV, but I'd start here.

http://www.damprid.com/
I'll second the Damp-rid - it's good stuff.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:24 AM   #20
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I think the water has to reach the steering wheel in order to total it.

Nope it all depends on what key components were damaged. ECU, Airbag computer, engine, diff, airbags, seat belt pretensioners, etc.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:43 PM   #21
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Thanks for the help guys. I just got the car back after a few weeks in the shop under insurance. They cleaned all of the carpets and seats, and replaced the clutch assembly. I'm going to go ahead and do a precautionary oil change as well, but other than a slight musty smell (which has mostly gone away) it is back to normal!

Here are some before pictures, the drivers seat is pulled out and you can see the whole inside of the car is still wet:
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After!
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:49 PM   #22
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Calling in the insurance company will possibly put it on the CarFax. Just something to think about when it's time to trade or re-sell. It will likely diminish the value.

Tough decision as you may not have electrical problems now but if some wiring, connectors, sensors or relays were flooded you may have corrosion issues later on. The ones that expect to see water in normal driving situations will be sealed from damage but the rest might not be. I'd be real thorough in assessing the water level vs. all the car's electrical components and wiring then come up with a determination of the direction to take.

IMO, the carpets are the least of the problems. They can easily be replaced.
So he should be dishonest to a potential future buyer about flood damage? smh
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:24 PM   #23
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That car should be considered a total loss, no question. Get a lawyer, have them submit a demand letter to the insurance company that appears to be evading responsibility, cc: your state insurance commissioner.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:00 PM   #24
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That car should be considered a total loss, no question. Get a lawyer, have them submit a demand letter to the insurance company that appears to be evading responsibility, cc: your state insurance commissioner.
For a while I wasn't sure if they would declare it totaled or not. I'm glad they didn't because I would have lost much more money in depreciation (it's a brand new car). As it is, the car was fully repaired and I only had to pay my deductible.

I'm a little worried about electrical problems so I'm considering going through the car and putting silicone grease inside the connectors, but otherwise there isn't much to worry about. The car is still under full factory warranty.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:53 PM   #25
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For a while I wasn't sure if they would declare it totaled or not. I'm glad they didn't because I would have lost much more money in depreciation (it's a brand new car). As it is, the car was fully repaired and I only had to pay my deductible.

I'm a little worried about electrical problems so I'm considering going through the car and putting silicone grease inside the connectors, but otherwise there isn't much to worry about. The car is still under full factory warranty.
If you think you'd lose depreciation now, wait until you attempt to sell or trade the car.

For perspective, my first corporate job for a major auto manufacturer involved the inspection of hundreds of new cars and trucks for possible flood damage. After days of training by the insurance company whose interest was to repair cars, not total them, my staff totaled hundreds of cars over a several week period including some that had been retailed and were in use by customers. One of the main criteria to determine total loss was water entry into the cabin over the level of the seat belt anchor points. It sounds like your car had even more.

It may take 5-10 years, but problems will arise. I can't believe your insurance carrier is exposing themselves to this type of potential liability. Did they certify in writing that you won't have a branded title and the full factory warranty will remain in effect?

Like I said, consult an attorney and I'd add an independent certified diminished value appraiser licensed in your state and pay the ~$200 for a written report.

This isn't legal advice, I'm not an attorney, but was directly involved in a situation like yours. Good luck!
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:06 PM   #26
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Glad you got your car back, dry and driveable!

However, I'm surprised that nobody suggested packing the car in rice for a couple days
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:10 PM   #27
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If you think you'd lose depreciation now, wait until you attempt to sell or trade the car.

For perspective, my first corporate job for a major auto manufacturer involved the inspection of hundreds of new cars and trucks for possible flood damage. After days of training by the insurance company whose interest was to repair cars, not total them, my staff totaled hundreds of cars over a several week period including some that had been retailed and were in use by customers. One of the main criteria to determine total loss was water entry into the cabin over the level of the seat belt anchor points. It sounds like your car had even more.

It may take 5-10 years, but problems will arise. I can't believe your insurance carrier is exposing themselves to this type of potential liability. Did they certify in writing that you won't have a branded title and the full factory warranty will remain in effect?

Like I said, consult an attorney and I'd add an independent certified diminished value appraiser licensed in your state and pay the ~$200 for a written report.

This isn't legal advice, I'm not an attorney, but was directly involved in a situation like yours. Good luck!

Sounds like good advice. The reality is that your car is working now, but there most likely will be electrical gremlins in the future. Do your research 1st and only consider an attorney as a last resort. Sounds like you may have been better off if they totaled the car.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:28 PM   #28
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Im late to the party but here is what i would havevsaid

Disconnect battery ASAP

Open air box, spray with mass air sensor cleaner
Leave open to air dry
Put a rag so no debris or insects crawl into intake

Fill two bottles of dry gas (methanol) to our tank, if water got in there you need I drain it, you can get most fuel out by disconnect lines to injectors and run pump, fill full with fresh fuel if needed and repeat till you have old fuel out if it is contaminated

If there is water in spark plug holes, let that dry, it's okay to leave a fan on top of motor or a few days running in sun

Don't try to start it till pure sure it's dry!!! Patience is your friend

Drain and fill with fresh oil too if n doubt.

Ensure the o2 sensors are dry

Start it and pray?
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