KPower Industries K24 swap

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Is the grey chassis harness clip not used? This black plug on the new harness is just floating there, right?

Correct. The grey plug you’ll use for flex fuel when ready though.

[ML]

@Irace86.2.0 the black thing is a junction box not a plug

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by MST Engineer

Let me know what they say. I have been struggling to get my car started all weekend and found that MAP sensor, oil temp and pressure voltages showing in Haltech make no sence. Also found that no spark on CYL1 with known good coil and plug. I will be calling them tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk

So I got a response last night confirming the B6 pin was supposed to be in the B4 place of the Haltech pigtail. Switching them was easy and now I have coolant temp. I also now am getting oil temp so not sure what to make of that. My map sensor readings are still weird running -78 kpa at idle and then around -30 on throttle. My only guess is the calibration doesn’t match my sensor?

I’ve also got rubbing from the header, trans I think is still touching under load and my valve cover is touching the hood.

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

So I got a response last night confirming the B6 pin was supposed to be in the B4 place of the Haltech pigtail. Switching them was easy and now I have coolant temp. I also now am getting oil temp so not sure what to make of that. My map sensor readings are still weird running -78 kpa at idle and then around -30 on throttle. My only guess is the calibration doesn’t match my sensor?

I’ve also got rubbing from the header, trans I think is still touching under load and my valve cover is touching the hood.

is it a stock MAP? Possible to swap a known good one and see if the sensor is bad?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

is it a stock MAP? Possible to swap a known good one and see if the sensor is bad?

Stock sensor. I have another one that broke on me when I was pulling it from the donor car. Bought a used one that matches part numbers to what I broke but maybe it's bad? The car runs decent oddly enough with the readings I'm seeing. That's what makes me think the calibration isn't correct.

[captain awesome]

So here's the harness B connector. The pin from 6 needed to be moved to 4. Luckily the connector is super easy to unpin. Push the larger white bar inward and then you can pull any connector or insert. Then push the two white tabs back in to lock them.





Then there's hood clearance. I need it. Looks like the structure bonded to the hood has let go. I think this is just enough space to allow the valve cover to make sweet love to it. I didn't measure but somewhere around a 1/4" or more gap between the hood and the structure where it's no longer bonded.












Test ride was short and revealed my header is touching the area that required hammering. Also seems like the trans is still too close. I plan to move the engine and trans closer to the driver side a little in hopes that will help. May pull the header and get to hammering again. Thermostat wouldn't open last night so still might have air trapped. I'll probably open up the the thermostat are and see if I put it in upside down or if drilling some bleed holes will help.

[captain awesome]

Can anyone confirm what part number MAP sensor they are using that is reading correctly with the Kpower base map on the Haltech? I have a USDM k24a2 so I purchased part number 37830-PNC-003 to replace it. I checked to see what else this fits and previous years TSX are part number 37830-PGK-A01. Could be nothing, could be something.



I haven't been able to confirm if there is much really different between them but wondering if maybe that's my MAP sensor calibration issue?

[ML]

I have a ktuned 4bar that I had to adjust but it’s working. Motor ran for the first time today and I’m having accelerator pedal wiring issues. And also the clutch I got is not working for some reason it’s not engaging.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

I have a ktuned 4bar that I had to adjust but it’s working. Motor ran for the first time today and I’m having accelerator pedal wiring issues. And also the clutch I got is not working for some reason it’s not engaging.

I had a lot of gremlins/DTCs with the throttle body when chasing the alternator problem. You probably have already checked but make sure you are getting good voltage.

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I had a lot of gremlins/DTCs with the throttle body when chasing the alternator problem. You probably have already checked but make sure you are getting good voltage.

good point as I have not figured out the wiring for the alternator. Not sure what the pins are on the back of the thing.

[captain awesome]

Still having issues with my MAP sensor. Hoping my buddy has the earlier version I can test otherwise I'll have to wait and see. I sent some follow up emails to John to see if maybe there is another issue with my harness but I think it's correct. Good news is it runs fine with the current setup, just not sure why that's the case.


Also looks like after cracking the cap on the coolant and topping it off one last time the thermostat is opening just fine again. I didn't bother trying to burp it again so I was surprised the lower hose was getting hot fluid like it should. I ran the car for about 40 minutes or so last night warming everything up and letting the fan cycle multiple times. Everything is working like it should minus the MAP.


Going to address the header and trans clearance this weekend so I'm not rushing it.


EDIT:



Just got a message back from John. He confirmed my wires are correct and said the following:

Those negative readings seem pretty normal, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

So I guess the MAP sensor thing is a non issue. I'll focus on trying to get stuff less touchy touchy where they shouldn't be and start some road miles.

[captain awesome]

Weird chain of events last night. I moved the trans and engine towards the driver side hoping this would cure the vibration I'm hearing. Come to find out it's my damn coil cover vibrating like a banshee. Easy fix.



So I took it on a long test ride and when I tried to give it the full beans up the interstate ramp the car went into limp mode. Barely got to the top of the hill and checked laptop codes.





I don't know what any of that means yet but snapped a pic, shut the car off, and started it right back up. Throttle was working again so off we go.


I took a windy slow road back to do a couple hard throttle pulls. HOWEVER when I stomped the throttle again it went into limp mode. I think what's happening is it's getting pushed past the drive by wire calibration threshold and freaking the Haltech out. Obviously when calibrating the pedal you can't really slam the throttle so I got home and pushed it as hard as possible to recalibrate. Don't know if that will fix it but I stomped on it a bunch to check values in the software and I think that may have done the trick.

Also for some reason both fans were on when I pulled in. I expected for the lower hose to be warm only to find it cold again. I need to figure out the best way to set up the fans because I think they are overcooling enough that thermostat won't open and then it's stuck warm on one side just enough to engage fans.

I love this car, and I'm loving this engine. It wants to rev. Tires are fighting for traction in first and second. They are crappy tires, but it made the drive a lot of fun. It almost feels like my old FRS with a supercharger.
Once these little details get sorted it's going to be awesome. I'm really excited to get some miles in and see what it can do without any real drama.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Also for some reason both fans were on when I pulled in. I expected for the lower hose to be warm only to find it cold again. I need to figure out the best way to set up the fans because I think they are overcooling enough that thermostat won't open and then it's stuck warm on one side just enough to engage fans.

I love this car, and I'm loving this engine. It wants to rev. Tires are fighting for traction in first and second. They are crappy tires, but it made the drive a lot of fun. It almost feels like my old FRS with a supercharger.
Once these little details get sorted it's going to be awesome. I'm really excited to get some miles in and see what it can do without any real drama.

Might need to raise the Fan On temp to like 215 temporarily to make sure the thermostat opens and gets all the air out. Then set it back to the normal temp.

What’s the temperature outside where your at? I finished the swap when it was just barely 60° out and only a few times was I able to get the car warm enough (in the garage) to kick the fans on. Since then it has been in the 40’s and I haven’t seen above 160°. When it was still 60° outside I got on the highway and the temps dropped down to the 130°’s. I’m on a stock radiator. It acts just like my “stock” B16b civic, will not warm up enough to even blow heat no matter how long I drive or let it idle. I think the Honda engines are just super efficient at staying cool.

As for your DBW issues, that’s an odd one. I run a Grams 72mm for the 86 and it’s been fine. I see about 3% tps at idle, not sure if this is normal or not.

-not sure if this is allowed, but if anyone wants a Red Kpower valve cover for the 86 send me a message. Decided to go a different route.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Ebush

Might need to raise the Fan On temp to like 215 temporarily to make sure the thermostat opens and gets all the air out. Then set it back to the normal temp.

What’s the temperature outside where your at? I finished the swap when it was just barely 60° out and only a few times was I able to get the car warm enough (in the garage) to kick the fans on. Since then it has been in the 40’s and I haven’t seen above 160°. When it was still 60° outside I got on the highway and the temps dropped down to the 130°’s. I’m on a stock radiator. It acts just like my “stock” B16b civic, will not warm up enough to even blow heat no matter how long I drive or let it idle. I think the Honda engines are just super efficient at staying cool.

As for your DBW issues, that’s an odd one. I run a Grams 72mm for the 86 and it’s been fine. I see about 3% tps at idle, not sure if this is normal or not.

-not sure if this is allowed, but if anyone wants a Red Kpower valve cover for the 86 send me a message. Decided to go a different route.

60s I believe was temp. Sitting and getting heat soaked in the garage it opens fine. When I'm driving it down the road it's just not getting enough heat to open the thermostat but enough to kick on the fans? I get hot air into the cabin just fine because anything on the passenger side all the way to the thermostat is hot. The only thing not hot is the lower rad hose. Maybe I'm just not getting it hot enough and it's a non issue like you say. The problem I see is that the fans can't get the car cool enough when pulled back into the garage to shut off. Then it just hovers at 96 c with the fans never shutting off. They are programmed to shut off around 88 c if I remember correctly but it can't seem to get anywhere near low enough.


DBW percentage is 3 percent at idle or even not running. I'll keep messing with it and try to make it trip up again in a more controlled environment. I'd like to disable it going into limp mode but need to do more research to see if I even can.