Mid Div TT development thread

[captain awesome]

Here's a quick inside video of my fastest lap on Sunday. A buddy of mine is going to try to get the balance better to see through the windshield.

[captain awesome]

Tried to drive this pig the other day and it tried to kill me. It feels like the wheels are falling off and it's steering itself wherever it wants to go. Wiggling all over the place like it's possessed. I haven't driven it since my trip to Heartland, and it was an unnerving drive there and back. I checked rear toe on the passenger side because oddly enough last year the exact same issue popped up late last year shredding a new rear set of tires. I didn't find a loose toe link, but a LCA eccentric nut that was barely snug. Pretty sure it never got tightened when I got the alignment, which I believe is the reason I had so much tram lining before. I should have taken it immediately back to the shop but just figured it was the wear pattern on the tires.


I gotta do a better pre-trip check to make sure this doesn't happen again.



Over an inch toe in....


Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[prandelia]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

That could make a big difference in what I had assumed was peak. I could have sworn I have seen an ACE a350 dyno with e85 at 206 or so peak though. Unfortunately NASA is not as prevalent in my area, so my plan is to mostly focus on the Mid Div and hopefully make a couple NASA events. Better to plan for both than chuck the kitchen sink at just one. BUT it sounds like I can run TT5 no problem with that knowledge.



Mid Div rules sound like peak numbers, so I just assumed NASA ran the same. This is Mid Div description:


A.3 Dyno runs must be produced on a Dyno-Jet chassis dynamometer. All readings will be corrected to SAE J1349 Rev JUN90 (29.23 in/hg, 77F, zero humidity) and the dyno’s smoothing function must be set to 5.

B.Dyno sheets must be from the current engine configuration and not more than 12 months old

C.If a Dyno-Jet brand dynamometer is not available in your area, sheets from other brands may be evaluated on a case by case basis.

206whp sounds super strong, but certainly possible, especially with a newer '17+ motor. FWIW - for help with your build, I also have a '15, and has just about every mod imaginable, as my car is a race car, shooting for the moon on power. Maybe I could eek out a few more peak hp with another intake (K&N or Grimspeed), but the TRD is within a couple peak hp of it on independent shootouts, and also is the highest in the mid-range. This car lacks grunt, so I chose to go with TRD, as I was trying to really beef up the powerband, not just peak power, and because it doesn't interfere with my oil cooler, the other two would.

200whp, 155tq. The torque curve is super flat, and that really helps with acceleration, so don't get so caught up with peak, it's the area under the curve that really matters, which is why NASA uses Avg. hp instead of peak. If your organization uses peak, focus on a fatter powerband.

E85 w/ ecutek
ACE350
3" full exhaust
Toda big throttle body
TRD intake

[captain awesome]

Stock lower control arms have been installed. They put me at roughly -2.2 degrees in the rear on BOTH sides with no need for any adjustment bolts.

Perfecto!

So that means I have eliminated the biggest issue with my alignment going out of whack. I am still waiting on the stock toe link eccentric bolt hardware to show up as I "may" pull the Whiteline ones. My only fear is that the stock links will go out of alignment with the eccentrics much like the SPC lower control arms did. The Whitelines can't really lose it's position unless it's completely loosened and even then that's going to take some effort. More reading on that to be done, but my gut says to stick with the Whitelines.

Moving on.

Last night I put the car up in the air and pulled the transmission. Stock pressure plate was pretty rusty on the outside, kinda weird. Took a bit of prying to break loose. Clutch disc looked like it still had life left in it, but lots of dust clumped up around the edge of the PP. Surface on the flywheel and PP didn't look too terrible. The throwout bearing was on it's way out. The early years had a common failure with them as the bearing grease provided wasn't up to the heat. They have released an updated version, so I purchased one of those plus a new fork and clips just to cover my bases. I actually bought most of this stuff in preparation for the upgraded clutch when the supercharger was installed.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Anyway, I got the new lightweight flywheel installed (7.5 less than stock), slid the clutch disc in place and grabbed the new pressure plate. As I went to bolt it up I realized the dowels weren't installed on the flywheel. I started trying to remove the dowels from the stock one, but they weren't budging. I decided to call it a night and try to pick some up today if possible.

Turns out I needed some sleep, cause the dowel thing is a silly situation. I totally forgot that the flywheel came with new dowel pins. The box came in from shipping with a huge hole in it, so I checked the contents and was surprised they were still in a little bag inside. Granted this was over a week ago, and my memory is crap. This morning I woke up and it's the first thing that popped in my head. I ran into the garage barely awake and confirmed I still have the dowels. The dowel drama is over. It has come to a close.

I was hoping to re-install the trans this evening, but my rear shifter bushing is squishy. I've ordered up a poly replacement, so I'll hold off installing the trans until that shows up this Saturday. In the meantime I'll probably get the diff bushings done since the car is already on blocks.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[Turbo]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I didn't find a loose toe link, but a LCA eccentric nut that was barely snug. Pretty sure it never got tightened when I got the alignment, which I believe is the reason I had so much tram lining before. I should have taken it immediately back to the shop but just figured it was the wear pattern on the tires.

Good thing you caught it! I had the exact same problem - it ended up causing the stability control and then ABS systems to crash due to erroneous readings in the middle of a high speed braking zone, and nuked a set of Nankang AR1 tires in the process.

All this while I was in pedal dance mode too, which means that while "pedal dance" may put the kybosh on interventions, the entire system is still actively measuring then processing data.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Turbo

Good thing you caught it! I had the exact same problem - it ended up causing the stability control and then ABS systems to crash due to erroneous readings in the middle of a high speed braking zone, and nuked a set of Nankang AR1 tires in the process.

All this while I was in pedal dance mode too, which means that while "pedal dance" may put the kybosh on interventions, the entire system is still actively measuring then processing data.

What arms are you using? Mine were the SPC, and the amount of toe change with the camber is alarming.

[captain awesome]

Clutch and pressure plate installed.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Still waiting to jam the trans back in place for shifter bushings, so I decided to do the diff bushings. When I bought the car it came with some Whiteline kits uninstalled. The front outrigger bushings and the ones located in the subframe. Since the factory bushing on the passenger side is cracking I figured it's a good time to just swap in the poly. I decided against doing the outrigger bushings since the stock ones look good and a bit of laziness I guess. Instructions were simple. Tap out the passenger bushing with a drift towards the rear of the car. Only problem was lack of space to do so and the thing wouldn't budge. So I got out the recip saw. What I didn't know is that bushing is filled with fluid, so things got messy. Fluid everywhere. Driver side needed cut out as well, but luckily no fluid.

I figured while I was in there I should clean the sway bushings and put in some fresh lube. So that's all done.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

I'm now realizing that these were all supposed to be winter projects. So I guess I gotta figure out what else I should do before next season. I've got a healthy list jotted down. I guess tire trailer could be next?

[captain awesome]

I'm either a genius or an idiot. I bought the Racer X manifold since it's on sale. I mean, it was on sale, so I had to.


So I'm now planning what to do. I would like to do a proper before and after dyno to see some real numbers. Can I realistically swap them in a short 30 minutes so I can get a proper back to back? Would it be best to do some road tuning first, then go to the dyno? My guy is 2 hours away, and obviously it's not free so I am limited.

[captain awesome]

Today a used foldable HF trailer popped up for $100. Wheels and tires in good shape. Wood is decent. Has a swing back jack which should help parking in pits, and also one less thing to purchase. All lights but driver side work, so I'll check the harness and grounds. Fenders are missing and one side the mount is gone. I can figure out fenders cheaply, but I'm contemplating just reducing the trailer footprint by half. I don't want to pull a full 4x8 sized trailer around since I don't need that much space. I can still set it up for hauling motorcycles with just the 4x4. I also hate the folding setup, it's clunky and I think there are some pieces missing or modified by the last couple owners. I feel good about my initial cost since the usual small HF trailer has been priced at $299 for quite some time with no ability to use coupons. Hoping I can keep my total under $299 for a ready to roll setup.



129613634_10215382391947584_1086048035581081978_n by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[captain awesome]

The ole crusty trailer got some work done on it over the weekend. The axle cradle is now bolted to the frame, and I welded the brackets for the tongue triangle thingy to bolt like it belongs there. The way it's set up now I can still fold the tongue up and set the trailer up against a wall if I would like. Highly doubtful I'll do that, but good to know it's possible. I spent a few minutes wire wheeling the rust and prepping for paint. Originally I considered a flashy color, but I really like the gray on my boat trailer so that's what I went with.

Wiring, spare wheel/tire, fenders, tool box, wheel mounts should be in the works soon.

Almost forgot, I pulled one leaf but considering pulling another. Anyone have experience pulling both springs leaving only one?

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

PS:


I bought a wing.



It was too cheap to pass up, which could potentially bite me. It's a S209 "style" wing from OLM which looks identical to the BRZ tS wing, only 4 inches wider overall. I found some early tS release pics that don't have the STI skirts, and I like it. Imagine the wing is a couple inches wider on each side with larger end plates. I waffled on this one for a week or two before deciding to try it out. It technically has some factory aero testing behind it if it's in fact an exact replica. I probably should be getting motorsport stuff since this is for race purposes, but I'm also willing to go my own way. If it doesn't work out I can just sell and move on. I'll be developing a splitter soon, but for now will just slap the Downforce carbon fiber front lip back on to balance things out a bit.


mas_8585 by hatchethairy, on Flickr

mas_8539 by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[captain awesome]

Racer X intake is here. I've been sorting out the little details to make it a clean install. I'll post more details including a how-to for others that decide to go this direction soon. Hoping to start running logs this weekend and get the tune dialed in enough for a day at the dyno. I've got everything set up so I can swap back to stock to do back to back testing. Fingers crossed we see some numbers that make the juice worth the squeeze.


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I'm still sorting the intake piping, but the post office has delayed so many parts lately.


Also, the Mid Div 2021 rules are under review. There's some changes that won't penalize stickier tires so much, but I probably was sticking with 200tw anyway. Also current schedule is only 4-5 races for the whole season with only two tracks. Pretty disappointed with that. I'd jump ship to NASA, but I need to go through their HPDE steps to get the license. It's not too late to start it, but I'd like to see how this season goes before heading that direction.

[captain awesome]

Almost forgot. I've lost some weight. The battery that came with the car has always been leaking. It's gross and annoying as hell.



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I finally sprang for a Shorai LFX24L3-BS12 since they seem to get good reviews. Still need to order the proper charger.


For terminals there are a bunch of options, but I went with the following:


Xs power tall brass posts through Crutchfield.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EGpZGW...ass-Posts.html


Plus the XS power 557 i-Bar adapter kit, which is basically some brass spacers.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wj9gKV...apter-Kit.html


I then bought some various lengths of stainless m6 fasteners. I believe the final length was m6x35mm.


As you can see the height is perfect for the terminals. I know there are plenty of folks that have used the supplied brackets, but I was wanting a more solid solution. This does the trick. Currently waiting on a bracket to do final install though.


Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


While I've been messing with the intake and battery, I decided to remove the annoying HID and fog light wiring. Between the relays and ballasts it was just a silly amount of crap that is somehow always in the way. I switched over to Osram Night Breaker H7s. Haven't tested them, other than at the garage wall from 5 feet away. I rarely drive at night, so I doubt I'll be missing the HIDs.



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Since I lost all the weight up front, might as well put some in back. I bought this homemade hitch setup and finally got around to installing it.


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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


While the bumper was off I swapped the Eibach rear sway bar for a stock one. I'll probably swap the stock one in up front as well, but haven't decided yet. I'm thinking of running two days at Hallett back to back for testing to see if I like it.

[captain awesome]

Car is now running with the new intake. I'm waiting on my battery bracket for the cute little juice maker from Shorai. I should get that today, so first set of logs will be this evening or tomorrow.

I've been waffling on where/how to place a vent for the crankcase. I ended up using a rubber grommit, 3/8 or so brass coupler and lengthening the stock line to reach. I decided the best place was at the joiner pipe, and I could just trim away material to make it work. Since it's located underneath, you don't see it and there's enough material to clamp for a good seal still. I need to order some more worm drive clamps, the T clamps are overkill for the TB and airbox junction.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

While waitng for the battery bracket I started my version of the rear seat delete. There is a kit out there that I could buy, but it's hundreds of dollars and it's heavier than one would expect. If I'm going to take out the rear seats and belts, it should be a weight savings that makes sense. I'm still uneasy about taking out the back seats for some reason. My kids used to ride with me, but we no longer use the FRS for anything family oriented. It's basically a toy now. I can put it back to stock in about 20 minutes or less.

So out with the old.

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Cardboard templates.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

At my work we use foamcore and a similar product called gator board. It's considerably stronger and stiffer than foam core, but I think light enough to do the job. The nice part is it already has a layer of pressure sensitive adhesive on one side. I'll peel that off and lay carpet over. Spray adhesive for the back, and I should be good to go. I've still got templates, so if I have to use coroplast instead I will.

Razor blades, straight edge, and a few minutes later.

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

This weekend I'd like to get these all put together with carpet, but like all projects it's never that simple. We shall see if it turns into a pile of ash in a few days or not.

[captain awesome]

Just a quick update. Still doing some tuning logs before I schedule a dyno day on the Racer X intake. It feels like I gained some mid range but I haven't driven the car much before then and it's probably just a placebo.



I found a used Kinetic Custom Machine battery bracket for the Shorai. I can't help but think it's overkill and heavy for such a light battery. I didn't weigh the mount itself, but even with all the hollowed out spots it's bulky. I may venture into a homebuilt solution at some point, but for now this works and it's one less thing to tinker with.


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I've been contemplating a new steering wheel. Every time I get back in the car I keep thinking the current Sparco is a bit on the small side and I want something a little more ergonomic. Honestly I should just go back to a nice stock wheel, but why would I do that? Anyway I spent way too much on this Nardi Gara Sport 350mm instead. It's a super nice wheel. I like it much more than the Sparco. Should have probably got the Momo Mod 88 I was eyeballing, but this one is pretty sweet.


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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


I just about finished my rear seat delete over the weekend. I ended up using some angle aluminum/strap with some JB Weld gluing the pieces together for bracing and structure. I drilled a few holes on each bracket with a countersink for the epoxy to bite into and help hold together. Structurally it's a back seat delete that you wouldn't put a human or much weight on. My shitty bathroom scale math says ~4 pounds. As of right now gravity holds it all into place with no snaps or fasteners needed. I have some magnets I may set up to make sure the back and base don't move under heavy braking.


I didn't take a pic of the upper portion backside before gluing the carpet down. There are brackets glued and hidden behind the carpet.



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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr


I'm fairly happy with how it turned out. The noise level has increased a bit with exhaust, but it's more tolerable than I expected. Radio noise helps quite a bit in that department.