Urgent help needed to identify blown engine

[driftking96]

Hey guys,
I had a oil leak and I thought it was a common valve cover gasket leak (according to body shop guy, and some research i did after being notified), and finally today I was able to take it to the mechanic after the body shop guy was done with it. This is a salvage title car that I'm rebuilding btw. Anyways I took it to the mechanic, and they looked at it and said that my engine is blown and that the oil is leaking through the existing seals and the aluminum block due to high compression?? I got some CEL codes as well but I don't want to give up after going so far with the car but I also don't want to dump more money than needed just to get it running, I rather cut my losses if so and just move on. These are the codes I got with the mechanics OBD.

I asked them to give me a dry compression test for all my cylinders tomorrow to make sure they aren't messed up. Also I need to replace existing MAF sensor as the current one has an issue (refer to previous post made by me for more info if needed) so right now I have no MAF. Is there any way to identify if an engine is blown or not? Thanks for the help peeps

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[Summerwolf]

Does the engine run? What does it do when it runs?

What was the damage to the car?

I doubt your mechanic will give you a correct compression reading due to boxer, and already sounding like he is feeding you a giant steaming turdpile of words.

[mav1178]

Ask for compression test.
Ask for leakdown test.

If you are trying to rebuild this on a budget, this is the downside of buying/retitling a salvaged title car...

[driftking96]

Yes the engine runs. Car is drivable. But all the oil has leaked out. Today when I towed it and they checked the engine was practically empty. And they drove it from the parking lot to the back of the garage, ~20-30 metres, I'm bad at guessing. Damage was front end, I replaced rad support, passenger fender, rad, condenser, bumper, headlight, and intake assembly. Engine was intact. Which is also why I initially believed valve cover gasket leak due to our engine being prone to it.

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[driftking96]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Ask for compression test.
Ask for leakdown test.

If you are trying to rebuild this on a budget, this is the downside of buying/retitling a salvaged title car...

I'm getting a dry compression test tomorrow. I will also ask for a leak down test tomorrow. Can you please explain in detail the downside of buying salvage? I was always thinking of the benefits especially in the beginning. Now the downsides are rubbing on my face. And I don't like it.

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[mav1178]

Originally Posted by driftking96

Can you please explain in detail the downside of buying salvage?

In a nutshell:

You need to pay for whatever parts you need to buy, and do whatever labor work you need to have done to have the car be recertified for street use again.

And/or you can be left with a lot of hidden problems like this. Keep in mind that it's salvaged for a reason, the insurance company or previous lienholder did not think it was worth it to repair the car.

If you buy salvaged, you effectively become the insurance company (for purposes of paying for repairing the car)

-alex

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by driftking96

Yes the engine runs. Car is drivable. But all the oil has leaked out. Today when I towed it and they checked the engine was practically empty. ............

An engine can show good on a compression and leak down test and still be leaking oil.

If ALL the oil has leaked out, I would suspect a cracked block.


humfrz

[driftking96]

So I should continue to get a compression test and leak down test? Are these the only things to check an engine's health? I had to put it newer oil so I'm not sure if I can still do an oil analysis. Anything else I can check to see if it's blown? You can hear the misfiring when the car is idling. If the engine is blown doesn't that mean the car won't start and the engine won't run? The car drives, misfires and makes a weird sound (not natural sound) but my engine seems fine so are blown engines chronic or acute damages?

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[Summerwolf]

You are in over your head.

[Summerwolf]

Originally Posted by humfrz

An engine can show good on a compression and leak down test and still be leaking oil.

If ALL the oil has leaked out, I would suspect a cracked block.


humfrz

IDK about going straight to cracked block, but possibly oil pan.... I mean there isn't much info to start diagnosing on.


The term "blown engine" is being used very loosely here.

[ZionsWrath]

If it leaked all the oil out wouldn't it be pretty easy to jack it up and visually inspect ?

Forget the codes and compression test. Where is the oil leaking out of?

Did the engine mounts get trashed in the accident and maybe cause some physical damage to the engine?

I don't know but it sounds to me you have some major problem you should be able to physically see before you start wasting money on more diagnosis.

[FRS Justin]

Pull the motor and inspect the engine...... No one here can give you a definitive answer....

1 No knock = Pull and inspect.. repair leak
2 big loud knock = throw the engine in the recycle bin.....

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Summerwolf

IDK about going straight to cracked block, but possibly oil pan.... I mean there isn't much info to start diagnosing on.


The term "blown engine" is being used very loosely here.

True.

When I think of a "blown engine", I see an engine that will NOT start, let alone run; a big puddle of oil under the engine and a part(s) of the inside of the engine ....... on the outside of the engine .......and a hole where the part(s) exited ........


humfrz

[tobin]

Highly recommend the Subaru EZ30R. All you need is a different oil pan and it bolts right up.