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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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08-05-2016, 07:20 PM | #1 |
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Best way to eliminate the torque dip
Found older posts but would like to see what's the mid-2016 opinion on eliminating the torque dip while minimizing noise?
Will the OFT stage 1 alone do it? If it's a aftermarket header which one is known to be quietest? Thanks |
08-05-2016, 07:28 PM | #2 |
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Don't think the mid 16 opinions have changed much.
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08-05-2016, 07:28 PM | #3 |
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Thanks for asking this. I have been doing the same, reading everything. So far nothing I have read gets rid of it, just makes it more shallow and not as wide. I think it will have to be louder but I'll wait for some more experienced to respond.
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08-05-2016, 07:30 PM | #4 |
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The only way to get rid of it is to do an engine swap. Or just learn to drive around it. Or just ignore it.
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08-05-2016, 07:37 PM | #5 |
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An equal length long tube header and tune will put a hump where the dip was. I had a catted p&l. Only drawback for me was that it was soft below 3k rpms. Could've been tune related though. Mounted to stock op and catback it was no louder than stock.
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08-05-2016, 10:37 PM | #6 |
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Get a powerful car. If not engine swap.
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08-05-2016, 11:17 PM | #7 |
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What is wrong with the torque dip?? If I understand correctly, many cars have it - including Porsche. It's almost like our own version of VTEC; engine gets louder and louder without much happening, then WHAMMO, here's the torque you want!
IMO the torque dip isn't hard to handle. Daily driving you barely notice it, and if you are on the track your RPMs barely ever fall that low (depending on which track) to have it make a difference. That being said, I don't think there is any way to get rid of the dip without getting louder as everything you need to do to get rid of it involves straying from stock which typically means getting louder. You can try to stay quiet by finding a catted header and getting a tune but even then technically you will still probably be louder than stock. Even going the boost route means ramming more air through your engine which comes out your exhaust meaning more noise... Like others have said, you can always engine swap, but this probably isn't worth it if you aren't trying for insane numbers
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08-05-2016, 11:29 PM | #8 |
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FI
Engine swap Trade in? |
08-06-2016, 12:15 AM | #9 |
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Thanks LantanaFRS for the suggestion. I like the fact that the cat has lifetime warranty for longevity/ROI sake.
So the catted P&L with everything else oem gives a stock like volume (which I frankly prefer). Any other headers to consider or P&L is it? Thx |
08-06-2016, 12:18 AM | #10 |
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I don't need way more HP or torque. Simply want a more linear delivery instead of a dip between 3500 and 4500 rpm... so engine swap is out of question for now
Different car - I actually like the BRZ and the balance it has so not going there either.. thx |
08-06-2016, 12:24 AM | #11 |
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Just want the power delivery to be more linear so "more shallow" will do.. don't necessarily need to completely gt rid of the dip. Noise level is a consideration though as I work shifts.
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08-06-2016, 12:27 AM | #12 |
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Hks, jdl for starters. There are cheaper uels available. Vishnu can get u a header and tune for 1100 I believe. For me the header and tune combo make a day and night difference.
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08-06-2016, 12:36 AM | #13 |
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If you want to eliminate that dip, you must sacrifice some noise. With that said, it is certainly possible.
My friends runs ACE 350, Perrin 2.5 in, JDL Ultra Quiet FP, JRSC, flexfuel, and a custom tune. The dyno reading is just an uphill slope at an incline of 45 degrees. I could not believe what I saw. It's a different car. Specifically, like a different engine. Chassis was always brillant. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
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08-06-2016, 12:41 AM | #14 |
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Header and a tune... UEL or long tube EL + OFT or ECUTek add e85 if available in your area will give you more power across the board.
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