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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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09-30-2014, 06:40 PM | #1 |
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Break in Period
Just purchased a 2015 BRZ Sport Tech CBS 6 spd...pick it up next weekend...Need some advice from the BRZ vets on here about break in period procedures and tips such as keeping the rpm's low for the first little while etc..much appeciated
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09-30-2014, 06:45 PM | #2 |
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Subaru verbatim below. Don't step on gas pedal too much to keep revs low? I don't know what you're trying to get at.
New Car Break-in period 1000 miles: Drive calmly for the first 1,000 miles and vary your driving with a normal mix of city and highway. Always note the blue 'cold engine' light on the dashboard- its a visual reminder that the engine is cold. Avoid hard starts and stops. Avoid over-revving the engine, try to keep RPMs under 4000. Vary your speeds over the full range of city and highway driving Don't use cruise control much, if at all. City and freeway driving is fine because that will vary the speeds |
09-30-2014, 07:06 PM | #3 |
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The most important thing is to not use cruise control for the first 1000 miles. The rings need a variety of RPM and loads to seat properly.
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09-30-2014, 07:08 PM | #4 |
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Personally I never really trust factory break in procedures. Once warmed up give it a healthy beating to seat the piston rings.
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09-30-2014, 07:34 PM | #5 |
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Drive it like you stole it. Break in procedures were written by lawyers. Drive it hard, make sure to use most of the rev range. Just don't redline it, don't drop the clutch, don't go drifting etc. The important thing is that the piston rings seat properly. People who break in their cars soft may experience oil seeping past the rings in the future.
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09-30-2014, 07:59 PM | #6 |
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Toss in someone who takes it easy for the first half the break in period and then slowly ramps up how hard they drive it and voila you have the full spectrum of opinions on break in theory.
This should be the end of the thread, but depending on who jumps in we may get 5 more pages of arguing and posting of various websites and pictures of cylinder walls and compression tests. imho multi-billion dollar auto companies who have dumped a couple billion dollars in engine development over several decades have a vested interest in you being a repeat customer and gain little if any benefit from giving you improper instructions on owning and operating your vehicle. |
The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | aristo (10-01-2014) |
09-30-2014, 08:37 PM | #7 |
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Like others have mentioned, get on it! Don't go crazy redlining it though. In the end, fuck it you have a factory warranty right?
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09-30-2014, 09:11 PM | #8 |
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^^and if they won't warranty it then it's time to go FI.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jrryjms07 For This Useful Post: | DavidBob (09-30-2014) |
09-30-2014, 11:47 PM | #9 |
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Pretty much all you need to know about this forum/our cars is in the two posts above. If anything, you have factory warranty right? If not, then it's time to go FI
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10-01-2014, 09:16 AM | #10 |
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Just drive it.
Like a bastard.
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10-01-2014, 10:12 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Blue Light? Where is this on the dash? I don't have one...... unless I'm really oblivious. |
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10-01-2014, 10:38 AM | #12 |
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Must be from some other Subie, WRX maybe? I don't have one either.
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10-01-2014, 12:26 PM | #13 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Looks like the hot temperature light (which is red), except blue. Edit: the above is wrong - this light must be on other Subie's, but not ours.
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10-01-2014, 12:39 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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