Gauging Interest, ISC Front Control Arm

[ISC Suspension]

Hello FT-86 Club!,
We have been starting to develop a front control arm for the BRZ/ FRS and wanted to get the opinion and input from you all.

As many of you know, the BRZ front control arm is extremely weak in comparison to what it should be, there have been tests that express additional flex just from people upgrading their pads and rotors!

Anyways, our product would be a CNC produced solid (no welds or tubes here) 6061 aluminum arm, for maximum performance and appeal. Color matched to the brand in ISC gold, complimenting our already available rear control arms for BRZ/FRS.


Whiteline Bushings and Ball Joints would be included and the option for just the control arm itself WITHOUT bushings would be available (if you wanted to use OEM)

We are aware that there is not much out there for this application that is affordable and readily available. That being said we understand that 2500.00 for a control arm is simply not in the budget for a lot of street cars.

We would aim for a RETAIL of 1250.00, with dealers selling them for the 955.00-1250.00 range, similar to our N1 coilovers.
Is this something you would be willing to pay?

We feel it would attract the motorsports enthusiast for its performance gains, but also the street car and show car due to its appeal and quality.

Let us know your thoughts!

OLD Front Arm Sample, Currently being re-designed as we speak.



Thanks,

ISC Suspension-NA R&D

[Createddeleted]

What kind of weight compared to OEM lca's?

[7thgear]

the most important part is how easy will balljoint/bushing replacement be (ie, no binding and whether anti-dive and what not characterstics will be adjusted

ability to adjust the length would also help so you can push the wheel out for negative camber and or increased track width.



Robispec made the best thing imaginable... so collaborate with him on his design or do something similar. Simply making a stronger/ligher OEM replacement is a waste of time and effort

[Jive Turkey]

pm'ed

[ISC Suspension]

Since the stock arms are so thin and stamped they are of course lighter, but as our test results show ours are 5x stronger, and with that there is a slight increase in weight (2 pounds I believe?). Its the nature of the beast using the amount of CNC'd aluminum we are using to accomplish our goal of high strength and avoiding a welded/ tubular style arm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ISC Suspension]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

the most important part is how easy will balljoint/bushing replacement be (ie, no binding and whether anti-dive and what not characterstics will be adjusted

ability to adjust the length would also help so you can push the wheel out for negative camber and or increased track width.



Robispec made the best thing imaginable... so collaborate with him on his design or do something similar. Simply making a stronger/ligher OEM replacement is a waste of time and effort

We have teamed up with Whiteline for this product. A whiteline ball joint will be standard, as well as a Whiteline bushing which DOES have adjustment range as well, so we will have adjust ability from both points. Part number KCA434- http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA434

NOTES: IMPORTANT
Adds +0.5º caster + anti-dive

PRODUCT BENEFITS
Whiteline Anti Dive Kit is designed to add 0.5 deg static positive caster to both front wheels while changing the nature of front anti-dive & lift. These low compliance bushings also maintain higher dynamic positive castor & change the front control arm geometry that positively influences front suspension attitude. This leads to superior traction under power and braking, including cornering, dramatically reducing understeer & front wheel spin. The additional caster coupled with the new firmer bushings supplied serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response then forcing more consistent alignment angles through the corner due to the reduced bushing compliance

Keeping that adjustment point as an adjustable bushing keeps the arm reliable, and also quiet (for the street car in mind as well not just strictly dedicated track cars) but still allowing adjustment for camber and caster. We wanted to offer something with OEM longevity as apposed to a full race construction loaded with pillowballs, rods, threads, etc...

[ISC Suspension]

Thanks for the input thus far everyone!

[Turdinator]

They look awesome. I personally can't justify that amount of money on control arms but they are for sure on my wish list.

[ISC Suspension]

Thank you for you input sir!

[Yoniyama]

At first, I was excited by this proposal. Finally, a better front control arm!

Among other things, I installed the following on my Toybaru:

1 $1,000 for a carbon fibre driveshaft;
2 $2,000 for a set of five 16-inch forged wheels (yes 16-inch!) that weighs 12lb each;
3 $800 for a pair of 2-piece front rotors (-5lb each);
4 $550 for a set of light-weight Cusco anti-roll bars (hollow in rear);
5 $600 for a 15lb fly-wheel; and
6 $60 for ultra-light lug nuts (25 grammes each).

As you can see, reducing unsprung weight is a high priority for me.

But sorry, front control arms that are 2lb heavier (each) but also 5X stronger do not interest me. Partly because my Toybaru is not about to compete in the Dakar Rally.

2lb heavier (in unsprung weight) but 5X stronger is a compromise (heavier weight for greater strength), not necessarily an out-right improvement.

The proposition would be IRRESISTIBLE if it was:
a 2lb lighter (each); and
b 2 X stronger.

Then it would be an improvement in every aspect. I would be VERY interested if the street price is under $1,000/pair.

But perhaps I am not your target/typical customer.

[mrk1]

I wonder how the strength of these would compare to boxing the factory arms.

The Robispec parts are nice but definitely a race part. These seem to be more realistic.

If these do make it to sale I think bushings options would be nice. Im not a huge fan of those whiteline bushings.

[Calum]

Replacing a factory arm is much easier than pulling the body back to shape after a little off roading. I'd rather keep the factory arms, even if these were free.

[SkAsphalt]

Originally Posted by Calum

Replacing a factory arm is much easier than pulling the body back to shape after a little off roading. I'd rather keep the factory arms, even if these were free.

Calum, don't be that guy.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SkAsphalt

Calum, don't be that guy.

You too SkAsphalt.