Vortech V3 with 3.12 pulley, what supporting mods do I need?

[csmith171]

I have a frs with a uel header and a full catless exhaust, I purchased a v3 kit second hand, and it comes with a 3.12 pulley. Do I need injectors and a pump upgrade? And if i do would 540cc injectors and a walbro 255 suffice?

[SkAsphalt]

You need Jesus.

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by SkAsphalt

You need Jesus.

Amen

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by csmith171

I have a frs with a uel header and a full catless exhaust, I purchased a v3 kit second hand, and it comes with a 3.12 pulley. Do I need injectors and a pump upgrade? And if i do would 540cc injectors and a walbro 255 suffice?

The usual clutch, oil cooler. Those are plenty on pump gas. e85 most likely be enough as well.

[DJCarbine]

My previous tuner suggested only a fuel pump upgrade when doing the 3.12" pulley, I opted for the fuel pump and 650?cc injectors for e85 in the future.

Stock clutch, no problems so far close to 30K miles
93oct pump gas, no issues with IAM dropping or knocking

I have no oil cooler and do not really notice temps above 235F, but that is street driving

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by DJCarbine

My previous tuner suggested only a fuel pump upgrade when doing the 3.12" pulley, I opted for the fuel pump and 650?cc injectors for e85 in the future.

Stock clutch, no problems so far close to 30K miles
93oct pump gas, no issues with IAM dropping or knocking

I have no oil cooler and do not really notice temps above 235F, but that is street driving

ok well 235 isnt crazy if your on a 5w30wt oil. On a 0w20 thats going to be sub optimal oil pressure.

[SkAsphalt]

Originally Posted by stevo585

ok well 235 isnt crazy if your on a 5w30wt oil. On a 0w20 thats going to be sub optimal oil pressure.

and where do you have the proof for that statement? EDIT: sorry, I thought you mean 235whp or something, i noticed you meant temperature. I would stick with 0w20, as that is what most track drivers on this forum suggest, but also a cooler (duh)

I do not get hotter than 110C with my turbo...no cooler. But on a track I could see it getting hot for sure.

[AJPG]

Originally Posted by SkAsphalt

and where do you have the proof for that statement? EDIT: sorry, I thought you mean 235whp or something, i noticed you meant temperature. I would stick with 0w20, as that is what most track drivers on this forum suggest, but also a cooler (duh)

I do not get hotter than 110C with my turbo...no cooler. But on a track I could see it getting hot for sure.

Hi,

My car have a sc plus oil cooler and temp with:

1. normal driving (more or less flat road and relative constant speed) oil temp keep around 185f and coolant 195f.
2. Traffic bumper to bumper at <10mph oil 195f coolant 195f (that's with the AC on) without the AC 212f both.
3. Spirit drives
A. The back road around the house 22.3 miles, elevation from sea level to 1,600 fts, total elevation 2,450 fts, time (less than 30 minutes) with the AC on oil around 200f as well as coolant, without the AC oil around 210f and coolant around 212f.
B. The back road trough the west of the island 67.8 miles, elevation fron sea level to almost 5,000 fts, the temps are lower than around the house due to increase risk.
C. Track... Things get hot. Without the AC water reach 225f and oil 235f; also and getting of topic the AT oil with the oem oil cooler and 10 lines oil to air gets to the 240f plus (thinking on using a fan if could get more track time), the sc oil 212f.

I would recommend the use of an oil cooler even for a stoke car use for DD, is like buying health. Could use any cooler (if found the space) and the only drawback that I could see is oil getting out but that is mechanic/part related.

[Gopherboy6956]

When I did mine, I went with the Perrin Oil Cooler, Radium Catch cans and a new Radiator.

Along with that, I've added an AFR and oil temp / pressure gauge.

The Radiator is not so important, stock one is good - but the catch cans important to keep blowby from coating the inside of the FMIC.