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Old 08-23-2021, 12:45 PM   #365
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What was the reasoning behind moving to 18" wheels?
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Old 08-23-2021, 01:02 PM   #366
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What was the reasoning behind moving to 18" wheels?
In a nutshell, grip.

-9" is not optimum for a 255 anyway. For max grip, you want your wheel to be about the same width as the tread, which means 10".

-18's offer a better contact patch shape and loading. The shorter, stiffer sidewall increases the effect of whatever camber you're running. This allows you to run a tad less camber which improves straight line braking.

-Shorter stiffer sidewall improves steering response. It also allows the driver to use smaller inputs to manage slip angle, making the car easier to drive at the limit

- Looks bitchin
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Old 08-23-2021, 05:01 PM   #367
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Thank you, figured I'd ask since it didn't seem like you'd mentioned prior and you've always got a reason.
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Old 08-24-2021, 02:15 AM   #368
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast View Post
Thanks for the helpful insight. Basically I'm looking for a 2nd set of tires that I can use for HPDE's where I'm not limited to running something 200 TW and above. I'd like to keep my A052's fresh for time trials. The requirements I'm looking for are (in order of importance):

1. Pace on par or quicker than the fastest super 200's
2. Greater heat endurance than the super 200's (I'd like to complete a 20 minute session without major falloff)
3. Decent wear rate (Something in-between RE71R and RS4 would be great)
4. Reasonable cost (no sticker ho-ho's unfortunately)

It sounds like the RC1S2 could fit that bill well. What do you think?
Look at the new Conti 200tw tires

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2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber
JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85
RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid
ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's
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Old 08-25-2021, 06:03 PM   #369
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Crawford BPB A/B dyno

We installed BPB (Crawford Power Blocks), spacers under the OEM plastic intake manifold a few month back. Finally dyno'd it last week (August 21, 2021). Was surprised to see it down about 13 whp from the last time we dyno'd it in July 2019. We weren't sure if the loss was the BPB or just a tired engine. We needed to do a compression and leak down test to assess the state of the engine. As most of you know, a simple compression test in an 86 is a PITA. Have to lower the subframe/engine to get the test equipment in there. Easier method was just to take the BPB back out and dyno it again. So that's what we did.

So this dyno is a tired engine. Blub has maybe 50hrs of HPDE with a pro driver over the last 3 years. It had like 85k on the odo when we bought it from Carmax. Still though, you can see the effect of the BPB here. Overall, the gains between 5500-6500 aren't worth the losses above 6500. We thought they would be. It's plausible that more time spent fiddling with the BPB map would get some of that top end back. Maybe not. We don't know and aren't going to investigate further.

Delicious did both tunes so the BPB tune is fairly well optimized. Perhaps not as optimized as our original tune which went through maybe 10 iterations before we maxed things out.

So I would take this dyno report with a grain of salt and not 100% conclusive on whether BPB offer an improvement in area under the curve or not. Just another data point, and anecdotal at that. Not a pure controlled test because the engine is tired and we spent less time on the BPB map.

________

Which leaves us with a conundrum. Blub needs a new motor.

Option A
Junkyard motor in mystery condition for $4500 or so

Option B
Rebuild with forged internals for about $6500 or so

Option C
Kpower K24A swap for unknown $$. They're announcing the price for the full kit in a few days we hear. The motor will be more robust, make about 230whp on E85, rev to 8,000 and cost about $1,000 to replace if we blow it up. As a bonus, it drops about 140 lbs and improves the weight distribution. It'll be 1-2s faster on most courses.

As cool as the K24 swap sounds, that would be the end of our setting new lap records with a stock FA20 longblock. We still have several tracks we wanted to to try to reset but without the asterisk of "engine swap". But the car would be faster, more fun to drive and probably more reliable. I guess we'll see when Kpower announces pricing.
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:31 PM   #370
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Originally Posted by 949 Racing View Post
We installed BPB (Crawford Power Blocks), spacers under the OEM plastic intake manifold a few month back. Finally dyno'd it last week (August 21, 2021). Was surprised to see it down about 13 whp from the last time we dyno'd it in July 2019. We weren't sure if the loss was the BPB or just a tired engine. We needed to do a compression and leak down test to assess the state of the engine. As most of you know, a simple compression test in an 86 is a PITA. Have to lower the subframe/engine to get the test equipment in there. Easier method was just to take the BPB back out and dyno it again. So that's what we did.

So this dyno is a tired engine. Blub has maybe 50hrs of HPDE with a pro driver over the last 3 years. It had like 85k on the odo when we bought it from Carmax. Still though, you can see the effect of the BPB here. Overall, the gains between 5500-6500 aren't worth the losses above 6500. We thought they would be. It's plausible that more time spent fiddling with the BPB map would get some of that top end back. Maybe not. We don't know and aren't going to investigate further.

Delicious did both tunes so the BPB tune is fairly well optimized. Perhaps not as optimized as our original tune which went through maybe 10 iterations before we maxed things out.

So I would take this dyno report with a grain of salt and not 100% conclusive on whether BPB offer an improvement in area under the curve or not. Just another data point, and anecdotal at that. Not a pure controlled test because the engine is tired and we spent less time on the BPB map.

________

Which leaves us with a conundrum. Blub needs a new motor.

Option A
Junkyard motor in mystery condition for $4500 or so

Option B
Rebuild with forged internals for about $6500 or so

Option C
Kpower K24A swap for unknown $$. They're announcing the price for the full kit in a few days we hear. The motor will be more robust, make about 230whp on E85, rev to 8,000 and cost about $1,000 to replace if we blow it up. As a bonus, it drops about 140 lbs and improves the weight distribution. It'll be 1-2s faster on most courses.

As cool as the K24 swap sounds, that would be the end of our setting new lap records with a stock FA20 longblock. We still have several tracks we wanted to to try to reset but without the asterisk of "engine swap". But the car would be faster, more fun to drive and probably more reliable. I guess we'll see when Kpower announces pricing.
Is there Dyno a Dyno jet or more like a mustang Dyno?

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2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber
JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85
RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid
ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:38 PM   #371
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Originally Posted by jflogerzi View Post
Is there Dyno a Dyno jet or more like a mustang Dyno?
Google it for real detail.

Mustang is a loading dyno.
Dynojet is an inertial dyno.

Mustang can be "calibrated" to read whatever you want and tends to product lower numbers than other dynos. Dynojets aren't great for tuning because they can't hold steady load but they tend to be very consistent. They also can't easily be fooled and they have no calibration. Same car on 3 different dynojets a year apart will read pretty much the same. Just look at the correction factor in the published plot. SAE correction is most relevant as it takes weather into account. STD or uncorrected will usually be a bit higher. Unless make a mistake somewhere, we will always publish SAE corrected and max smoothing (5).
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:42 PM   #372
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Originally Posted by 949 Racing View Post
Google it for real detail.



Mustang is a loading dyno.

Dynojet is an inertial dyno.



Mustang can be "calibrated" to read whatever you want and tends to product lower numbers than other dynos. Dynojets aren't great for tuning because they can't hold steady load but they tend to be very consistent. Same car on 3 different dynojets a year apart will read pretty much the same. Just look at the correction factor in the published plot. SAE correction is most relevant as it takes weather into account. STD or uncorrected will usually be a bit higher. Unless make a mistake somewhere, we will always publish SAE corrected and max smoothing (5).
Only reason I ask is cause I just had my setup Dynoed at csg they use a hub Dyno. My engine is a bit tired as well. I was down on power according to zach

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RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber
JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85
RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid
ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's
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Old 08-25-2021, 11:08 PM   #373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jflogerzi View Post
Only reason I ask is cause I just had my setup Dynoed at csg they use a hub Dyno. My engine is a bit tired as well. I was down on power according to zach

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Generally you can't compare number from different brands and types of dynos.
So take it back to the same dyno are at least find a shop with the same type.

All loading dynos and hub dynos can be calibrated. Meaning the operator can fudge the numbers up or down. But they are way better than inertial dynos for actual tuning because you can do steady state and some other useful functions than an inertial won't do.
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Old 08-25-2021, 11:26 PM   #374
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When was the last time this car had the spark plugs changed? Seems silly but one of our Aussie brothers was down on power with his heavily tracked car and attributed it to a tired engine. He was recommend to change the plugs since its the easiest and cheapest possible solution. Threw in new plugs and the engine was back to it usual power output. Our engines are recommend to get new spark plugs after 60k miles of regular driving, I can see track driving bringing that number down significantly.
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Old 08-26-2021, 12:07 AM   #375
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New NGK Iridium plugs installed late 2019. Last a lot longer than OEM platinum. Have not checked them recently.
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Old 08-26-2021, 01:15 AM   #376
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Quote:
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New NGK Iridium plugs installed late 2019. Last a lot longer than OEM platinum. Have not checked them recently.
OEM is also Iridium, made by Denso.



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Old 08-26-2021, 02:59 AM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 949 Racing View Post
We weren't sure if the loss was the BPB or just a tired engine. We needed to do a compression and leak down test to assess the state of the engine. As most of you know, a simple compression test in an 86 is a PITA. Have to lower the subframe/engine to get the test equipment in there. Easier method was just to take the BPB back out and dyno it again. So that's what we did.
In Techstream diagnostics tool there is also an option to do a compression test to quickly verify your findings - however I'm not sure how accurate would that be compared to an actual bench test.
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Old 08-26-2021, 11:34 AM   #378
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OEM is also Iridium, made by Denso.
You're right. I think we put ruthenium plugs in. I just remember upgrading the material and that I had to order them from overseas. I'll try to dig up the part number.

In other news, the team has decided on the K24A swap with Haltech 1500 ECU. Parts won't be available for a few months. The new room for activities will allow us to build proper brake ducts and ditch the deflectors we run now. I suspect it will be January before Blub is up and running again.
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