Truth about using STI Brembos on the twins

[xkalelx]

Mike, not trying to discredit you at all. You sound very knowledgeable about the subject and trust me, I would LOVE some more track time especially with someone with experience in 86s.

But I never said i was tracking Hawk HPSs. Nor did I ever recommend HPS pads for track use. The beauty of this simple upgrade is being able to swap in my Ferodo pads at the track and IMO if you arent doing this, you just upgraded to Brembos for E-fame.

[churchx]

Imho there is no chance that Mike will 'upgrade for E-fame' his Essex APRacing Sprint BBK for STI brembos .

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by churchx

Imho there is no chance that Mike will 'upgrade for E-fame' his Essex APRacing Sprint BBK for STI brembos .

I think CSGMike is running Endurance because the Sprints weren't up to the task.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by xkalelx

Hawk HPS 5.0 compound F/R. EXCELLENT brake feel and bias feels VERY close to stock. Junk OE front calipers were sticking and leaking at 25k. This is a very worthwhile upgrade for street and mild track use.

Originally Posted by xkalelx

But I never said i was tracking Hawk HPSs. Nor did I ever recommend HPS pads for track use.

Maybe one could be mistaken for thinking you did say you could.

[xkalelx]

This topic is about calipers not pad compounds gentlemen. Reading too much into things.

edit: also, I wasnt inferring that CSG Mike was after E-fame but that our views were in line. Mike stated earlier that if one were to do ANY upgrade like this and not use for its intended purpose that (s)he was just making a pretty show car.

[Streetthrowback]

I hate seeing this types of threads

[J.Villain]

Originally Posted by tennisfreak

Everything I have read and found researching says for any type of racing/track application you should use slotted and not drilled rotors.

Actually you shouldn't use either. Slotted and drilled were for pads that used to out gas. No modern pad does that. Both drilling and slotting create stress points in the rotors you don't want that.

And for the love of god don't apply the E brake right after coming into the pits after lapping.

[wootwoot]

Originally Posted by J.Villain

Actually you shouldn't use either. Slotted and drilled were for pads that used to out gas. No modern pad does that. Both drilling and slotting create stress points in the rotors you don't want that.

And for the love of god don't apply the E brake right after coming into the pits after lapping.

I thought it was ok to pull the e brake because it didn't utilize the caliper to lock the rear wheels? Which, I thought, meant that the caliper wouldn't hold the hot rotor tight and cause issues?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

I thought it was ok to pull the e brake because it didn't utilize the caliper to lock the rear wheels? Which, I thought, meant that the caliper wouldn't hold the hot rotor tight and cause issues?

It uses a drum brake instead, which is still part of the braking system int he rear.

Put the car in gear, and turn the steering wheel completely to one side instead. If possible, use wheel chocks too.

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

I thought it was ok to pull the e brake because it didn't utilize the caliper to lock the rear wheels? Which, I thought, meant that the caliper wouldn't hold the hot rotor tight and cause issues?

The problem is that even the e brake drum is extremely hot so if you set the e brake, it can seize.

[wootwoot]

Learn something new every day. Thanks guys.

[BunnyRZed]

Went toge my BRZ this weekend and was super heavy on my front Brembos. Just want to check in and yall know I'm still alive.

[derek1ee]

Originally Posted by Fizz

The calipers on the BRZ tS is identical to those found on other STi models, meaning they will 100% clear 17" wheels (with correct offset).

What about the master cylinder on tS vs. USDM cars?

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by protpibe

As someone that's swapped STI brembos over to a twin, I can confirm a few things:

I didn't die in a fireball (knock on wood)
There is no noticeable decrease in braking performance (as some of stated elsewhere)

I did not invert my bleeders because I could honestly care less about the pads wearing a little unevenly. Even if significant uneven wear were true (which some have proven otherwise), I don't really care if I have to replace my pads a little earlier.

In regular day to day street driving, and the odd "spirited" drive, there is no noticeable difference in bias. I'm going to the local track in May for the first real test on this braking setup, and will report back then. I only really hot lap, so I'm not out for any time attack records. If I were fighting for tenths of a second per lap, I would of just went with an AP Racing setup. With that being said, I don't anticipate any noticeable decrease in performance from my old pad/rotor upgrade on the OEM calipers. The increase in rotor size will also help with heat capacity.

Thanks for posting the article, and although I don't doubt the data in it at all, I can't help but feel that the delivery was skewed to be a bit of a marketing ploy. I realize the science behind why an STI Brembo isn't the #1 choice for a performance upgrade, I don't think i'ts the worst thing you could do to your car either.

I assume you don't track the car?


My thoughts on the article:
Bias: Yes it offsets bias, HOWEVER, with EBFD and the other tech on the car the effect of that is actually minimized. It's still better to try to keep the proper bias as you'll have less lock up before you should, but it's just not as important as it would be with an older car.


Bleeders/crossover tube height: I haven't examined them that closely, but seems like it could be fixed with unique bleeding methods (not mounted, etc).


Staggered pistons: Important for track use for wear, far less for a street car.