KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

If they have one that fits your needs go for it, but you will still be limited to the fuel line they are using which will be 5/16". If you plan to go larger I don't know if there's a benefit other than the ac2 plug being pre-pinned for you and maybe a bracket to hold the sensor. I'll post up pics of how I did mine but still waiting on my ac2 plug to come in and have it officially wrapped up.

5/16 is big enough. I was more concerned if the lines were smaller considering 5/16 x2 is overkill. I don’t know if the D4S system at WOT is just using one set of injectors because then that would make sense to go from 5-16 to two 5/16, as it wouldn’t be overkill.

Yeah, I’ll wire it up myself if I had all the connections. There is just a million types of connectors and pins, so I wouldn’t know where to start. I haven’t dug through Haltech’s website for pins and connector types or anything. My researching is slacking because I’m buried in work and studying. I would appreciate a tutorial and link to which clip to get.

[captain awesome]

So since I'm sitting on my rump at work bored I figure it's a good time to go over how I plumbed the flex fuel sensor.


First thing first. Parts list with some breakdown on price.


13507128 ACDelco/Continental flex sensor. Musta been a flash sale because they are around $50 now but I got it for $38 on Prime.


Vibrant 12275 pinch clamps $8.50 but only need 2 total for this.


8 pin connector 90980-10896 with pins that will plug into the stock AC2 harness connector was $20.90 and the only item I'm waiting to receive.



Boost Monkey flex fuel pigtail for $13.13. This means I only have to crimp 3 pins to the AC2 plug.


Gates 27335 5/16" fuel line. I bought 10' for $19.80 through Rockauto but maybe used a foot at best?


Dorman quick connects 800091 and 800085 for under $3 each. Also purchased through Rockauto. I only needed one 90 degree fitting and one of the straights so you will have a leftover.


Maxwell Manufacturing flex fuel billet mount for $28 on ebay.


Combined with the Kpower fuel supply line this is really all that's needed.



I took a spare bracket that was used for the stock intake box and flattened a spot for it to be bolted to the strut tower brace bolt. The Maxwell bracket bolted to it, and the lines point perfectly to the connectors. Into the sensor from the stock fuel hard line is a fuel clamped 5/16" hose feeding a 90 degree Dorman quick release clamped with the Vibrant crimp ring. Then a straight Dorman fitting crimped to the provided Kpower line which has a quick connect to their fuel rail. The Boost Monkey pigtail will pin to the AC2 plug and the rest is all settings to configure in the Haltech.

We've already made the provisions to run a flex fuel sensor quickly and easily. The Flex Fuel sensor signal is run off connector B, pin 8 on the Haltech ECU. All you need to do is go into the main setup on the ESP software, and set the Flex Fuel Composition Input to pin B8 (SPI1). From there, you'll have to set up the edge and sensor type according to which sensor you have. Once you have that setup, the rest is easy. Find the 8 pin connector (AC2) that runs right next to the main 54 pin connector that you'll plug the engine harness into. Everything you need is in the 8 pin connector. On that 8 pin connector, the 3 wires you'll need are as follows:

Pin 1 (light green/red stripe): 12V power
Pin 2 (white): Ground
Pin 3 (red/ green stripe): flex fuel sensor signal

[Irace86.2.0]

I think the Haltech sensor has 3/8 fittings and does fuel temp too, but I don't know if that matters. It comes with a clip and pins and stuff, but it is clearly overpriced--the sticker was the most expensive piece lol

Here is the part number for the Haltech 3/8 long tube sensor:

ACDelco-13577394

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-13577.../dp/B01GQR9HFY

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I think the Haltech sensor has 3/8 fittings and does fuel temp too, but I don't know if that matters. It comes with a clip and pins and stuff, but it is clearly overpriced--the sticker was the most expensive piece lol

Here is the part number for the Haltech 3/8 long tube sensor:

ACDelco-13577394

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-13577.../dp/B01GQR9HFY

From what I've read and been told the smaller sensor like mine "should" read temp as well. The sensor I have is 3/8" fittings but the Dorman quick release is a 3/8" connector but 5/16" fuel line barb. I went with the smaller sensor due to packaging. I ran a similar sensor from Penguin Tech Racing on my other FRS before and from what I could tell did everything it needs to for the fa20.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

From what I've read and been told the smaller sensor like mine "should" read temp as well. The sensor I have is 3/8" fittings but the Dorman quick release is a 3/8" connector but 5/16" fuel line barb. I went with the smaller sensor due to packaging. I ran a similar sensor from Penguin Tech Racing on my other FRS before and from what I could tell did everything it needs to for the fa20.

Interesting, I wonder why they make so many varieties then?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Interesting, I wonder why they make so many varieties then?

This is all based on what I've read and I'm not an expert by any means. Packaging is the only difference between each model. Whether by having holes already in the sensor not necessitating a bracket or those without holes that require a bracket for mounting. Also some have longer or shorter fuel tubes.

[Irace86.2.0]

I see, so either pay for a cheaper sensor, but then have to buy a bracket, or just pay more for the sensor with the bracket. Either way, probably cheaper to piece these things together.

[captain awesome]

Having major issues with my oil temp sensor as well as coolant. Odd that both would have any issues as the coolant temp sensor ohms match the heat range I tested it at. The Bosch oil sensor reads pressure just fine so weird that temp would be a problem. I haven't tested ohms to temp yet but will in a minute. Also my MAP sensor is reading around -78 kpa at about 1300 rpm or so. My idle won't drop probably because both temp sensor readouts are trash.


Ugh.


I've sent a message to Kpower to see if they can help rule out possible issues but other than plugging in their harness which can only be done one way there shouldn't be much I could have screwed up. I do know the coolant temp sensor on the k24 was working before I pulled the engine from the donor. Odds that it's bad seem really low. Also really weird that the oil temp sensor would be doing the same.


One thing I did confirm is that the fans only kick on during defrost using heater only. That's a relief. Now if I could get things to read right I could drive my dang car!

[dragoontwo]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

One thing I did confirm is that the fans only kick on during defrost using heater only. That's a relief. Now if I could get things to read right I could drive my dang car!

Glad you at least figured that one out. Gotta think simple sometimes.

[captain awesome]

Just looked at my A and B connectors to compare to the Haltech I/O pinout. Guess what is missing a pin? B4 which just so happens to be for coolant temp. WTF? Still doesn't explain the oil temp sensor, but with one wire missing who knows what else is missing on the jumper or pinned wrong. Also half the colors I am comparing to the I/O doesn't match Kpower wires going into those connectors.


So I sent an email to John at Kpower to see what we need to do. For now I'm not starting the car again. I'll be pulling the stock ECM and jumper stuff to get a better look at if needed for Kpower's clarification.

[Irace86.2.0]

I hate figuring out wiring problems. I like building harnesses. I converted a MIG welder to use a spool gun by doing a custom wiring harness. Fun, not fun. Hopefully your situation is resolvable and not pervasive across all these harnesses.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I hate figuring out wiring problems. I like building harnesses. I converted a MIG welder to use a spool gun by doing a custom wiring harness. Fun, not fun. Hopefully your situation is resolvable and not pervasive across all these harnesses.

I have enjoyed some wiring projects before. I think this stuff is kinda out of my league at the moment. So far I've already learned a bunch just trying to get things figured out. Hopefully it's something simple and ends up being nothing to do with Kpower's harness. I probably should have held off posting about it until I could confirm, but I'm not above asking for help and I'm kinda impatient.

[Irace86.2.0]

Is the grey chassis harness clip not used? This black plug on the new harness is just floating there, right?

[MST Engineer]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I have enjoyed some wiring projects before. I think this stuff is kinda out of my league at the moment. So far I've already learned a bunch just trying to get things figured out. Hopefully it's something simple and ends up being nothing to do with Kpower's harness. I probably should have held off posting about it until I could confirm, but I'm not above asking for help and I'm kinda impatient.

Let me know what they say. I have been struggling to get my car started all weekend and found that MAP sensor, oil temp and pressure voltages showing in Haltech make no sence. Also found that no spark on CYL1 with known good coil and plug. I will be calling them tomorrow.

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