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Old 11-12-2018, 05:31 PM   #1
Kitty
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ABS and traction control light

My FRS recently just started having the ABS and traction control light come on after I hit the brakes. It goes off if I turn on and off and if I dont hit the brakes right away. It also messes with my cruise control and it burns out the fuse to my brake lights.

I know thats alot but has anyone else had to deal with this and how did you fix it?

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Old 11-12-2018, 05:33 PM   #2
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Did you put led lights in anywhere?

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Old 11-12-2018, 05:36 PM   #3
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Yeah my headlights but they were running fine for a year before this happen.
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:37 PM   #4
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Oh ok, I put the wrong leds in my license plate light and the same thing happened

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Old 11-12-2018, 06:22 PM   #5
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I had to install resistors inline with my LED lights. I had the Stop fuse blow... LEDs are very efficiant, the car sees them as a direct short compared to an incandecent bulb. why the resistor is needed.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:45 PM   #6
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Oh ok, I put the wrong leds in my license plate light and the same thing happened

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I retract my last statement after a long outline of how long ago and how long I had her in storage. After two months of getting her out of storage she started having that problem.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:48 PM   #7
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I had to install resistors inline with my LED lights. I had the Stop fuse blow... LEDs are very efficiant, the car sees them as a direct short compared to an incandecent bulb. why the resistor is needed.
what type of resistors did you use? And do you have pictures?
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:45 PM   #8
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just do a google search for led resistors.
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Old 11-13-2018, 02:20 AM   #9
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Google this topic, this is not uncommon. Typically due to damaged ABS sensors, or more potentially a bad brake light switch by the brake pedal
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:05 AM   #10
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I had to install resistors inline with my LED lights. I had the Stop fuse blow... LEDs are very efficiant, the car sees them as a direct short compared to an incandecent bulb. why the resistor is needed.
A couple things that are probably right on your car but worded wrong above. LED are seen as an open circuit due to the low current draw. The best option is to replace the flasher with one designed for LED’s. If not the resistors need to be installed in parallel to the LED’s. If you had the stop fuse blow due to an LED installation there is an issue with the LED or circuit.
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:25 AM   #11
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A couple things that are probably right on your car but worded wrong above. LED are seen as an open circuit due to the low current draw. The best option is to replace the flasher with one designed for LED’s. If not the resistors need to be installed in parallel to the LED’s. If you had the stop fuse blow due to an LED installation there is an issue with the LED or circuit.
I work with LEDs. I made my own lighting. I used a adj resistor, tested its ohm load, and replaced it with a standard resistor. So, its custom. And, my resistors are in series.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:48 AM   #12
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I work with LEDs. I made my own lighting. I used a adj resistor, tested its ohm load, and replaced it with a standard resistor. So, its custom. And, my resistors are in series.
Can you post you wire diagram and component specs? That would narrow down if the issue is somewhere else than you lights.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:59 AM   #13
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Can you post you wire diagram and component specs? That would narrow down if the issue is somewhere else than you lights.


I don't have an issue. OP, does. I was just saying that if our cars have the wrong resistance for the lighting; it can blow fuses. And that the ohm load of an incandescent bulb is much higher than an efficient LED. (or group of LEDs in series)


You can direct hook 4 three volt LEDs in series to a 12v circuit. But, the voltage to our cars jumps to 14.5v when the car is started. Thus the need for a resistor, so as not to overdrive the (small) LEDs I am using. I 'm using 18 5mm LEDs in a series / parallel configuration with a resistor in one location. I have different configurations in different locations.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:37 AM   #14
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I don't have an issue. OP, does. I was just saying that if our cars have the wrong resistance for the lighting; it can blow fuses. And that the ohm load of an incandescent bulb is much higher than an efficient LED. (or group of LEDs in series)


You can direct hook 4 three volt LEDs in series to a 12v circuit. But, the voltage to our cars jumps to 14.5v when the car is started. Thus the need for a resistor, so as not to overdrive the (small) LEDs I am using. I 'm using 18 5mm LEDs in a series / parallel configuration with a resistor in one location. I have different configurations in different locations.
My bad got my OP crossed. 99% of the time when people talk about installing LED they are buying lamp replacements with the voltage regulator build into the base. Not like you that purchased raw LED’s and yes needing to control the voltage to them with a dropping resistor or regulator.
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