Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by B T

I don't remember having any trouble snaking my hand in from the passenger rear side of the blower to get the line on, but could be wrong.

So I started installing both catch cans this weekend. I am getting an air leak on the PCV valve on the supercharger. It is very audible and you can hear the impact on idle.

[video showing location](https://imgur.com/a/HITUims)

The oem hose is a smaller diameter than the supplied radium hose which I suspect is why it is occurring. I am fairly certain I followed directions carefully because the smaller diameter hose supplied was used on the top port of the can but the straight port uses the larger diameter hose which connects to where I am getting the leak.

What did you guys do to resolve this? Maybe I need to go out and buy an adapter?

[dpfarr]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

So I started installing both catch cans this weekend. I am getting an air leak on the PCV valve on the supercharger. It is very audible and you can hear the impact on idle.

[video showing location](https://imgur.com/a/HITUims)

The oem hose is a smaller diameter than the supplied radium hose which I suspect is why it is occurring. I am fairly certain I followed directions carefully because the smaller diameter hose supplied was used on the top port of the can but the straight port uses the larger diameter hose which connects to where I am getting the leak.

What did you guys do to resolve this? Maybe I need to go out and buy an adapter?

Did you do installation with blower installed?

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

Did you do installation with blower installed?

Yes, I was able to connect the lines with the blower installed. It wasn't easy, but it can be finessed.

CSG Mike recommended I try a step down barbed fitting from 1/2 in to 3/8 using the OEM and Radium hoses to fix the leak. I am going to try that tomorrow and hopefully resolve the problem.

[Jeff86]

Well I’m definitely in need of a stronger clutch. It is not holding the power at wot on a tank of E85 whatsoever. I have a competition stage 4, 6 puck on my Acura. Is that a good option for this platform? What’s the most streetable that will hold 350 whp these days?

[Jeff86]

Originally Posted by SOCON

I appreciate the feedback from this question.
Of the many ways to skin this cat, this is the solution I ended up with. A Harbor Freight engine support ~80 bucks. Was able to remove six bolts securing S/C to head and lift ~3 inches to easily remove slave cylinder bolts and transmission electrical connections. Did not have to remove any coolant, vacuum, or plugs. Woo Hoo! I only wish the rest of clutch replacement had gone so well

Thank you SOCON! Totally getting one of these before clutch install

[dpfarr]

It is my understanding that only the pcv catch is necessary? The other side is normally empty?

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

It is my understanding that only the pcv catch is necessary? The other side is normally empty?

That is what I have been seeing throughout this thread however CSG Zach shared with me some information regarding this subject for FI cars. I hope it is acceptable to share this with you all:



"It is necessary to clean it again (MAF) because it is being continually *fouled*, over and over and over. If not by the filter which you seem to have ruled out, then by the high flow CCV (Crank Case Vent) that plugs into the back port of the Edelbrock airbox. At anything more than atmospheric pressure, that is pushing spent crankcase gasses at pretty high velocity straight from the crankcase to the airbox, and that all has to flow past the MAF in order for the engine to burn it off again in the next combustion cycle. This is good for emissions, but shit for drivability, particularly when your engine load calculation is MAF based as it is on the 86/BRZ.

It is for this reason that cleaning the MAF continually normalizes your car until you've driven long enough for it to work itself into unhappiness again. It takes time for that blowby to re-foul the MAF. I've been putting a lot more effort into a bit of a case study in the last month or two, and it's appearing to me that boosted FA20 tend to have pretty damn high blowby from that CCV vent. All boosted FA20 running MAF based tuning can thus strongly benefit from a CCV based catch can like Radium's, ideally vented to atmosphere rather than recirculating: https://www.counterspacegarage.com/r...-frs-toyota-86

It is definitely a case by case basis for blow by on these cars, but there is no doubt that boost increases the flow output on that port substantially. In the past I recommended catch cans only to cars visibly exhibiting blow by, but now we can pretty much directly correlate it to the continual MAF fouling on what Edelbrock claim is a dry and not oiled filter."



With that out of the way, installing the catch cans taught me an important skill for listening for air leaks. It seems when the car switches from DI to PI, the air leak whistle becomes louder and correlates with the short term fuel trim fluctuating. I have most likely had an airleak this entire time causing my car to run like shit. I'm about 90% sure. Going to do a smoke test next to see where it maybe...

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Jeff86

Well I’m definitely in need of a stronger clutch. It is not holding the power at wot on a tank of E85 whatsoever. I have a competition stage 4, 6 puck on my Acura. Is that a good option for this platform? What’s the most streetable that will hold 350 whp these days?

Value: ACT HDSS

Nice: CSG Spec OS Giken single disc (includes fork and throwout bearing upgrade)

[FrickingReallySlow]

Curious are you on a stock block with E85+EBSC?

Originally Posted by Jeff86

Well I’m definitely in need of a stronger clutch. It is not holding the power at wot on a tank of E85 whatsoever. I have a competition stage 4, 6 puck on my Acura. Is that a good option for this platform? What’s the most streetable that will hold 350 whp these days?

[Jeff86]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Value: ACT HDSS

Nice: CSG Spec OS Giken single disc (includes fork and throwout bearing upgrade)

Thank you for the help! Does either option utilize the stock flywheel? I've always understood that lighter weight flywheels are not advantageous for boost, but that may be my thinking coming from the turbo world.

[Jeff86]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Curious are you on a stock block with E85+EBSC?

For now, yes. I completely built the k20a2 in my other car and had it in a million pieces on tables in my garage for several months while a shop did my bottom end work. I'm not in a huge hurry to do it again lol. If I pop the motor, well that will change things. I do understand boost is controlled with your foot, however, so I'm trying to be gentle... mostly. I'm flexfuel as well so I can drop to pump gas if I'm feeling nervous.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Jeff86

Thank you for the help! Does either option utilize the stock flywheel? I've always understood that lighter weight flywheels are not advantageous for boost, but that may be my thinking coming from the turbo world.

No, both are complete replacements.

[Jeff86]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

No, both are complete replacements.

I'm a little afraid that high rpms could slip on a 270 tq clutch (ACT HDSS). The OS Giken seems a better choice at 300. I'm also interested in the ACT XTSS. It seems quite up to the task if it isn't a pain to drive. What are your thoughts on that option?

[B T]

I have the ACT HDSS on my 450 hp setup and haven't had any issues. It has slipped when I've let other people drive, but they just aren't used to engagement window. I've had both a used unit and brand new unit with the 12 lb flywheel. Just don't use that moneyshift racing hydraulic throwout with it, that tore up my pressure plate (still using it though).