FRS BRZ STOCK UNTOUCHED MOTOR, someone found sealent in their oil pick up mesh!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by 1234eher

The strands should be caught in the filter, but I'm worried about it causing damage on its way up there, clogging channels or damaging oil pump.

How could this even happen from the factory smh

Like I said, if you have assembled one of these before it is pretty understandable how it could happen. The strands are not going to damage the pump. That is like saying meat is going to damage a meat grinder. The only concern would be it clogging a small orifice if it makes it past the pump. My only big worry would be enough big chunks to clog the pickup.

[1234eher]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Like I said, if you have assembled one of these before it is pretty understandable how it could happen. The strands are not going to damage the pump. That is like saying meat is going to damage a meat grinder. The only concern would be it clogging a small orifice if it makes it past the pump. My only big worry would be enough big chunks to clog the pickup.

Good example, once it gets passed the pump, the oil filter should be able to catch it before it goes through any smaller channels right? From the videos I have been looking at, the oil must go through the filter before lubricating any of the internals.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by 1234eher

Also, what do you think of engine flushes? Needed? Good? Or harmful?

Toyota Canada provides these but I'm almost certain it's not made by Toyota

this is like running laxative through yourself every weekend 'just in case'. how you'd feel is how your motor is going to feel.

don't use it unless you absolutely need it. it removes anything and everything, and consistent use poses more problems than solutions.

[1234eher]

Originally Posted by soundman98

this is like running laxative through yourself every weekend 'just in case'. how you'd feel is how your motor is going to feel.

don't use it unless you absolutely need it. it removes anything and everything, and consistent use poses more problems than solutions.

Good to know! thank you, thankfully I asked the forum since I saw mixed reviews online.

I'm running royal purple on my next change, apparently, it is supposed to be "EXTRA cleaning" so ill probably change it at only 3-4k km

What's your prefered choice for oil and other preventative maintenance?

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by 1234eher

Good to know! thank you, thankfully I asked the forum since I saw mixed reviews online.

I'm running royal purple on my next change, apparently, it is supposed to be "EXTRA cleaning" so ill probably change it at only 3-4k km

What's your prefered choice for oil and other preventative maintenance?

royal purple's main claim to fame is that they add purple dye to the oil. it's like red mountain dew-- not much different than the yellow stuff, just red...

as long as any oil you pick has the SAE seal on it, it's going to work just fine.


this was the first link that popped up, but does a really nice job explaining it:
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/educa...ended-use.html



personally, i use castrol synthetic in my vehicles. i don't really have any specific reason that i keep picking up castrol over any other brand, i just, well, do...

there are minor differences between all the different brands in additive packages, but they all certify to the same SAE standard, and all of them, even the walmart-brand oil, will properly keep the spiny bits spinning.

and finally-- about the 'extra cleaning':
my previous 2 vehicles used variations of a mitsubishi 6g73 v6 motor. it used hydraulic lifters for the valves-- if you're not aware, a hydraulic lifter is basically like a shock absorber for the engine valves. it takes up the slack, and keeps the valves adjusted within a certain tolerance so they open and close a specified amount. they work on oil pressure-- a small stream of oil is pushed into them to make them work.

on that particular engine, it's quite common that when following the maintenance schedule, the lifters will start to get plugged up with sludge, just due to mileage, and when they sludge up, they can't build pressure and start rattling and making noise.

in both cases, i was able to reverse and clean up the sludged up lifters simply by using the car, but maintaining a 2,500-3,000 mile oil change interval over about 4-6 oil changes. it was half the recommended change interval, but helped the cars run smoother than i got them, and i never had to resort to engine flushes.

point is, just about all oil has some 'cleaning' capability. what does oil in is heat, and grime from the combustion cycle-- simply changing it more often best combats this. be extremely skeptical of any oil claiming to have any better properties than any other brand, unless that's backed up with 3rd party testing.

but most importantly, if any oil does have better properties than another oil-- and some have documentation that they do, the primary advantage to those improved capabilities is increased time between changes. if you're concerned about it all, and intend to keep up with your shortened change interval, you will never see any benefit to the better qualities of the oil because you'll never let it be in the car long enough.

it's not all that different from buying tires and replacing them at a specific mileage regardless of a tread wear. a high-traction compound is going stick better and offer the best performance, but likely be completely gone by 15,000 miles. a more general purpose tire is likely going to be barely halfway into it's tread by 15,000 miles-- and then you're just tossing a a perfectly good tire for the sake of fear.


unfortunately, oil is not like tires, where it's easy to see the amount of wear, or the life span still available, which is what makes this so difficult.

that's where something like blackstone labs comes in:
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

get yourself a fumoto oil valve, buy some of their prepaid kits, and send in some of your oil for testing whenever you change it.

their reports are very thorough, and they don't just leave you guessing what all the numbers mean. a quick google shows a bunch of others test results, good, and bad, just as examples of the effort and information they put into every test they send back:
https://www.google.com/search?q=blac...qhcTlcjBFshmiM


from there, you can make the determination of whether it's worth maintaining your current change interval, or altering it one way or another to adjust for your particular usage and comfort level.