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Old 05-01-2021, 07:52 PM   #85
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Thanks @ILLSMOQ for that report. Yes, Im also sensible concerning possible heat issues. I was told to have at least 3/4 of an inch to the exhaust. This is given, and in addition it is "only" the silencer, not the pipe, where I have this distance. As well, 148°C is the specified max temp for this shaft as given from DSS. Based on the coloring, the silencer has 200°C extreme temp, the naked pipe about 280-300, but with much more distance.

Anyway, I will perform test driving with heat measurement by adhessive indicator stripes and as wellfurther measurements after stop to make sure the specs are enheld.

Unfortunately a aluminium shaft, what would have been my favorit, is not possible. I had a 4" Steel shaft before and as you see, it is to large for the 86' tunel. This beeing said, this 4" are still not enough for my Vmax specs. A aluminium shaft would need also 4" diameter to Match the specs. (A proper steel shaft would have been at 4,5 to 5", whats an impossible fitmen.) So I only had the option to stick with carbon.

If I use steel or aluminium in an diameter fitting the tunel I would need to limit the top speed to arround 250kph. A 3.5" aluminium shaft would have no issue to hold the torque at the strip or track racing on a course with not too long straights. But it will not withstand the ~11k rpm @320kph. The 4" Steel shaft was perfectly balance in the beginning, but it started vibrating at 270kph. Once this speed was reached and the vibration started it was a quick process that the vibration started more early, finally at arround 240kph. So I programmed a limiter at 250kph, were the vibrations were as strong as I felt it would be acceptable at least for short poriods.

Well, a speed limiter clearly wasnt my goal for the german Autobahn, so I decided for the carbon shaft...

This is the downside of my concept of using the Magnum F instead of the XL. The F trans is a perfect fit for the chassis, but it requires a longer driveshaft. This in turn causes much more stress for the shaft at Vmax rpm compared to a 10 or 15cm short er version.

If the attempt of the carbon one piece shaft fails, a steel two piece shaft will be the last ressort. But such a driveshaft as custom build pretty complex and still want to avoid this option. But if nothing else works I will have to reactivate the brakets for the center bearing, which I didnt remove from the chassis (even if this would have made some space issues with the exhaust easier) with exactly those thoughts in mind.

From my perspecctive, I dont see it as "usual" build. I try to handle it like an automotive product development, but with much less Budget and for sure different goals. The point is, development includes the possibility to fail and the necessity of further iterations.


.....at least it’s comforting to know that when a carbon shaft has a major failure, it more than likely will shred to bits before causing major collateral damage as opposed to a metal one that will wreak havoc. Good luck sir, nice build
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Old 05-02-2021, 08:28 AM   #86
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True. And thanks for the compliment! Your build looks pretty good too. The radiator installation looks good and 7500rpm on the LS are impressive. Whats your 1/4mile time on a good start? Should be in the mid to low 10th from what I would guess after seeing your video. Somewhere in the upper end of 6xx hp region I would estimate.
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Old 05-02-2021, 10:07 AM   #87
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True. And thanks for the compliment! Your build looks pretty good too. The radiator installation looks good and 7500rpm on the LS are impressive. Whats your 1/4mile time on a good start? Should be in the mid to low 10th from what I would guess after seeing your video. Somewhere in the upper end of 6xx hp region I would estimate.
Yes the engine made 680 at the tires so that should be good for deep tens. I haven’t been back to the track yet though.

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Old 05-30-2021, 03:29 PM   #88
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Update concerning the drifeshaft: I placed self adhesive one way temperature measuing stripes arround the crtical areas of the adhered tube ends of the driveshaft to see if the allowed temperature is exceeded. The stripes start at 116C as lowest indicated temp and 154C as maximum. (allowed max temp for the shaft is 148C)

Until now, none of the stripes showed any indication. Just did normal driving and as well tested long ideling to simulate heat soak. Tests under hard driving will follow during the next weeks since I plan a visit on a race track.



Less good news I have for the cluster swap. The facelift cluster caused some issues earlier in combination with the CAN Translator. A software update was meant to improve here. Unfortunately this didnt work out. In contrary it caused further issues with the FL cluster installed. Therefore it improved the fuel usage estimation. So basically everything is fine as long as I stay with the factory pre facelift cluster. But the goal Was to have the facelift cluster and steering wheel. I will see if future software updates might fix this.
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Old 06-01-2021, 12:48 PM   #89
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Great idea on the temp strips
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Old 09-30-2021, 12:56 PM   #90
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It's officials now. Dynoed the LS86 today and finally have an answer for the "how much HP" question. I use to rely on times instead of diagramms, but I also was curious about the numbers. I'm quiet a little surprised that my expectations and calculations are only 2HP off the result. As well I think the numbers are not too bad for a close to bone stock LS3 with shortys, converters, only a Single 3" pipe and a not absolutely optimal airbox.

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Old 10-28-2022, 07:54 PM   #91
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It's been a while since the last post here. The car is running over two years now. Since it's also street legal in Germany now the milage Im putting in it raised dramatically. Im now somewhere between 15-20k miles since the swap.

What I changed during the past 1&1/2 year:

-went back to LS3 factory clutch

-added noise damper into shifter stick

-changed clutch master to a Tilton 75 using a bracket inspired by @spitsnaugle





-added a vented hood for cooling




-equipped the hood with a 3 point remote latch release to avoid the optic of the aerocatches



Short on Insta to show functionality


-changed the oil cooler setup multiple times since I learned that the heat load in the LS engine oil is disproportional high




-added an air scoop for the radiator (radiator ducting)




-developed a cold air scoop for my custom airbox




-developed a rear diffuser to improve highspeed behaviour and reduce drag




-improved the heas unit a little to make better use of the in board OBD diagnostics




Note that I didnt update the parts list based on those findings and improvements. If I somewhen have the time and will I might catch up in that.

The build also is taking quiet a bit of punishment. Besides "test drives" I do relatively often, for example for high Speed testing and improving handling, noise development and top speeds (car has already managed to went past 300kph/185mph) I participate at number of drift events the past season.







I also get invitations for a few car shows and a video shoot with a Youtuber which is pretty well known here in Germany.





Last but not least it should be mentioned that we also completed a realtively far holiday trip with the car. We visited the balearic islands, what is a 1400km/~900miles trip per direction. Actualy this was already the second time WE passed this trip with the swapped car.




Worth to mention: There where no major issues or break downs since the swap. Most critical situation was some overheating issues I expierienced during our first holiday trip to warm southern Europe back in the days. But this was adressed quiet a while ago. Everything I did since then was for further improvement based on the testing I did, what I would consider as realtively hard. The Car already proved to be a very reliable daily driver. Also it performs great as a drifter and street sports car. Now Im in the process to get this basis of a fully equiped, reliable and relatively comfortable car combined with a bullet-proof for racing characteristic.
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Old 10-29-2022, 12:05 AM   #92
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Nice stuff. I have the same hood on my wish list. Seibon? I might need to steal your latch technique if I ever get it.
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Old 10-29-2022, 04:33 PM   #93
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Thanks mate! It's glass fiber reinforced plastic. Geometrical it's mostly identical to the seibon hood. But carbon fiber hoods are more or less impossible to be accepted on a road car in Germany. There is a guy here in Germany who builds them and also has some certificates for it, so it can be accepted by the officials.
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Old 10-31-2022, 03:17 PM   #94
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Thanks mate! It's glass fiber reinforced plastic. Geometrical it's mostly identical to the seibon hood. But carbon fiber hoods are more or less impossible to be accepted on a road car in Germany. There is a guy here in Germany who builds them and also has some certificates for it, so it can be accepted by the officials.
This is one of my favorite build threads on this site. Love the amount of detail you have put in this thread!
185mph on this chassis is VERY impressive!
Also impressed with the hood design (I have the Seibon CF Hood)
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Old 11-01-2022, 08:34 AM   #95
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Old 03-05-2023, 04:43 AM   #96
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Did a further upgrade of the oil cooling. Now a second Setrab cooler is mounted and ducted above the crash beam. Also the final version of my CAI matching the whole ducting concept came in. Overall about 40" wide 14 row oil cooler, everything under an unmodified factory bumper and with an unmodified factory crash beam. Calculation wise it provides about 70kW heat disipation at 60mph. Hope this makes the oil temps bullet proof for track days and High Speed Runs at German Autobahn.

Wasnt able to test drive due to seasonal plates are with April, but Im already pretty happy that nearly everything lined up pretty well with the first shot of this design. Though, when the other projects calm down a little a will manufacture one more reworked version with all the last little flaws taken care of. But now there isnt time to think about that since start of season is near and the to-do-list still is foot long.







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Old 03-05-2023, 05:18 AM   #97
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I’d be tempted to use a red sharpie to adjust the redline

Also, I thought one could adjust the gear ratios in the indicator, or at least deactivate it so that it isn’t lost.

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Old 03-05-2023, 05:56 AM   #98
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I’d be tempted to use a red sharpie to adjust the redline
Nah, I plan for another attempt. Adjust the engine, not the cluster...

Cam, valvetrain and timing chain shall be Upgrades in the future. Might not 7.5k, but think close is possible.
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