SCCA Solo D Street discussion

[strat61caster]

+1 pick up any '13-'16 car do a few events and then jump into SSC.

You stand a better chance in DS hoping for a course that favors the lighter nimbler car that doesn't give the turbo cars an advantage digging out of slow corners and you driving the wheels off it. The ND is just better then the 86 in every category so all things being equal the ND will almost always be faster.

[Balefire]

Originally Posted by Biggins

SSC is probably your best option with a 2013-2016 FR-S/BRZ. Everyone has the same equipment and you can see how well you improve each event.


It depends on your region's competition whether you will be "competitive" in CS or DS. A BRZ tS still will not be as good of an option as an FR-S/86 with the TRD parts in CS which will not be as good as the RX-8/S2000 which will not be as good as an ND2 MX-5. You will learn and may be competitive if your region does not have any/many of these cars that are well driven in CS. DS is the same story as CS but much more course dependency that will 90% of time favor the high horsepower rally cars. I ran DS for a couple years but hated the ride height of my car and switched back to CS this year (TRD FR-S).

Has anyone similarly tried running a BRZ TS in DS by removing parts?
How much different is the BRZ TS than a BRZ PP?
Spoiler?
Springs?

My silly son really likes the TS spoiler

[Breezio]

Originally Posted by Balefire

Has anyone similarly tried running a BRZ TS in DS by removing parts?
How much different is the BRZ TS than a BRZ PP?
Spoiler?
Springs?

My silly son really likes the TS spoiler

There are many differences. Enough that it's not reasonable (or maybe even possible) to remove all the parts and make it 'legal' as a non-TS BRZ.

Don't worry about the classing. If you want to run in Street class, get a TS and run CS class, or get a non-TS and run DS. In the grand scheme of things it won't matter. You'll have a great time either way.

[SCFD]

How much gas is left in the tank when the gas light comes on? The needle looks like it still has a ways to go before reaching "E".

Will I run into fuel starvation problems if I'm running down to "E" on an autocross course?

[TMF]

Originally Posted by SCFD

How much gas is left in the tank when the gas light comes on? The needle looks like it still has a ways to go before reaching "E".

Will I run into fuel starvation problems if I'm running down to "E" on an autocross course?

You can run it til it's darn near dry on pump gas in autox. The needle goes a bit past the E line.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by Balefire

i realize the Mazda Miata / S2000 in CS and the Civic Type R in DS are the class leaders but we need to work on our skills first.
but i'd like to minimize our losses.
how far off the pace is the BRZ Ts in CS and the BRZ w/ PP in DS?

For what it's worth, I can beat NDs most of the time in my PP version in DS with only A052's and no front swaybar (yet). Good drivers in those Miatas too, some of which do very well at national/regional champ events.


The BRZ vs a CTR in DS isn't a fair battle at all and I have no idea what the SCCA was thinking. In my region (Steel Cities.... very competitive), we have about 5-6 CTRs on a normal day with good drivers and I can usually beat 2 of them. The others tend to be a second or even more ahead of me. But keep in mind we're talking about current and former national champions here.



Keep in mind I can out raw time CS, but can't come close in my region in DS. I went to another region with no CTRs and won DS.


DS's PAX is easier than CS, so you'll finish better overall in DS, but I argue you have more fun competing in class in CS vs Miatas, S2000's, etc because they're much more closely matched to the BRZ than a CTR. I had a blast last year in CS learning the car on crap tires usually up in the 1-3 spots battling it out.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by SCFD

How much gas is left in the tank when the gas light comes on? The needle looks like it still has a ways to go before reaching "E".

Will I run into fuel starvation problems if I'm running down to "E" on an autocross course?

IMO, running on E or with the fuel light on is a bit much. I run anything from 1/4 to 1/2. It's weight, but it's low in the car and the difference is 30-50lbs depending on how much 'extra' you have in there. Its just not worth it to be shaving that kind of weight. Some events I even run over 1/2, but plan not to run full if I can.

I do remove the spare tire and tools from the back.

[cmiovino]

I don't post every event here, but this was from day one of the two day event this past weekend. I finally broke the top quarter in PAX at Steel Cities!... finally, ha.

The best time in CS was 55.677 out of 9 drivers there for perspective. This was a 54.834, which put me 6 out of 7 in DS. All other cars in DS were CTRs and the top 3 all had 52.XXX, one almost into the 51 range. It's nuts and I still think the CTR shouldn't be in DS... it's more like a BS car.

Day 2 wasn't as good and favored higher HP cars being more of a wide open course. Still landed 30/99 in PAX.

[Balefire]

So a 2017 PP BRZ is on the way for my not so little guy.
Chose this over 2013-2016 SSC compatible BRZs because I don't want to mod it right away to SSC class.
I'd like my son to earn every mod. And feel the difference with every mod like I did once upon a time.
Easier to do this in DS.
And he can always mod to STX if he gets really addicted and competitive.

So first mod he will have to earn will be OE crash bolts and an alignment.
Is there any other secret to getting max camber in this car?

Second mod will be tires +/- wheels.
Is 225 the widest anyone runs? 235?
Is anyone running 18x7.5? Why not?

Lastly I read the STI short shifter was port installed. Anyone running this?
What about the STI springs? Port installed?

[SCFD]

Originally Posted by Balefire

So a 2017 PP BRZ is on the way for my not so little guy.
Chose this over 2013-2016 SSC compatible BRZs because I don't want to mod it right away to SSC class.
I'd like my son to earn every mod. And feel the difference with every mod like I did once upon a time.
Easier to do this in DS.
And he can always mod to STX if he gets really addicted and competitive.

So first mod he will have to earn will be OE crash bolts and an alignment.
Is there any other secret to getting max camber in this car?

Second mod will be tires +/- wheels.
Is 225 the widest anyone runs? 235?
Is anyone running 18x7.5? Why not?

Lastly I read the STI short shifter was port installed. Anyone running this?
What about the STI springs? Port installed?

I wish I had the PP BRZ in order to get a better selection of aftermarket wheels. I haven't looked in 18" tire/wheel availability but I would guess the reason people don't go with that combo is weight and cost.

With the OE crash bolts, I was able to get -1.2*/-1.1*. I think this is the max that people usually get.

The STI short shifter being a port installed option is news to me. If somebody can confirm this is legal for D Street on a 2020 BRZ then it will eventually end up on my mod list.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by Balefire

So a 2017 PP BRZ is on the way for my not so little guy.
Chose this over 2013-2016 SSC compatible BRZs because I don't want to mod it right away to SSC class.
I'd like my son to earn every mod. And feel the difference with every mod like I did once upon a time.
Easier to do this in DS.
And he can always mod to STX if he gets really addicted and competitive.

So first mod he will have to earn will be OE crash bolts and an alignment.
Is there any other secret to getting max camber in this car?

Second mod will be tires +/- wheels.
Is 225 the widest anyone runs? 235?
Is anyone running 18x7.5? Why not?

Lastly I read the STI short shifter was port installed. Anyone running this?
What about the STI springs? Port installed?

I run 225's, but from what I gather, back in the day when the twins were competitive in street class before the ND, people were running 245/4017 on 7.0" wheels with the max offset allowed 41-42mm. I think a lot were running 17x7.5 42mm offset RPF1's.

Problem is the spokes won't clear Brembos with the new performance packs.

18" tends to start becoming heavy and not needed for autox. Tire prices also go up with 18" vs 17".

My personal setup is 225/45/17 A052's on the stock wheels with a 3mm spacer (the spacer was unnecessary, but I thought the A052's would run wide). OEM camber/crash bolts with 1.2* camber in the front, zero toe all around.... and the secret sauce, a Blitz air filter.

I'd say keep the OEM wheels, put on some 225 Falkens (cheaper than the Yoks) and do the alignment with the allowable bolts. That will be plenty for your son to toy with learning. Some would even argue a 200TW is too much for a new driver and you should start with something like the Conti ECS. I kinda of agree.

Originally Posted by SCFD

I wish I had the PP BRZ in order to get a better selection of aftermarket wheels.

I'd say it's just the opposite. You might think here are more 7.5" out there than 7.0"... and there might be, but the problem you then run into is finding a 7.5" that fits over the Brembos. For example, RPF1's are out the window and many others. 5x100 comes to play too.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

I run 225's, but from what I gather, back in the day when the twins were competitive in street class before the ND, people were running 245/4017 on 7.0" wheels with the max offset allowed 41-42mm. I think a lot were running 17x7.5 42mm offset RPF1's.

Ogburn had 225s when he won his jacket.

I ran 245s primarily for better ProSolo launches. I was 1-2 tenths faster than any other twin to 60', per side.

[Locust]

Originally Posted by SCFD

How much gas is left in the tank when the gas light comes on? The needle looks like it still has a ways to go before reaching "E".

Will I run into fuel starvation problems if I'm running down to "E" on an autocross course?

Between 1.5 and 2 gallons remaining. When in Street spec I ran entire events with fuel light on all the time. The only issue is when you try to balance that for full weekend events the gauge will not update until you have 3+ gallons more than what it's reading. If you continue to add 1 gallon at a time after every session it won't budge; presumably this is to account for different readings from parking on hills, etc.

If you tune the car I wouldn't run it beyond fuel light and if you're on a concrete site you should consider adding a little to account for the extra G-forces that might result in fuel starve.

[Locust]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

IMO, running on E or with the fuel light on is a bit much. I run anything from 1/4 to 1/2. It's weight, but it's low in the car and the difference is 30-50lbs depending on how much 'extra' you have in there. Its just not worth it to be shaving that kind of weight. Some events I even run over 1/2, but plan not to run full if I can.

I do remove the spare tire and tools from the back.

In street spec 50lbs is about one and a half 10ths of a second per 60 second course. It makes a difference. My co-driver and I averaged out runs with/without a 200lb passenger and it was roughly six 10ths. Take from that what you will. I'm of the opinion that if you pay the big bucks for national events you shouldn't leave any thousandths on the table.