08-23-2019, 11:20 AM | #547 | |
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09-24-2019, 12:33 PM | #548 |
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I have autocrossed my 86 twice with mixed results. The first event was with camber bolts and everything else stock. The car was very drifty on throttle. The second event I added a Perrin 22mm front bar (full soft) and RE71rs. The car became very pushy and wouldn’t rotate under throttle at all. I am thinking about going back to the stock front bar to get more rotation. What do you think?
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09-24-2019, 12:38 PM | #549 | |
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Sway bar options, as I recall, I think the need for a bigger front bar is course dependent....lots of transitions/slaloms=bigger front bar. More long sweepers= stock front bar. Expensive, but very adjustable: http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=136
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09-24-2019, 02:45 PM | #550 |
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Front bar is pretty common, most go milder than you did with a 19/20mm bar, you probably went too far. User preference at this point, going back to stock bar with a bit more toe in seems like the funner solution to me.
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09-24-2019, 03:08 PM | #551 | |
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09-24-2019, 03:16 PM | #552 |
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If you thought the Karcepts setup as packaged is too much bar rate, you could replace the center splined bar with one with a thinner wall. I think .12" and .095" walls are also common.... though that probably puts you towards the other end of having a lot of adjustments that you probably don't want.
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09-26-2019, 03:01 PM | #553 | |
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09-26-2019, 04:48 PM | #554 | |
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At 2 events in a new platform, both with very different setups (OE to RE/big bar is a big jump), I'm still closer to making sure the install went correctly/as-intended before I'm wondering if I made the wrong choices. There's a couple other adjustment knobs available in Street. Did you play with tire pressure?
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09-26-2019, 06:55 PM | #555 | |
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10-01-2019, 12:29 PM | #556 | |
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OEM crash bolts. I am not sure what the camber is. I was running 35psi square. The car felt great in slaloms and transitions. It pushed in turn arounds and big sweepers. I am looking at the TRD bars. |
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10-01-2019, 12:31 PM | #557 | |
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I haven't played with pressure. It started raining after 3 runs, so I didn't adjust anything. The sway bar install went fine. |
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10-02-2019, 11:42 AM | #558 |
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10-02-2019, 01:59 PM | #559 | |
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Keeping the back end behind me with a stock front bar would probably make me want to run a fair amount of toe-in at the rear. Going to a big bar and nothing else means that I now have too much toe-in at the rear, because the toe was to tame the rear end, but the new bigger bar does that too, so you have to re-balance the car. Which means finding a balance. Which means trying things to make something work. Including the driver making accommodations. "Feels like a dump truck/It's trying to kill me, but I'm faster." Not many folks can nail the settings on a new setup in 3 runs. So, yeah. Maybe go through the time/effort to gather some more data before making the next change.
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10-03-2019, 03:57 PM | #560 |
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35 PSI is way too high. That's what I run my cars at for daily driving...
If you're on the crash bolts you should be in the realm of -1.0 to -1.8 camber in the front and your rears are probably stuck right around -0.8 and won't ever move. You can use toe to play with the turn-in a little but you're pretty far off on all the rest so I would go with 0 toe all around for now and focus on getting the right parts on the right ends of the car. Since this is D-Street you're limited to OEM rear bar so your 22mm is too much for the front. Most people go 20mm and a tiny bit of rear toe in. A 22mm worked when the TRD rear bar was allowed. My pressures that I ran on RE71R were 28 front / 26 rear. BFG was 29 front / 26 rear. That was with a 20mm whiteline FSB and off the shelf Koni yellows (with the mandatory centering washer). You can adjust a little up or down for your setup and driving preferences but if you're running a square pressure setup then something is off. I can't recall a highly competitive car that wasn't running staggered pressures.
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