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Old 10-14-2019, 06:45 PM   #1
Shahano
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LS3 BRZ cooling

So I finally took part in my first drift event, and couldnt be happier with the swap. The throttle response, is amazing, the power is amazing, car feels great. Will put up a vid in the monring to show you some footage.

The problem I am having is keeping the car cool enough for 2 laps. Drifting one lap and the coolant temp is already at 230f. Looking for ideas that you guys have done to resolve this issue. I am running the biggest possible radiator that would fit on the car. Not sure what else to do.
0 problems with oil temp as Im running a dry sump.
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:31 PM   #2
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The main problems with heat drifting particularly implements are.

Generally lower speeds = less airflow
Being sideways = less airflow
Constant high revs = high temps.

Best measures to counter these problems in addition to what you've done would be.

Hood vents/louvres to help reduce engine bay temps.
Upgraded fans as the limited airflow coming in the front when drifting wont suffice.
Running 1 or 2 additional radiators in tandem behind each side fog light with dedicated fans for those.
Blocking off areas to channel and focus all incoming airflow directly to radiator
Using WMI to keep engine/combustion temps and IAT down could potentially help slow and delay coolant temps.
Upgrade radiator hoses to thicker more insulated ones to prevent or delay heatsoak might help a little as well.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:09 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
The main problems with heat drifting particularly implements are.

Generally lower speeds = less airflow
Being sideways = less airflow
Constant high revs = high temps.

Best measures to counter these problems in addition to what you've done would be.

Hood vents/louvres to help reduce engine bay temps.
Upgraded fans as the limited airflow coming in the front when drifting wont suffice.
Running 1 or 2 additional radiators in tandem behind each side fog light with dedicated fans for those.
Blocking off areas to channel and focus all incoming airflow directly to radiator
Using WMI to keep engine/combustion temps and IAT down could potentially help slow and delay coolant temps.
Upgrade radiator hoses to thicker more insulated ones to prevent or delay heatsoak might help a little as well.
I already have hood vents, along with an updgraded radiators and durale upgraded Single fan.
I donít have additional radiators on each side or in tandem. Do you know anyone who has done that previously? Would love to learn more.
Also have upgraded hoses already .
Can you please explain what you mean by WMI?

This will be a real problem with this car. Very eager to find a solution.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:18 AM   #4
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As promised, here is my first test video, please excuse the quality as it was taken from my phone.

The car following me is a modified Evo 6.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:26 AM   #5
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How many cores is your radiator? You need a SPAL or equivalent fan, not Derale.

I ran an LS with a rear radiator with NO airflow aside from the fan and never had a temperature problem.

Mine was a 4 core radiator, SPAL fan, Hypertech 180 Thermostat, Stock Water Pump
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shahano View Post
I already have hood vents, along with an updgraded radiators and durale upgraded Single fan.
I donít have additional radiators on each side or in tandem. Do you know anyone who has done that previously? Would love to learn more.
Also have upgraded hoses already .
Can you please explain what you mean by WMI?

This will be a real problem with this car. Very eager to find a solution.
Its not common but possible, you just add 1 hose per radiator, you'll need to come up with some sort of "custom" hosing obviously but shouldn't be too hard to figure out. This is sort of a last resort.

WMI = water methanol injection, will keep combustion and intake temps down quite a bit. Everything eventually heat soaks, so lowering any temp should help overall temps at least a little.

The other option as was mentioned is relocating radiator to the trunk, then you can get a massive radiator, multiple fans have a complete custom setup that should really resolve all your issues. This may be the best solution since you have already implemented so many other things with no luck.
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:10 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by TunaNoCrust View Post
How many cores is your radiator? You need a SPAL or equivalent fan, not Derale.

I ran an LS with a rear radiator with NO airflow aside from the fan and never had a temperature problem.

Mine was a 4 core radiator, SPAL fan, Hypertech 180 Thermostat, Stock Water Pump
Could you send me the link to both your radiator and fan? Would be very interested. @TunaNoCrust
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Old 10-15-2019, 02:30 PM   #8
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I don't remember the radiator, I bought it at a swap meet. It was a 4 core Griffin and I think a single 18" fan.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...2049/overview/

What is your temperature before you go on track? If you are out there for 30-60 seconds, it should not hit 230, these motors tend not to run that hot in my experiences. I never have seen mine get over 215 and I have flogged mine savagely for 4-5 minutes hill killing.

What is your A/F ratio at those rpms? Are you using underdrive crank pulley? What is your thermostat?

I don't suggest rear mounted, it is a lot of work. Mine was done due to space restrictions.
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Old 10-15-2019, 05:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunaNoCrust View Post
I don't remember the radiator, I bought it at a swap meet. It was a 4 core Griffin and I think a single 18" fan.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...2049/overview/

What is your temperature before you go on track? If you are out there for 30-60 seconds, it should not hit 230, these motors tend not to run that hot in my experiences. I never have seen mine get over 215 and I have flogged mine savagely for 4-5 minutes hill killing.

What is your A/F ratio at those rpms? Are you using underdrive crank pulley? What is your thermostat?

I don't suggest rear mounted, it is a lot of work. Mine was done due to space restrictions.
Definitely will not go with a rear mounter as it is just too much work. At idle, my car is consistently at 180 degrees F, but after just one lap flocking it on a drift track (Slow track with not a lot of air coming in. video in previous post), the temperature very rapidly reached 230 degrees at which point I had to do an immediate cooldown.
My mechanic also told me that he is not happy with the durale and he suspects this to be the problem.
What is the difference between the durale and the spal you sent me?
Here is a link to the one I currently have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16821
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Old 10-15-2019, 05:48 PM   #10
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Ok 180 is correct, I am concerned with how quick it is getting up to temp.

The Spal is just a superior fan in both quality and output. For your fan, are you using the 2 speed feature? How much of the radiator is covered by the fan?
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:12 PM   #11
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The whole radiator is covered by the shroud. I dont think we are using the second speed. I need to see as the ECU doesnt have the option for the second speed. Not sure if we running the fast speed or the slow speed.
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shahano View Post
The whole radiator is covered by the shroud. I dont think we are using the second speed. I need to see as the ECU doesnt have the option for the second speed. Not sure if we running the fast speed or the slow speed.
I got a Koyo radiator with the slim fan option and shroud that is provided by fullblown.

This was not enough for me. I needed to replace both of the slim fans provided (900 CFM Spals) with 1328 CFM spals (these are not super slim, as the motor sticks back a bit). With these fans I have not had any more cooling issues. My thermostat is also a LFE 160 degree.

As a disclaimer, I did not take it to the drift track, but at low speeds and high FL heat, I had not overheating issues. Of course I know your use produces way more heat, but at least some ideas you can try to tackle heat. @Dustin put his radiator at an angle pulling heat away from the radiator but also not into the engine and his setup has also been great against the heat. It also allowed him to keep the stock fans which pull a lot of heat.

Last edited by Sportsguy83; 10-16-2019 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 10-16-2019, 05:30 PM   #13
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We trying a few things. My fan is 2400 cfm and was set on the low speed at 1700 Cfm. So we increasing that to the high speed. We are also adding guides on each side to get more air while drifting.
I will revert back as soon as it's done, probably in the coming 2-3 days.
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