Official FT86Club 3D printing thread!

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Drifter X

Its flat faced.

In that case it would be pretty simple to reconstruct. I don't have a Gen1 to test on so I don't have that part, but if I did I could probably build the 3D model.

What someone needs is to be able to take fairly accurate (within 0.1mm) measurements of the parts including the switches (both OEM and intended additional button/switch).

For FDM printing I imagine you'd want to go with a 2-part design - face for one and the "structure" on the back as a second part. That way you could take advantage of a textured build plate to get a nice finish on the face and still print the structure with the layer lines oriented for best strength.

SLA would naturally side-step that, but fewer people run that type of printer.

I've done similar stuff myself, it takes a bit of experience but not years and years. Fun fact: there are lots of instances where it's better to design something differently than the original piece because of the inherent differences between injection molding (which is how most OEM parts are made) and 3D printing. The key difference being that an injection molded part can't have geometry that would prevent it being removed from the mold, and 3D printing has to account for supporting overhangs and weakness in Z-axis stress points (if FDM).

[J4RF]

Originally Posted by knapper

Great thread! Don't know how I didn't see this before.

On the right, you will see the gas pedal spacer with the pedal limit spacer. Both broke eventually due to using PLA instead of ABS. So, that is one of the reasons you want to use ABS or PETG for this type of application. The bolts eventually started to spin inside the unit, and I had to pry it in half to remove it. Hell of of a lot cheaper than the Verus!

On the the left is a replica of the Perrin trunk handle done in PLU, works perfectly!

https://ibb.co/s9P66M1

Link to Pedal kit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3650383

Trunk handle: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2781494

Link to the pedal kit seems to be dead. Any chance you still have the STL for the pedal stopper? I've got a spacer made of aluminum but I'd love to print an extended stopper and get rid of the deadzone.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Th0masL

I'm trying to find a way to add more buttons on the lower instrument panel, so was thinking 3d scanning the existing cover, editing it to remove the circular placeholder on the second position, to add an extra button, and 3d print it.

Would someone have this 3d file already ?

Photo :


Drawing before/after:

you could try contacting meso customs

https://mesocustoms.com/

he's got some of the switch templates pre-made, he would just need to update the overall size to one that fits in the 86.

otherwise, i just bought a 2-position switch panel from air on board for the tacoma for some other switches i'll be mounting

you'd need the SPT9_ series. i've got the spt92 on my workbench now. switches fit nicely in it, however the texture/color is off from the switches, but any 3d printed version will have similar issues.
https://www.aironboard.com/online/pr...ch-panels.html

[Sevs753]

For anyone that has the tool for replacing the direct injector seals, i designed a case for it. The tool costs enough, i didn't want it rolling around free in my toolbox.






https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5694942

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Sevs753

For anyone that has the tool for replacing the direct injector seals, i designed a case for it. The tool costs enough, i didn't want it rolling around free in my toolbox.

That is solid work. Very nice.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Way back I looked into the "JDM" 51R battery tray and as usual things escalated. A 51R AGM battery gets expensive and ends up around 27 lbs which isn't that great, so I started looking into other options.

Settled on the Deka ETX30L, which is (probably) the same as a Braille battery and seems to be a solid and inexpensive AGM battery. About 20 lbs.

Needed to add some posts, which I got from Voltphreaks. Plenty of other options.

Then the OEM Subaru 51R rod and tie down work well. These are available from US Subaru dealers.

battery rod - 82161AG001
tie down - 82182AG010

Then the tray, which I made and had 3d printed in ABS so it wouldn't melt. This was about 35-40 bucks (I can't print ABS myself).

I added a strip of foam under the tie down.

And yeah, works great so far and looks OEM-ish. I work from home sometimes and don't turn the car on for a couple days at a time with no issues in cold weather. Saves 10-20 lbs depending on the battery you're replacing. All in it's less expesnive (probably) then another OEM or Group 35 battery.

We'll see how long it lasts, but initial signs are good.

I'll post the files if anyone is interested. Briefly thought about having these produced but I don't think we're going to do that. To be clear, don't print these in regular ol' PETG or whatever because it will melt.











- Andrew

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

To be clear, don't print these in regular ol' PETG or whatever because it will melt.

Yup. PLA gets soft around 55C / 130F which means it's not good for interior parts if you live somewhere with ANY kind of heat in the summer. (Car interiors can easily hit 130+F on hot days.)

PETG is better, getting pliable at 85C / 185F. That makes it good for interior parts where PLA would fail, but still not enough for engine bay temps.

ABS is good to 105C / 220F. I wouldn't bolt it to the engine block, but otherwise it's not going to melt under the hood.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

Yup. PLA gets soft around 55C / 130F which means it's not good for interior parts if you live somewhere with ANY kind of heat in the summer. (Car interiors can easily hit 130+F on hot days.)

PETG is better, getting pliable at 85C / 185F. That makes it good for interior parts where PLA would fail, but still not enough for engine bay temps.

ABS is good to 105C / 220F. I wouldn't bolt it to the engine block, but otherwise it's not going to melt under the hood.

Right. By PETG I meant PLA, but yeah don't use either here lol.

- Andrew

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

ABS is good to 105C / 220F. I wouldn't bolt it to the engine block, but otherwise it's not going to melt under the hood.

Just don't get any brake fluid on it.

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Just don't get any brake fluid on it.

Good point.

PC (Polycarbonate) is probably the best way to go for under-hood parts. Even higher heat tolerance. I'm not sure how it'd handle brake fluid, but iirc it's less reactive than ABS in general.

Then again, there isn't a whole lot of materials that tolerate brake fluid. That stuff is nasty.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

Good point.

PC (Polycarbonate) is probably the best way to go for under-hood parts. Even higher heat tolerance. I'm not sure how it'd handle brake fluid, but iirc it's less reactive than ABS in general.

Then again, there isn't a whole lot of materials that tolerate brake fluid. That stuff is nasty.

Nylon if your printer can handle it. TPO works great but is not a printable material.

[makinen]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5887883

Thanks to @Rzrs

[makinen]

Hi,

This is a kind of anti-buffeting device, so to speak, concentrated on the aesthetic side more.

[DocWalt]

Working on a copy of the GR86 Cup car hood vent... an expensive print to reproduce at a print shop, not too bad at home but a bit annoying. I'll print it in ASA on my Ender, it's too big for my Method even split into three pieces. Annoying because the Method has way better surface finish but oh well.