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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 10-29-2018, 08:23 AM   #141
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Great thread!

Re the whole driver aids thing. I teach my novices that ABS and TC are your daily trainers. If you are routinely engaging ABS or TC, then you want to work on your control input smoothness (onset/release of throttle, braking onsets, etc) until you are coming up to those barriers consistently and in a controlled manner. Then go about turning them off stage by stage and keep working up to where you are controlling the car in and out of each successive stage under harder and harder conditions.

Seriously - ABS is the best brake trainer there is. It enforces progressive and degressive braking beautifully when you consciously use it as a feedback tool. After a while, you are rewarded with lovely threshold braking burned into your muscle memory.
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Old 06-08-2020, 01:40 PM   #142
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track prep/maintenance questions...

I'm re-starting my second HPDE season, and checking and double checking the car beforehand. I'd love feedback on a couple of issues:

1) I just swapped out the brake pads to Carbotech XP10's I used previously, bedded them, and after the swap, it feels like my rotors are warped. Didn't feel like that with stock pads. Are the rotors actually warped, or is it pad deposits, uneven brake pad contact from swapping pad positions, other issues?

2) While under there, I saw a small amount of grease leaking from the small side of both inner CV boots. Enough to fling and get some on the frame parallel with that axis of rotation, but no holes in the boots, clamps seem tight, doesn't seem like the amount of grease I've seen thrown from torn boots, no clicking noise when turning or otherwise. Replace boots, or wait for other symptoms, or? Car is lowered ~1.5" all around.

3) Last time at track (March?) on second day I had vibration, seemed like from the rear, above 100mph. I checked everything I could, thought it might have been unbalanced tire from a lost wheel weight. Once home, I changed wheels and it went away. Had track wheels rebalanced, didn't re-emerge in brief venture to 100mph. Wheel balance seem like the likely cause, and not CV joints, given they aren't making noise?

Thanks all....
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Old 06-08-2020, 02:03 PM   #143
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Slowmow,
First you need to change barke fluid as well, just in case i make the comments.

To your first question, base on my experience you have uneven brake pad material deposit on the rotor. very well descripted problem in many blogs.
Solution in my case, I change pads and rotors at the same time (OEM rotors are cheap), if not you can sand them before the bedding process.

Here you have more info on that topic.
Can not help on 2) and 3)

https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia...c-8-2018_1.pdf
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Old 06-08-2020, 03:11 PM   #144
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Awesome, thanks for the response, and apologies for the basic questions. I googled it first but couldn't figure out how the track pad switch was related to the appearance of the symptom. That article from Centric is really helpful. And yep, I flushed the brake fluid using Motul 660. Thanks!
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Old 06-08-2020, 05:11 PM   #145
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using Motul 660 as well, do no like the 600.
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Old 06-08-2020, 05:11 PM   #146
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@slowmow if you used used rotors, then likely you have mixed pad compounds giving you that vibration on brake application

2. clean and continue observing. small amounts of flung grease is normal. large amount is not

3. likely balance, uneven wear, and OPR.
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Old 06-08-2020, 06:40 PM   #147
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@CSG_Mike Thanks for the responses.

1) I definitely mixed compounds, switching back and forth from track pads to street pads several times. Do people switch pads and rotors at the same time, and keep "sets" together?
2) Awesome, thanks. I was worried having never seen that before. (never looked)
3) Good. OPR? I had to look that up, popped up on urban dictionary. Hilarious.

Appreciate the advice. Cheers.
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Old 06-08-2020, 07:00 PM   #148
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1. that's more ideal, but more work.

3. other people's rubber hehe
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Old 06-08-2020, 07:03 PM   #149
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1) I am using track setting on DD. Not ideal, less work.
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Old 06-08-2020, 07:21 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmow View Post
I'm re-starting my second HPDE season, and checking and double checking the car beforehand. I'd love feedback on a couple of issues:

1) I just swapped out the brake pads to Carbotech XP10's I used previously, bedded them, and after the swap, it feels like my rotors are warped. Didn't feel like that with stock pads. Are the rotors actually warped, or is it pad deposits, uneven brake pad contact from swapping pad positions, other issues?
I had this issue with XP10's, I can confirm it is caused by pad deposit. I ran them all the time, the only pads that ever touched the friction rings they where matched too. They just don't take heat well. Bedding them in the night before a track day helped but it would always start to come back during the day. I resorted to breaking a little earlier with more initial pressure. Spending less time on the pedal helps them a lot.
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Old 06-09-2020, 09:55 AM   #151
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Thanks all for the help. The Essex /AP brake website has some great videos on bed-in and particularly swapping street to track pads. They used the track pads to clean the rotors of the street pad material (several hard stops while rotors are cold, two separate times) BEFORE bedding in the track pads. Cheers all.
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Old 06-22-2020, 10:56 PM   #152
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Got a 2020 BRZ and there's the newer screen in the car with temp readings.


OP Suggests keeping oil temps under 250F; seems reasonable for 0-20w oil.
Perhaps a poor design choice, but I would have hoped the in-car meter would be more helpful in informing the driver of when oil temps are actually too hot...the meter would suggest 270F is totally acceptable and there's not even a red-zone marking for 340F.
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Old 06-22-2020, 11:17 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcmak View Post
Got a 2020 BRZ and there's the newer screen in the car with temp readings.


OP Suggests keeping oil temps under 250F; seems reasonable for 0-20w oil.
Perhaps a poor design choice, but I would have hoped the in-car meter would be more helpful in informing the driver of when oil temps are actually too hot...the meter would suggest 270F is totally acceptable and there's not even a red-zone marking for 340F.
Yeah Iíve been a bit confused by the scale they picked for it as well. I always use my OFT to monitor oil temp front and center while Iím on track.

Good luck keeping it under 250, I was over 255 after hot laps on my very first track day. Oil cooler becomes necessary on these cars if you donít want to spend half your track time running cooldown laps.
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Old 06-22-2020, 11:32 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by deca View Post
Yeah Iíve been a bit confused by the scale they picked for it as well. I always use my OFT to monitor oil temp front and center while Iím on track.

Good luck keeping it under 250, I was over 255 after hot laps on my very first track day. Oil cooler becomes necessary on these cars if you donít want to spend half your track time running cooldown laps.
Haha I have a knack of driving cars that get too hot on a track...appreciate your feedback though.
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