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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 03-12-2014, 11:19 PM   #57
h4nh
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
I dont know, does having a magazine cover car not make you a ricer? Albeit one with money to throw around
around.
Okay dude, you're right my cars are rice. You win the Internet.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:23 PM   #58
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Okay dude, you're right my cars are rice. You win the Internet.

If these cars are rice I want a bowl. 🍚
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:31 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by h4nh View Post
Sorry bro, you have no idea what you're talking about. Do you even own a set of ohlins or specifically a set for this car?

The purpose for the new top hats is to not lose travel on the shocks.
I do not have Ohlins. I have just seen a lot of coilovers improperly setup and I'm simply asking for more information.

I'm well aware of the purpose of the top hat. My question however, if you were to remove the spring and compress the otherwise fully assembled suspension with the spring perch setup for a shorter spring and the body set to its lowest possible setting, does the shock actually run out of travel before the tire runs into things?

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Originally Posted by h4nh View Post
Btw cheaper and Ohlins don't belong in the same sentence as these aren't exactly the budget coilovers of choice.
Depends on budget I guess. For some, they might be a high end race damper when properly setup. Obviously for you, they are just a decent street coilover that isn't really high end at all? I guess money doesn't matter in that case and proceed with buying all the sweet shiney parts out there.

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Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
Already been said why it won't work, but also to add some counterpoints:
  • Shorter spring will cause you to lose shock travel
  • Stiff spring will require revalving, ideally
  • Ohlins rear shock problem is that the shock body is too long, so the lower bracket "bottoms out" on the shock body. The solution presented here by @h4nh allows the shock body to be mounted physically higher (versus the rear suspension mount points on the chassis), thus artificially raising the rear coilover higher into the chassis. The end result is the ability to lower the car more without compromising suspension travel or comfort.
Or long story short: your solution is not as cost effective.

-alex
  • A shorter spring won't change shock travel at all.
  • Ideally...BUT... The Ohlins constantly get sprung 20%-40% higher without issue on tons of other platforms. The valving has a lot of range and is a 2-way lock step damper that adjusts compression and rebound proportionally. They easily adapt to spring rate changes.
  • Sure... But with the body fully bottomed with the Ohlins mounts does the tire run into things before the damper bottoms? Not before it hits the bumpstop...before it fully bottoms out.
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:13 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike156 View Post
  • A shorter spring won't change shock travel at all.
  • Ideally...BUT... The Ohlins constantly get sprung 20%-40% higher without issue on tons of other platforms. The valving has a lot of range and is a 2-way lock step damper that adjusts compression and rebound proportionally. They easily adapt to spring rate changes.
  • Sure... But with the body fully bottomed with the Ohlins mounts does the tire run into things before the damper bottoms? Not before it hits the bumpstop...before it fully bottoms out.
  • Assuming you get a stiffer spring that puts the car back to the same ride height, then I agree. But a shorter spring that artificially lowers the car will result in less shock travel, all else being equal. Or put in a different way, assuming same top hat and bumpstops, you'll hit the bumpstops sooner.
  • Yes... but this isn't the best way to retain initial dampening characteristics. I'd rather get a different setup if I am going to mess with the coilovers.
  • Depends entirely on your wheel setup. On my car (18x9.5" +39 rear w/ 255 tires) there is zero rubbing of any kind, and I did not have to roll fenders.

In the end, the rear shocks bottom out only because of one thing: the RT coilover shock body was sourced from another car's existing coilover parts bin. This ride height "problem" is only found on Ohlins, nothing else.

I don't have any issues with it and would highly recommend Ohlins to anyone wanting one of the best street coilovers on the market.

-alex
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:29 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
  • Depends entirely on your wheel setup. On my car (18x9.5" +39 rear w/ 255 tires) there is zero rubbing of any kind, and I did not have to roll fenders.
In the end, the rear shocks bottom out only because of one thing: the RT coilover shock body was sourced from another car's existing coilover parts bin. This ride height "problem" is only found on Ohlins, nothing else.

I don't have any issues with it and would highly recommend Ohlins to anyone wanting one of the best street coilovers on the market.

-alex
That answers the question. Most coilovers usually have a short enough body that if you pull the spring out, the shock usually has ample travel to allow the tire to run into all kinds of stuff. Thus, moving the upper mount up does nothing but reduce droop travel as you can't use the extra compression travel anyway.

But that sounds like it's not the issue here. My original post assumed Ohlins had made the body short enough and the percieved issue was that the spring prech would run into the shock mount but other wise the body its self could go lower. Thus, a shorter spring would allow the perch to go higher and allow additional shock body adjustment.

My mistake, this adjustment is constantly done wrong though and I thought that was the case here too.


As for getting a different coilover, Ohlins has a lot of advantages. Tweaking spring rates and lengths to match your needs (within reason) isn't really that big of a deal. Some places will reconfigure the Ohlins to custom spring rates too, basically giving you a discount on the new springs. It is extra over the standard Ohlins of course and some places will revalve with it for a discounted price. They end up costing about $1000 more at that point but they do perform well and Ohlins are very well built.
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:43 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by mike156 View Post

But that sounds like it's not the issue here. My original post assumed Ohlins had made the body short enough and the percieved issue was that the spring prech would run into the shock mount but other wise the body its self could go lower. Thus, a shorter spring would allow the perch to go higher and allow additional shock body adjustment.
Pics would help.




In the second pic, the lower mount would only thread another 5mm more, leaving around 20mm of additional lowering on the shock body untouched.

Only way to explain this is that it was parts not originally designed for this car, reused for our chassis. I ran into a similar issue with a coilover maker previously for the P10/P11 chassis, and was able to get the manufacturer to source shorter shock bodies for additional lowering (without compromising ride quality)

The key here is, if one uses stock wheels and also has a wider range to lower the car with, then it's a win-win. If it rubs because one lowers too much, then that's the car owner's problem with wheel or his/her choice of ride height, not a problem from the coilover itself.

-alex
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:47 PM   #63
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I dont know, does having a magazine cover car not make you a ricer? Albeit one with money to throw around
around.
Magazine cover + rice = unpossible
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:08 AM   #64
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He is "frush," not enough camber for "herra frush." Get it right, guys!
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:37 PM   #65
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Will this work to a lesser extent using the 1" Raceseng rear top hats? I only need to lower another 1/2" or on my Ohlins on the rear.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:24 PM   #66
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Resurrecting this thread (there's a lot of wealth of info here!). @h4nh if you're still here (or anyone else that may have an answer), why did you stack the two spacers instead of just running the new one Raceseng provided? Can't you extract even more travel by running only the 1? Thanks!

Edit: with this mind...couldn't that mini plate that sits above the bump stop also be removed since the raceseng mount is created to mate directly with the top of the bumpstop anyway?

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Originally Posted by h4nh View Post


I used the thicker bearing from the top portion and brought it down here. Then the spacer from the Raceseng set up placed above that.

Last edited by 1Cor10:23; 05-18-2017 at 04:44 PM.
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