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#1 |
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Adv Multiplier Dropping from 1 to .7-.88
Currently running OFT stg 1 93oct in MD with 93oct fuel. Just a catback installed and will be switching to stage 2 with the OFH this week or next.
I'm a complete newcomer to tuning. That being said I'm reading a lot about how it works and I've seen in a few threads to pull timing by 0.3deg increments until the AM stays at 1. My Question: In RomRaider, I go to Ignition Timing - Advance -> which table? Base A, Base B, etc? Also, how long should one wait after flashing to decide if extra tuning is needed? I flashed last night and with my AM at 1 the car felt like it had 20 more hp/tq but today feels like it did before i reflashed (all i changed was LC). Can someone walk me through how to fix this? |
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Wait for your LTFTs to level out. Base Timing B. If you see a consistent knock of -0.8 in a certain cell, take out half of that (0.4). Repeat until it goes away.
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Consistent knock of -.8 meaning the flkc value consistently showing up at a certain RPM range vs engine load?
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Assuming your maf scaling and fueling AFR is ok also try some different brand fuel some are better than others. you can also try modding the pi/di ratio tables cold/warm/hot as per below if your seeing higher rpm knock 5000-7000, so you run full DI till 7200 instead of 5200, the lower load changes are for idle stability and takeoff from idle stability if it below 3000 then just pull a bit of timing Last edited by steve99; 06-29-2015 at 05:51 PM. |
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Have you seen anything suggesting that running 100% DI that high into the range is beneficial? I thought that there wasn't any improvement and actually running some PI helps the mixture.
Don't forget that the ECU pills timing at a minimum set value, usually -0.7 or -1.05. You can check in the map. If you see smaller retard values it's actually restoring back towards 0. Not all negative values in the log correspond to the onset of knock which is why you want to work out the nearest moment that caused the ECU to pull timing. All timing changes on the maps are in 0.35 degree multiples.
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Yes i don't get concerned about anything thats not over -0.7. see link here from moto-mike http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=17 I agree their no direct power increase due pi/di in it but if you can add timing back in as a result it would appears it worth doing. (and your not maxing out DI as mike says unlikely on NA petrol tune. Gets close on E85 though. |
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what is your LTFT %?? at idle??
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less than 5% usually unless IAT varies widely
or my E% changes 20% or more http://datazap.me/u/steve99/e85-v7-l...ata=9-10-15-26 http://datazap.me/u/steve99/mt-glorious?log=0&data=1-7 |
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Many thanks guys. My LTFT evened out while I was driving this evening and it only took one adjustment to get it stable @ 1 again. With that said, here's another question:
If I were to add timing, is it as simple as adding .1-.5 per cell? Is there a certain pattern? Is there a location of a general guide of how to do your own custom tunes so I don't bother you guys? My background is in EE and control theory. |
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As far as pulling/adding timing, Steve99 has a lot of written guides on editing tunes and what to look for, and I also have a basic guide on changing Base Timing in Romraider. |
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on petrol you will generally get knock before you get to MBT (max torque) but on E85 you can often advance the timing past MBT before knock so you need to check your actually making more power . |
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see here note his tables displaying the changes not the absolute values, make sure you put in the - signs in the IAT temp compensation table else it will add timing then temps hot :-) http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...47#post2216047 |
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