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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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03-24-2015, 01:03 PM | #1 |
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Aluminum 1-piece Driveshaft
Hey guys has anyone gone out and bought the aluminum driveshaft from driveshaft shop?
Any feed back? Any issues? Done some research but all I could find for feed back is that the bolts arent long enough and only catch about 2 threads. Just want to get some feed back before I go and buy one. Thanks! |
03-24-2015, 01:08 PM | #2 |
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refer:
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03-24-2015, 09:48 PM | #3 |
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I have one. Shifting and acceleration from stop is so much smoother. I dunno that the "light weight" helped much but the 1 piece shaft feels much better. My bolts were long enough
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03-24-2015, 11:16 PM | #4 |
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Yeah as was stated in the other thread, the lighter weight is nice, will smooth out the acceleration somewhat. Biggest draws for me were the weather resistance (my stock shaft was already surface rusting after 2 winters) and significantly lighter weight. Is it a huge difference? No, but it would be silly to do the clutch and flywheel without touching the driveshaft.
As far as issues you will notice a somewhat sharp vibration in your gas pedal when the diff engages and you're really hammering into a corner, but that's not a problem with the unit so much as its a consequence of the higher NVH with an aluminum driveshaft. It's something I only really see at the track.
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Current mods: OFT Stage 2 (w/93 oct), OFH, Perrin Resonated catback, DSS Aluminum Driveshaft, Perrin drop-in filter, Avo silicone inlet, Mishimoto catch can, Grimmspeed MCB, Perrin crank pulley, Nameless overpipe/downpipe combo, DBA slotted rotors, Ferrodo brake pads, goodrich SS brake lines, DOT5 synthetic brake fluid.
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03-25-2015, 11:18 AM | #5 |
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Another benefit is one less connection to wear over time.
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03-25-2015, 11:38 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
The driveshaft can be done in 20 minutes... the clutch and FW, however... I could understand if somehow, one only had ability to remove the driveshaft with the tranny separated from engine, but really its something easily independently of any other mod since @stugray so eloquently put out the reality of performance gains, what are you really sacrificing when you touch the clutch/FW to make the driveshaft a must-do if one was replacing the former? |
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03-25-2015, 11:49 AM | #7 |
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Yeah... No. That's just bad information. Also, it literally makes NO difference if your stock driveshaft has surface rust on it. A ladybug taking a shit on your driver side mirror is a bigger issue.
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03-25-2015, 11:54 AM | #8 |
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Damn lady bugs
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03-25-2015, 12:05 PM | #9 |
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Wait, you guys don't Opti Coat your driveshafts?
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03-25-2015, 12:11 PM | #10 |
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Squadrogue's next thread.
"Guys should I Opti Coat my driveshaft?"
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03-25-2015, 12:33 PM | #11 |
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Fixed that for ya
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Last edited by cdrazic93; 03-25-2015 at 12:55 PM. |
03-25-2015, 01:26 PM | #12 | ||
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Quote:
As far as the rust, of course surface rust doesn't matter, but it turns into actual concerning rust fairly quickly; my stock exhaust flanges were starting rust severely to the point of effecting function after just two winters. I hadn't originally planned to do the driveshaft at all, but going down there for the flywheel and clutch and seeing it with spots all over, I figured I might as well gain corrosion resistance and drop 10 lbs for relatively cheap. Quote:
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03-25-2015, 01:36 PM | #13 | |
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Let's be real it takes 10 minutes to take off underbody panels. Add another 10 for driveshaft assembly if you're half decent with wrenching. It takes a whole day or more for most people to do a clutch and flywheel job. |
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03-25-2015, 01:38 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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Current mods: OFT Stage 2 (w/93 oct), OFH, Perrin Resonated catback, DSS Aluminum Driveshaft, Perrin drop-in filter, Avo silicone inlet, Mishimoto catch can, Grimmspeed MCB, Perrin crank pulley, Nameless overpipe/downpipe combo, DBA slotted rotors, Ferrodo brake pads, goodrich SS brake lines, DOT5 synthetic brake fluid.
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