Steering issue under braking !

[Ultramaroon]

...but there's an overtemp indicator in the instrument cluster. Does that not ever illuminate?

I had an alternator light like that on another first-year model. 3 alternators and it never warned me. POS.

[Element Tuning]

It happens at a point I doubt anyone would have their eyes on the dash (turn in). I still see the stability light flashing away even when the system is off but I believe that is normal. The electric motor is sealed so there is no easy way to cool it without making a coil, fluid, radiator, and fan.

[OGSCION]

Just got back from a weekend at NCM Motorsports Park. Had the same thing happen at the bottom of the "sinkhole" corner several times. I never lost front end grip just power assist. Happened with and without pedal dance. Only suspension related mods are a Stano bar, crash bolts and 17x9 wheels with 255/40 Kook RS3's.

This corner has lots of compression at the bottom. Could it be that the power steering just doesn't have the "power" to assist in those conditions?

[Element Tuning]

Yeah typically high g out turns like Lime Rock onto the front straight or "hog pen" at VIR or trail braking areas. Anywhere you are loading the fronts higher than normal. I could see a little more toe out helping but it just wears the tires out so fast and it can really scrub speed on a low power car.

[Stang70Fastback]

I'm on a train right now and nowhere near my car. However I've been reading through the manual since I just got the car a few days ago and there was definitely something in there about how excessive steering inputs for extended periods can cause the electric power steering to go into safe mode to avoid overheating. I'll try to find the exact wording.

Edit: Found it!

Originally Posted by BRZ Owner's Manual: Page 222

The effectiveness of the electric power steering system is reduced to prevent the system from overheating when there is frequent steering input over an extended period of time. The steering wheel may feel heavy as a result. Should this occur, refrain from excessive steering input or stop the vehicle and turn the engine off. The electric power steering system should return to normal after a little while.

It would make sense for it to occur at the same spot on the track (the same corner) every time. Once you've significantly heated up the power steering system, it's likely that the combination of corners leading up to that point simply doesn't leave enough time in between for the motor to cool down. Much in the same fashion as can occur with brakes or even tires.

[Ultramaroon]

The idiot light indicates an already-present overtemp condition. The loss of servo output should coincide with it.

Edit: Ah, so it's an "Uncle!" light. Still, no one sees this?

[Ultramaroon]

I think I'm hyperhyphenating.

[AJ PwR]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Let me guess you experience that particularly when you get into the Turn 8a-8b and Turn 13 (corkscrew) at the RMP, correct?

Like I said I had the same issue with 235/40/17 NT01s and those are about .3" smaller then the OEM diameter but having 1.5" drop and softer damper settings were the reasons in my case

so, I would be surprised if you didn't rub with those sizes
for most tires 235/40/18 means about 25.4-25.5" overall diameter about .7-.8 " taller than the OEM diameter and 265/35/18 is still about .5-.6" taller

245/35/18 is ideal since it's the closest so the OEM size (just like the 245/40/17) so it probably happens because you either need:

• more negative camber
• and/or more poke (a bit more aggresive offset that takes it outward)
• and/or stiffer dampers/ adjustment (if adjustable)

at the last track day at RMP I was also trail braking and did the "pedal dance"
I wanted to try the softer settings (6-7 clicks from the stiffest) and it immediately started rubbing then using (1-2) clicks fixed that for me

FYI, I have 9k swift springs all around and don't use any roll center kit, sway bar or LCA.. I feel that I could've got 11-12k instead



yeah, I highly doubt that's the issue here and am not sure how/if it can be measured

It happens at RMP 8A B and all down hill turns.

My car is only lowered about 1 inch , I am running -3.5 camber and -3 in the past but no difference, with and without RCA still the same. I also tried full stiff/soft in the suspension and it didn't help either **argh**

My PS warning light never come on though.....

Anyone has a fix so far ? Will longer steering rack bolts or bushings help ?

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Good to know. Thanks.

I'll be at the Glen next week in a student's FR-S and will keep an eye out for it when we trail in to T6.

This condition did not rear its ugly head at the Glen last month. I took a little off on entry and trailed all the way to the apex of T6 to see if it would occur, and it didn't. However, I don't really lean on students' cars, and so it may be that I simply wasn't asking enough of the EPS in the Carousel.

Or maybe it's that the EPS gets enough of a rest during T1-->Bus Stop entry that it's not going to overheat there. I suppose the T10/T11 sequence might create the condition, but even with greater than normal trail-braking into T1 there was no evidence of it there either.

FWIW, the car was running Dunlop ZIIs in 215 - so, good grip, but nothing like a real tire. I'm guessing this FR-S just isn't developed enough to overheat the EPS on that track.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by AJ PwR

It happens at RMP 8A B and all down hill turns.

My car is only lowered about 1 inch , I am running -3.5 camber and -3 in the past but no difference, with and without RCA still the same. I also tried full stiff/soft in the suspension and it didn't help either **argh**

My PS warning light never come on though.....

Anyone has a fix so far ? Will longer steering rack bolts or bushings help ?

in my case stiffer damper settings helped a bit next time you come to RMP just let me know so that we can compare the wheel gaps of our cars

[EN2_Squirrel]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

I had this exact issue!!! Fixed it via adjusting the sway bar end links to make them longer.

What was happening was the sway bar arms were hitting the frame of the car and thus getting stuck upon hard braking especially downhill when incurring a lot of drop in the front. The symptom was it was hard to turn steering wheel during braking and loss of front grip during this which caused front to "skip" and plow.

It will be obvious if your sway bar arms are binding on the frame. Check the frame for rubbing or damage.

It used to happen on the same corners and depended on how hard I was shifting the weight forward. Check your sway bars guys!

I have seen evidence of this on my car. Where do your end links sit in relation to the arm? Also which sway bars and endlinks are you using? I was looking at lenghting my endlinks as they are adjustable but wasnt sure about where they should sit

[AJ PwR]

Originally Posted by glamcem

in my case stiffing the damper settings helped a bit next time you come to RMP just let me know so that we can compare the wheel gaps of our cars

Sure we can do that !

I had this exact issue!!! Fixed it via adjusting the sway bar end links to make them longer.

What was happening was the sway bar arms were hitting the frame of the car and thus getting stuck upon hard braking especially downhill when incurring a lot of drop in the front. The symptom was it was hard to turn steering wheel during braking and loss of front grip during this which caused front to "skip" and plow.

It will be obvious if your sway bar arms are binding on the frame. Check the frame for rubbing or damage.

It used to happen on the same corners and depended on how hard I was shifting the weight forward. Check your sway bars guys!

Do you have pics for your set up ? After you adjust your end-links , did it fix the issue completely ?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by glamcem

stiffing the damper settings helped

weren't they pissed about it?

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

weren't they pissed about it?

fixed it for you