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Old 08-19-2014, 03:32 PM   #29
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Just picked up that flex cap from the hardware store. I've been capped on the firewall since day 3. I wonder if this will make a difference
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:24 PM   #30
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@BirdTRD : I would be nervous about having anything that could come loose or chip and get sucked into the engine.

@drewbot : I think plugging the firewall hole and securing the sound tube so it's no longer connected to the firewall is enough. I just didn't want that ugly tube in my engine bay if it has no purpose, and hopefully it helps with airflow since the intake tube now has only one channel.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:30 PM   #31
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@BirdTRD : I would be nervous about having anything that could come loose or chip and get sucked into the engine.

@drewbot : I think plugging the firewall hole and securing the sound tube so it's no longer connected to the firewall is enough. I just didn't want that ugly tube in my engine bay if it has no purpose, and hopefully it helps with airflow since the intake tube now has only one channel.
Yeah, I was a little worried about that too. RTV is pretty tough stuff though but I'm going to keep my eye on it. Probably go with a Perrin (or other) Silicone intake tube soon anyway.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:34 PM   #32
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Added the end I cut off, and the rubber cap is a lot more secure, and fits a lot tighter. Much more confidence inspiring.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:16 PM   #33
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Just put it on. haven't driven yet. I already had it capped in the driver's compartment anyway. Looking forward to less intake and more exhaust.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:51 PM   #34
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I just picked up this marine plug and a hose clamp from Ace Hardware for a couple of bucks and used it to plug the hole. I guarantee it's not going anywhere.



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Old 08-20-2014, 03:16 PM   #35
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I just picked up this marine plug and a hose clamp from Ace Hardware for a couple of bucks and used it to plug the hole. I guarantee it's not going anywhere.
I don't really like that bolt being there in the middle. May be fine at first but after years and years who knows.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:50 AM   #36
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Just did this to my twin. Exhaust is loud enough so part of my plan to quite the cab up. Have sound matting in the rear half of the car. No road noise at all. Just need to do the front now.

Thanks for the how to guide!

also if you dont have a flat head screw driver or just prefer to use the socket wrench, an 8mm will work for the pipe clamps!
How did you get rid of the rest of the road noise? I was looking into quieting the cab mainly cuz I can't make a phone call while driving on the highway because of all the noise. What did you add and how much did it run you to eliminate the road noise? Cheers
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:55 AM   #37
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Read the sound dampening thread. You can get away with just using dampening material, no real need for barriers and insulation. For the entire car, I'd recommend anywhere between 25-50sqft total, on doors (outer skin and inside), drive tunnel, rear quarters, floor and wheel well, roof, under treat seat, trunk floor, trunk lid.
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Old 08-21-2014, 04:00 AM   #38
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Read the sound dampening thread. You can get away with just using dampening material, no real need for barriers and insulation. For the entire car, I'd recommend anywhere between 25-50sqft total, on doors (outer skin and inside), drive tunnel, rear quarters, floor and wheel well, roof, under treat seat, trunk floor, trunk lid.
OK can I get a link to said thread? I've spent the last twenty minutes searching and can't find any useful information. I'd love to get some info on material and instructions would be so helpful too
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:57 AM   #39
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How did you get rid of the rest of the road noise? I was looking into quieting the cab mainly cuz I can't make a phone call while driving on the highway because of all the noise. What did you add and how much did it run you to eliminate the road noise? Cheers
I this product

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Protecto-...7206/100396171

It is a construction product, but the company also makes a sound matting material and there is not much difference between the two expect $$$

Home Depot has it for under $20 a roll and there are a few places with it a little bit cheaper if you look around.

Weighs in at 5lbs per roll. I used two rolls for the rear of my car, which was enough to do the trunk, under the rear seats, the wheel wells and arches, and do a second layer in most of the areas. Need to do front half next!
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:37 AM   #40
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Not much difference in price from other sound dampening product. My 25sqft of 50mil matting with roller cost under 25 shipped. Cheaper per sqft if you get more. Plus, the sound dampening mat is thicker and heavier, much more than 5lbs, making this actually much more expensive.

What is this stuff made of?
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:41 AM   #41
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OK can I get a link to said thread? I've spent the last twenty minutes searching and can't find any useful information. I'd love to get some info on material and instructions would be so helpful too
http://bit.ly/1BG3pXr

=D

Also, I would just use a lot more matting. You can skip the mlv and ccf. Key areas are panels that sound hollow when you knock on then. That's vibration. The only place that you may want to add ccf is maybe headliner, door cards, and rear quarter.
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:51 PM   #42
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OK can I get a link to said thread? I've spent the last twenty minutes searching and can't find any useful information. I'd love to get some info on material and instructions would be so helpful too


Do yourself a huge favor. Visit www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and educate yourself on the various elements that produce vehicle cabin noise and the products designed to mitigate each type. I think you'll find that there is not 1 magic bullet but rather a multi-layered (literally) approach to dealing with NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Every Sound deadening company out there has their own version of the products you'll read about, just called something different.
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