08-19-2014, 03:32 PM | #29 |
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Just picked up that flex cap from the hardware store. I've been capped on the firewall since day 3. I wonder if this will make a difference
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08-19-2014, 04:24 PM | #30 |
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@BirdTRD : I would be nervous about having anything that could come loose or chip and get sucked into the engine.
@drewbot : I think plugging the firewall hole and securing the sound tube so it's no longer connected to the firewall is enough. I just didn't want that ugly tube in my engine bay if it has no purpose, and hopefully it helps with airflow since the intake tube now has only one channel. |
08-19-2014, 04:30 PM | #31 | |
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08-19-2014, 08:34 PM | #32 |
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Added the end I cut off, and the rubber cap is a lot more secure, and fits a lot tighter. Much more confidence inspiring.
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08-19-2014, 10:16 PM | #33 |
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Just put it on. haven't driven yet. I already had it capped in the driver's compartment anyway. Looking forward to less intake and more exhaust.
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08-19-2014, 10:51 PM | #34 |
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I just picked up this marine plug and a hose clamp from Ace Hardware for a couple of bucks and used it to plug the hole. I guarantee it's not going anywhere.
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08-20-2014, 03:16 PM | #35 |
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I don't really like that bolt being there in the middle. May be fine at first but after years and years who knows.
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08-21-2014, 01:50 AM | #36 | |
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08-21-2014, 02:55 AM | #37 |
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Read the sound dampening thread. You can get away with just using dampening material, no real need for barriers and insulation. For the entire car, I'd recommend anywhere between 25-50sqft total, on doors (outer skin and inside), drive tunnel, rear quarters, floor and wheel well, roof, under treat seat, trunk floor, trunk lid.
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08-21-2014, 04:00 AM | #38 | |
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08-21-2014, 08:57 AM | #39 | |
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Protecto-...7206/100396171 It is a construction product, but the company also makes a sound matting material and there is not much difference between the two expect $$$ Home Depot has it for under $20 a roll and there are a few places with it a little bit cheaper if you look around. Weighs in at 5lbs per roll. I used two rolls for the rear of my car, which was enough to do the trunk, under the rear seats, the wheel wells and arches, and do a second layer in most of the areas. Need to do front half next! |
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08-21-2014, 10:37 AM | #40 |
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Not much difference in price from other sound dampening product. My 25sqft of 50mil matting with roller cost under 25 shipped. Cheaper per sqft if you get more. Plus, the sound dampening mat is thicker and heavier, much more than 5lbs, making this actually much more expensive.
What is this stuff made of?
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08-21-2014, 10:41 AM | #41 | |
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=D Also, I would just use a lot more matting. You can skip the mlv and ccf. Key areas are panels that sound hollow when you knock on then. That's vibration. The only place that you may want to add ccf is maybe headliner, door cards, and rear quarter.
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08-21-2014, 05:51 PM | #42 | |
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Do yourself a huge favor. Visit www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and educate yourself on the various elements that produce vehicle cabin noise and the products designed to mitigate each type. I think you'll find that there is not 1 magic bullet but rather a multi-layered (literally) approach to dealing with NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Every Sound deadening company out there has their own version of the products you'll read about, just called something different. |
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