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DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides For all DIYs.


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Old 11-09-2017, 03:56 AM   #1
Skeneypoo
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(DIY) REPLACE YOUR OEM PUST-TO-START WITH ANY BUTTON YOU WANT

Thinking of upgrading your OEM push to start huh? Your options are TRD or STI. Pretty sick..such great variety.

In case this DIY post sucks, here's a video of me doing the install



Well this is my first time writing a DIY guide, so I'm going to try and do my best. I guess a step-by-step process would be ideal. Sweet.

Purpose: USE ANY MOMENTARY BUTTON IN PLACE OF YOUR OEM PUSH-TO-START BUTTON.

How It Works: To fully understand how this works, you'll have to do your own research. Although the OEM button serves many functions, when you are physically pressing the button in, 2 wires and a ground are momentarily connected. Thus, turning on your ignition and starting your car.

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional and probably shouldn't be listened to. I just wanted to make this work and ended up succeeding.

Parts & Tools Needed:
-SPST Momentary Button/Switch
-10mm
-12mm
-Phillips Head Screwdriver
-Electrical Connectors
-Wire
-Solder
-Heatshrink
-5amp 60v Diodes
------------------------------

Step 1a: Disconnect your battery.

Step 1b: Remove your center console, the silver bezel around radio, the shift boot, the ebrake cover, the triangles you always smack your right knee on while driving, the thin plastic pieces below the triangle and the OEM push to start/usb tray.

Not gonna clutter this with pics on how to do that. There are 2 screws under the rubber mat where your cup holders are, 2 screws under the shift boot, 2 screws for the triangle pieces behind the radio bezel and connectors where the connectors obviously are.

When it comes to the push-to-start tray, you have to reach around from the side and push both the start button and usb ports forward (to the read of the car) to unplug them. Then the tray will pop right out.

Step 2: Hop over to the drivers side and find the connector that plugged into the OEM push-to-start button. It should have a rubber sleeve over it, cut it back a few inches to expose the wires. 1 row of the connector should have 5 wires, (black, white, light green, dark green, and red) the other side should have 2 (pink and brown).

All we care about are the PINK & BROWN wires. Find them and never forget.



Step 3: Just keep reading.

To understand how this all works, you'll have to do your own research. But although the OEM button serves many functions, when you are physically pressing the button in, the Pink Wire, Brown Wire, & a Ground..are momentarily connected. Thus, turning on your ignition and starting your car.

BUTT - and it's a big butt. When you are NOT pressing the button, the Pink Wire, Brown Wire, & a Ground are all disconnected from each other.



This means is that the OEM button is a DPST switch. "What's a DPST switch?!" Doesn't matter because we're going to use whatever SPST momentary switch you want.

Step 4: Run inside and get your soldering iron ready. You're going to need it.

As you can see in the picture (from left to right). We have 2 wires, one will be spliced to the Pink wire and the other will be spliced to the Brown wire. Next, we're soldering a diode on each of your two wires. Think of the grey line on your diodes as the head of an arrow. After the diodes, we're splicing those two wires together.



Diodes allow electrons (power/info/electricity/anything) to move in one direction, so if we splice the two wires together to the AFTER the diodes, then the Pink wire and Brown wire, on the factory harness, will not know they are connected.

I went with 5amp 60v PIV diodes. The OEM wiring is 23/24 gauge max and wire that thin maxes out under 5amps, so these should work fine.



Step 5: Now that you've soldered your diodes, you'll want to twist your two wires together *after* the diodes and connect them both to 1 Pole on the button of your choosing. Connect another wire to the other pole, this will be your ground.



Step 6: Run yourself back out to your car and get ready because we're almost done.

You should mount your button wherever you'd like, but be sure to give yourself a little extra slack on the wiring. I prewired my button for ease of installation.



Connect your ground to the car. I used one of the (2) 12mm bolts on the driver side. Once done, connect it to one of the poles on your button.



To splice into the Pink and Brown wires, I opted for T-Tap connectors because that's all I had at the moment, but I'm personally not a fan of them.

Take the two wires that are soldered to the diodes and connected them to the Pink and Brown wires. Once you connect the other end to your button, your new button should start the car!



Step 7: Tuck your OEM button somewhere easily accessibly so if your key remote dies, you can still gain access to the button to and start it that way.



Step 8: Reassemble your interior, re-connect your battery and crack open a cold one for the boys

I hope you guys enjoyed it and didn't find it too confusing. I opted to buy an open FRS tray to put in place of the stock one in my car. I'm actually working on a wireless charging DIY right now and will be using the FRS tray for that.

If you have any questions or concerns, post them up!

PPPPS** when I first did this, I was tripping out because when I drove my car for the first time after the install, RPMS were acting funny at idle. Found out that when you disconnect your battery, it takes a little bit of driving ~40-50 miles for the ECM to recalibrate.
All is good.

Last edited by Skeneypoo; 11-09-2017 at 04:26 AM.
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:40 PM   #2
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Now I can put the push button start where the key cylinder normally is...
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:31 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew025 View Post
Now I can put the push button start where the key cylinder normally is...
100% man, so long as you find one that fits haha

Some LED push-to-start buttons have the LED wired independently from the switch (4 prongs). You'll likely have to find one of those if you really want the LED working. As an LED is a diode, you can't just reverse the wires.
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Old 06-06-2022, 01:23 PM   #4
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Does ACC still enabled?
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