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11-17-2020, 04:07 AM | #99 |
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If you want to avoid the trouble of removing the tube from the firewall, you can use a a 5/8" (16mm) ID Vacuum/Cooling Bypass Cap on the plastic sound generator "L" piece.
Admittedly, the fit is a little tight out of the box. The ID is probably a little less than 5/8" in actuality (probably closer to 15.4mm). I had one on there for a couple of years, but the stress was causing the rubber to crack. Additionally, it was a little bit of a fight to remove it. Just replaced it recently with another (luckily two are in the pack of assorted sizes from O'Reilley's for ~$5 when I bought them years ago [Dorman 02253]) and used a Dremmel to enlarge the ID by a tiny bit (~0.02" or 0.5mm). Combined with some rubber grease, it went on nicely. ----- Alternatively, you can try to put a plug there. I measured the opening of the plastic L to be approximately 11.3mm in diameter (or ~7/16"). I haven't verified or tried it myself, but it may give you a reference to start with if you prefer that method,. |
08-09-2022, 09:17 AM | #100 |
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Probably one of the easiest, cheapest, and BEST mods I have ever done. Wish I had done it years ago on my FRS. Just did it on my 2019 TRD SE.
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09-29-2022, 12:45 AM | #101 |
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The sound in the cabin is SOOO much quieter and it’s much much less drony. Really recommended mod! Why? Save your ears!
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09-30-2022, 10:58 AM | #102 |
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Technically for street class autocross, I can't change the inlet to the Perrin tube or even simply remove and block off the sound tube. I did however add a stopper at the firewall in the passenger side footwell to keep the piped in sound at bay for now.
I envy you people not having to adhere to strict rulesets.
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09-30-2022, 11:02 AM | #103 |
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I had a CAI installed, left the plumbing for the noise thing in place but had the pipe bunged up.. I just like the plumbing in place as it detracts from the other gubbins in the engine bay..
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