Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[WNDSRFR]

No it's not a good idea to engage the ESC at low RPM. I use the same rule as for my GTI turbo. Never go full throttle below 2,000 RPM. I've gotten pissed off at traffic a couple times and punched it from idle. The car just stalls. (Then I'm really pissed off.)
As far as stressing engine internals, I've put over 200,000 miles on my engine with the ESC with no problems what so ever.

[Qwimby1]

That confirms my thinking. It's very encouraging to learn of that many miles with the engine still intact.

[mrjj]

This is a good reason to get the Proceed controller, that lets you control the boost per RPM

[Qwimby1]

Originally Posted by mrjj

This is a good reason to get the Proceed controller, that lets you control the boost per RPM

It's my understanding that the only way to get the Proceed controller is with ESC V.3. I don't know how many of those were made.

Mine is V2.5 with the two-speed controller. Has someone managed to retrofit a Proceed?

[mrjj]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

It's my understanding that the only way to get the Proceed controller is with ESC V.3. I don't know how many of those were made.

Mine is V2.5 with the two-speed controller. Has someone managed to retrofit a Proceed?

I think you can use the Proceed controller with any version of Phantom ESC.
The difference between V1, V2, V2.5 and V3 where mostly the battery setup anyway.

[Urmyson]

Originally Posted by mrjj

I think you can use the Proceed controller with any version of Phantom ESC.
The difference between V1, V2, V2.5 and V3 where mostly the battery setup anyway.

This is correct, I have a V1 and a Proceed controller as well.

[Qwimby1]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

This is correct, I have a V1 and a Proceed controller as well.

Where does one find these? My internet search was inconclusive. Is there one that bolts right on to our systems?

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

I unhooked the compressor enough to hand spin it and it seems to turn OK, although I can feel some resistance at certain points in the revolution. I think it was like that before I installed and it worked OK. When I activate the throttle switch it just starts to spin and quits. Volts drop from 28.3 to 25+ very briefly and then back to 28.3. I'm assuming the dump batteries are charged because of the voltage reading, but could it be that after no use for a month they have lost enough charge to create this problem? I drove it most of a month with the system turned off, but did have it on for a while. They should be getting a charge. It's getting a signal from the controller because it does try to spin for just a moment. I'm at a loss to figure it out.

Mine just quit today. Got exactly the same symptoms. Ordered some new batteries. Hope that's the problem.
It's kinda weird how yesterday it was fine and today it doesn't work at all.
Just like my ebike. It seems to have the same amount of power regardless of the charge of the battery. Until it quits. Once it gets to the cutoff voltage, it just shuts off. But the ebike takes lithium batteries and the esc uses lead acid.
I don't understand.

[l0aded]

Hey all, hoping someone can help me diagnose an issue.

Out of nowhere my car had a really rough idle when I turned it on where the RPM was at 1.5k from the start. The idle then dropped and the car started shaking as if the car was about to stall and I had to give it some gas.

I drove it around a bit and the issue would intermittently occur at very low RPMs (0 throttle) and seemed to be worse when the AC was turned on. Naturally I turned off the ESC as well.

I really want to stress that it seems intermittent. After I went to the gym with the ESC and AC off, I tried to show a friend the issue and was unable to reproduce. I then turned on the ESC and AC on the way home, did not feel it during the drive (no traffic) but the issue persisted when I got home in my garage.

There are no issues except when idle, neutral or clutch in.

My first guess was my alternator is going bad and isn't generating enough juice at low RPMs when the dump batteries are recharging. Does this seem like a symptom of a failing alternator? Has anyone else had to replace their alternator yet?

Thanks!

[WNDSRFR]

Any CEL's? Codes?
I doubt it has anything to do with the alternator. At the very least the alternator idiot light would come on. Not to mention the car wouldn't start because the starter battery wouldn't get charged. Put a meter on the battery leads. With the engine running you should have at least 14 VDC. If not you have an electrical problem.

My guess and it's just a guess is, it has something to do with fuel. Bad gas, fuel filter, fuel injector, or maybe spark plugs?

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Any CEL's? Codes?
I doubt it has anything to do with the alternator. At the very least the alternator idiot light would come on. Not to mention the car wouldn't start because the starter battery wouldn't get charged. Put a meter on the battery leads. With the engine running you should have at least 14 VDC. If not you have an electrical problem.

My guess and it's just a guess is, it has something to do with fuel. Bad gas, fuel filter, fuel injector, or maybe spark plugs?

Thanks WNDSRFR for the suggestions.

A CEL/traction control light came on yesterday when the RPMs dipped and almost stalled but it cleared when I disconnected the battery. I was testing the alternator by disconnected the connector from the battery terminal (I turned off the car after while the battery was disconnected). I also observed a knock during that test last night @_@.

Based on your feedback, I'm feeling like it isn't the alternator. It does seem related to the ESC though.

I took the ESC (incl the controller) off last night and drove it today and didn't have any issues yet but the sample size is pretty small (< 5 minutes of driving).

My plan is to
- drive it without the ESC for a few days and see if it happens again.
- measure the voltage as you recommended.
- Put back the ESC, if it happens again, try to get the CEL back and find the error code.

Some other thoughts are the ECU reset (when the battery disconnected) may have fixed it. Or possibly I did something wrong on the ESC install.

Regarding bad fuel, fuel filter, fuel injector, or spark plugs, would these manifest symptoms only at low rpms? There has been no issues above 2k rpm so far.

[m111]

Have you checked-cleaned the throttle body?

[Qwimby1]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Mine just quit today. Got exactly the same symptoms. Ordered some new batteries. Hope that's the problem.
It's kinda weird how yesterday it was fine and today it doesn't work at all.
Just like my ebike. It seems to have the same amount of power regardless of the charge of the battery. Until it quits. Once it gets to the cutoff voltage, it just shuts off. But the ebike takes lithium batteries and the esc uses lead acid.
I don't understand.

New AGM dump batteries fixed my problem. One of the old ones I removed only held 11 odd volts after a charge.

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Thanks WNDSRFR for the suggestions.

A CEL/traction control light came on yesterday when the RPMs dipped and almost stalled but it cleared when I disconnected the battery. I was testing the alternator by disconnected the connector from the battery terminal (I turned off the car after while the battery was disconnected). I also observed a knock during that test last night @_@.

Based on your feedback, I'm feeling like it isn't the alternator. It does seem related to the ESC though.

I took the ESC (incl the controller) off last night and drove it today and didn't have any issues yet but the sample size is pretty small (< 5 minutes of driving).

My plan is to
- drive it without the ESC for a few days and see if it happens again.
- measure the voltage as you recommended.
- Put back the ESC, if it happens again, try to get the CEL back and find the error code.

Some other thoughts are the ECU reset (when the battery disconnected) may have fixed it. Or possibly I did something wrong on the ESC install.

Regarding bad fuel, fuel filter, fuel injector, or spark plugs, would these manifest symptoms only at low rpms? There has been no issues above 2k rpm so far.

Since you have the ESC off the car, do you want to sell it?

When mine quit the other day, I automatically assumed it was the batteries. I replaced them and no difference. In fact after I removed the old batteries I checked and they were ok.
Still has the same symptoms: Step on the gas and it runs for half a second and shuts off. Voltage drops from 28.3 to 25 and back to 28.3. I checked all the usual suspects, all the connections and everything looks good. It's too hot to go any further today so in the morning I'll remove the blower and make sure it rotates freely. Next will be the controller. I hope it's not the magic box.