Sub talk.

[Mr.ac]

Those W6 are a beast.
As for power they have a 200w min and a 600w high.RMS power.
From the spec sheet a sealed box has to be .55 and a vented box .75

Given the w6 are about 7" tall no "stealth" boxes would fix unless its custom made. Even then it would stick out noticeably.

As for amps. Class D all the way. I would recommend a 300 watt with a volume knob.

[soundman98]

What is your overall goal? Are you only interested in more/better bass? Does it need to just add a little low end, or does it need to set off car alarms 3 blocks away? What kind of trunk space are you willing to sacrifice? What kind of budget were you originally thinking? Is the rest of the factory system currently up to your standard, or is it lacking more than just bass? What do you currently have the bass/treble settings set to?

I'm trying to get a feel for your intentions before i start running through recommending pieces. There's a way to fit needs for $500, and there's a way to fit needs for $50,000. I'm trying to understand where you fall in price, listening preferences, and expectations.

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by Howaitoguru

Yeah JL doesn’t have one. They just have stealthboxes that go in the passenger side space in the trunk. I guess that’s technically the wheel well too huh? But yeah I meant the wheel well for the spare.


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I had the pioneer one (that fits in the spare tire) in my car, it wasn't quite enough bass with the back seat up for me. So I upgraded to one 10". Some RSX came with the spare tire sub from the factory, so you can still find them used too.

[Howaitoguru]

Originally Posted by soundman98

What is your overall goal? Are you only interested in more/better bass? Does it need to just add a little low end, or does it need to set off car alarms 3 blocks away? What kind of trunk space are you willing to sacrifice? What kind of budget were you originally thinking? Is the rest of the factory system currently up to your standard, or is it lacking more than just bass? What do you currently have the bass/treble settings set to?

I'm trying to get a feel for your intentions before i start running through recommending pieces. There's a way to fit needs for $500, and there's a way to fit needs for $50,000. I'm trying to understand where you fall in price, listening preferences, and expectations.

Goal? I just want a solid enough upgrade to where I don’t have to worry about blowing my speakers. I’m going to upgrade the tweeters and shit in the dash. And the door speakers and rear speakers. I wanna add some bass in the trunk. I’m not trying to set off car alarms. But I want it to hit hard as fuck if I choose too. I do like hearing my music from outside the car occasionally. As of now my settings are on flat and I keep the volume at 35 max so that I don’t blow any of my speakers. And that’s the stock pos system. And ummmm. Idk I figure if I do the labor which I’m fine with I wouldn’t mind spending $1500-$2200 on parts. And the reason I was pushing for the w6 10’s is because I know they would hit hard and be reliable. But if I can get something smaller that will fit that would be fine. And trunk space isn’t that big of a deal because I’m not planning on putting anything back there and with my back seat delete I can fit my electrical tools where the back seat used to be and some groceries at times. So it’s not that big of a deal.


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[Howaitoguru]

This is why I wanted one where the spare is btw my trunk keeps collapsing because I took the spare and all the tools out.


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[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

I had the pioneer one (that fits in the spare tire) in my car, it wasn't quite enough bass with the back seat up for me. So I upgraded to one 10". Some RSX came with the spare tire sub from the factory, so you can still find them used too.

the rsx and murano used the same spare tire sub. i have one. they're going for around $75 on ebay. 1. it's a bose product, 2. it's got dual 5" drivers in a ported enclosure.

i haven't hooked mine up yet, got it mostly for the novelty. i know going into it that it's going to be best suited for soft listening volumes of classical/rock/country.








@Howaitoguru

preventing speakers from blowing is all about the tuning of the system, not exactly the gear chosen.

with the rubber mat in the trunk, the sub is going to have a hard time breathing, usually when a sub takes the place of the spare, they cover it with speaker grille fabric so the sub can push air around the trunk.

if you're looking to hit hard, be sure to include sound dampening in the overall build-- the trunk lid needs it at a minimum, i had to do the rear deck as well. account for around $100 for material for that.


for the sub, you like the w6, so while i've got plenty of oddball recommendations, it looks like it should fit fine yet in this box at least according to the airspace requirements:
https://shop.wickedcas.com/scion-fr-...ab-description

though you'd need to contact them to be sure that the depth would not be an issue, as it's not listed in the description. $375 is on par for fiberglass work.

of course, a spare tire box would also be a possibility. the difference being that if you go with the link, if you decide 1 is not enough, it's easier to add a second to the other side at any point down the road.

i think it's fair to budget around $300-400 for a custom box of either design.

as far as the amp, i recommend the alpine v9. i generally go through sonic electronix, as they offer their own warranty to guarantee that it'll work, despite them not being a certified alpine reseller-- which means they can sell it cheaper--usually around $400-460 compared to $800-ish from a normal reseller. price-wise the v9 is one of the better-priced 100x4 + 500x1 amps from any brand. i was just researching an amp for my truck build and couldn't find a better cost-per-watt amp from anyone else at the moment.

i would also recommend one of these to tune the system.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...audio--230-500

i've currently got one on order for my truck build, as i'm running into an issue where the deck won't cross over the a-pillar speakers any higher than 200hz, and they start buzzing with any frequencies under 600hz

another important note is to look specifically for OFC, Oxygen Free Copper wiring. CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum is starting to become the norm, but it has issues at high power levels with heating up. i generally recommend knuconcepts kolosses flex line, for it's consistent quality.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...tallation-kit/


and that's just the sub/amp/wiring. still not a main deck, or front speakers. my rough tally puts the cost(depending on reseller deals) for this alone around $1700.


for front speakers, i highly recommend you try some different component speakers at the local shops. for instance, i generally find kenwoods to 'exist'. they don't play extremely loud usually, but they also don't call attention to themselves.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...FC-P710PS.html

then there's component speakers like the infinity reference. i love the midrange response of them, always have, but i have a special hatred for the tweeters they use. i find them much too shrill. but many people like the sound infinities offer.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...FC-P710PS.html

pioneer also has a few offerings in the same price bracket that might be worth considering.

i would not recommend spending more than $200 for a front component set. they don't upgrade the electronics in the higher end versions, they only use more exotic speaker materials, so unless you're into bragging rights about what things are made of, there's no point.

i also don't really see a point to recommending anything for the rear speakers, as those are really just very basic 3" speakers loosely attached to a bracket, so not as much is gained by spending money on them. personally, i haven't run rear speakers in 10 years now, and i don't miss them. in a car with rear 6x9's, it would be justifiable to replace them, but not in the case of these cars.


for a more 'oddball' setup, i recommend some gear that i'm running:
in the dash:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...8-ohm--295-349

in the doors:
https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1092

with the v9 amp, i don't believe i've ever had the volume above 30(goes up to 62 on my radio)

[Howaitoguru]

Originally Posted by soundman98

the rsx and murano used the same spare tire sub. i have one. they're going for around $75 on ebay. 1. it's a bose product, 2. it's got dual 5" drivers in a ported enclosure.



i haven't hooked mine up yet, got it mostly for the novelty. i know going into it that it's going to be best suited for soft listening volumes of classical/rock/country.
















@Howaitoguru



preventing speakers from blowing is all about the tuning of the system, not exactly the gear chosen.



with the rubber mat in the trunk, the sub is going to have a hard time breathing, usually when a sub takes the place of the spare, they cover it with speaker grille fabric so the sub can push air around the trunk.



if you're looking to hit hard, be sure to include sound dampening in the overall build-- the trunk lid needs it at a minimum, i had to do the rear deck as well. account for around $100 for material for that.





for the sub, you like the w6, so while i've got plenty of oddball recommendations, it looks like it should fit fine yet in this box at least according to the airspace requirements:

https://shop.wickedcas.com/scion-fr-...ab-description



though you'd need to contact them to be sure that the depth would not be an issue, as it's not listed in the description. $375 is on par for fiberglass work.



of course, a spare tire box would also be a possibility. the difference being that if you go with the link, if you decide 1 is not enough, it's easier to add a second to the other side at any point down the road.



i think it's fair to budget around $300-400 for a custom box of either design.



as far as the amp, i recommend the alpine v9. i generally go through sonic electronix, as they offer their own warranty to guarantee that it'll work, despite them not being a certified alpine reseller-- which means they can sell it cheaper--usually around $400-460 compared to $800-ish from a normal reseller. price-wise the v9 is one of the better-priced 100x4 + 500x1 amps from any brand. i was just researching an amp for my truck build and couldn't find a better cost-per-watt amp from anyone else at the moment.



i would also recommend one of these to tune the system.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...audio--230-500



i've currently got one on order for my truck build, as i'm running into an issue where the deck won't cross over the a-pillar speakers any higher than 200hz, and they start buzzing with any frequencies under 600hz



another important note is to look specifically for OFC, Oxygen Free Copper wiring. CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum is starting to become the norm, but it has issues at high power levels with heating up. i generally recommend knuconcepts kolosses flex line, for it's consistent quality.



http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...tallation-kit/





and that's just the sub/amp/wiring. still not a main deck, or front speakers. my rough tally puts the cost(depending on reseller deals) for this alone around $1700.





for front speakers, i highly recommend you try some different component speakers at the local shops. for instance, i generally find kenwoods to 'exist'. they don't play extremely loud usually, but they also don't call attention to themselves.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...FC-P710PS.html



then there's component speakers like the infinity reference. i love the midrange response of them, always have, but i have a special hatred for the tweeters they use. i find them much too shrill. but many people like the sound infinities offer.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...FC-P710PS.html



pioneer also has a few offerings in the same price bracket that might be worth considering.



i would not recommend spending more than $200 for a front component set. they don't upgrade the electronics in the higher end versions, they only use more exotic speaker materials, so unless you're into bragging rights about what things are made of, there's no point.



i also don't really see a point to recommending anything for the rear speakers, as those are really just very basic 3" speakers loosely attached to a bracket, so not as much is gained by spending money on them. personally, i haven't run rear speakers in 10 years now, and i don't miss them. in a car with rear 6x9's, it would be justifiable to replace them, but not in the case of these cars.





for a more 'oddball' setup, i recommend some gear that i'm running:

in the dash:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...8-ohm--295-349



in the doors:

https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1092



with the v9 amp, i don't believe i've ever had the volume above 30(goes up to 62 on my radio)

Awesome. Like honestly I really appreciate the advice on that. That will definitely help me make a better decision.


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