Wheel stud replacement

[CenCali86]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

What kind of spacers are you supposed to run with extended studs? All i find are spacers with studs already built in.

I have 20mm spacers that came with no studs up front. Any larger and they only come with studs, trust me I made many phone calls to find that out.

I just used the 25mm with studs and pressed out the studs that came in the spacer. Works great and no issues after the 8k miles I have driven since install.

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

What kind of spacers are you supposed to run with extended studs? All i find are spacers with studs already built in.

This is who I bought from. Excellent quality and the can be BOTH Hub Centric and Wheel Centric for a perfect fit. Highly recommend them. They can make a spacer in ANY size you need as well.

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/wheel_spacers.html

I am using ARP studs with these.

[jdmblood]

i dont have a press. whats the easiest alternative to a press?
@Dave-ROR hows the ball joint seperator to complete this?

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

i dont have a press. whats the easiest alternative to a press?
@Dave-ROR hows the ball joint seperator to complete this?

Just use a vice or something that can support the assembly while not pounding the shit out of the hub.

i had good success with just pounding them back in with a hammer and extension (hammer head is too big to pound them in directly, will hit the hub almost assuredly)

Something like this would work too. They are just using a long socket over the stud.




This is kinda how i got mine out and in (reverse the process)

[qoncept]

Who has ever had a bearing fail because they hammered out wheel studs?

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by qoncept

Who has ever had a bearing fail because they hammered out wheel studs?

Who knows, but i'm sure not going to risk it. I'm sure it's rare to hear someone say they hammered them and they immediately failed.

but, who knows in 20k or more how much quicker they will fail. I guess i'd rather not deal with that.

[jdmblood]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Who knows, but i'm sure not going to risk it. I'm sure it's rare to hear someone say they hammered them and they immediately failed.

but, who knows in 20k or more how much quicker they will fail. I guess i'd rather not deal with that.

you stated earlier that you hammered them out yourselves but are now stating that you are not going to risk bearing failure by hammering them out?

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

you stated earlier that you hammered them out yourselves but are now stating that you are not going to risk bearing failure by hammering them out?

I hammered them out the proper way, by supporting the hub so when I hammered, i did not damage the bearing.

See the above images i posted, if you do that and support the hub by the plate that holds the studs, you will not risk damaging the bearing.

[jdmblood]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

I hammered them out the proper way, by supporting the hub so when I hammered, i did not damage the bearing.

See the above images i posted, if you do that and support the hub by the plate that holds the studs, you will not risk damaging the bearing.

ohh ok thank you for clearing that up. One last question. What are you supposed to attach the blue thing to? The floor?

[Gopherboy6956]

The vice? A workbench, typically. Or anything solid you can bolt it to.

[RMP]

Used this tool to remove the studs:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Works great, no complaints.

Used this tool to install the studs:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer: Automotive[/ame]

It's cheaper and more portable than a shop press and safer than a stack of washers. It has a bearing on the side that faces the hub so that it rotates during install. I did notice
that a small area of the gold coating on the ARP studs was worn off after install, but the threads look good.

[jdmblood]

Is it possible to get the brakes off without a power tool? Trying to get them off by hand but the socket doesn't want to buldge

[Gopherboy6956]

Absolutely. Use a breaker bar

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by bryan767

PSA DO NOT USE ICHIBA EXTENDED STUDS. They are a thinner knurl diameter than stock, and WILL STRIP YOUR HUB. I found out the hard way, after I was all done and tightening the lug nuts, when a stud started spinning. Luckily I was able to reseat the stock studs and put the stock wheels on.


So now I ordered ARP extended studs, they are supposed to have a .565 (14.351mm) knurl, whereas stock is allegedly just (14.35mm? -Need to verify oem). Ichiba's have to be 14.30-14.32mm.

As for the C-Clamp (which is still doable in a pinch), I ditched the idea when I came across a really nice DIY thread on a different website, mentioning a Harbor Freight ball joint separator tool. It features a removable pin/fulcrum and higher holes to increase the range to accommodate much longer studs. It works FLAWLESSLY for removing studs without removing the hub, and no bearing damage!!

http://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart...tor-99849.html

The hub is just a hole, it's not "threaded" so can't be stripped. The knurl holds it in. Too small and it will spin simply because it's too small.