2014 86CUP presented by Winmax, rules and schedule

[retrosmiths]

I see, that makes sense.

[BongMan]

Is the Driveway Labs Rear Diffuser considered ".50 - Level 2 Rear Aero: full underbody tray with diffuser"
or just ".25 - Level 1 Rear Aero: rear diffuser?"

link to said part/product

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42605

Is that the same for the Cleib diffuser as well?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42605

Thanks in advance.
BongMan

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BongMan

Is the Driveway Labs Rear Diffuser considered ".50 - Level 2 Rear Aero: full underbody tray with diffuser"
or just ".25 - Level 1 Rear Aero: rear diffuser?"

link to said part/product

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42605

Is that the same for the Cleib diffuser as well?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42605

Thanks in advance.
BongMan

Those should both be Level 1 rear aero, for 0.25 points

The differentiater between level 1 and level 2 is whether it connects the diffuser to the middle section of the body

[A3r0pusH]

Do you guys require a minimum year rating on the helmets for competition? I have a snell 2000 rated helmet that I am thinking about using, but wanted to check first if that was ok.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by A3r0pusH

Do you guys require a minimum year rating on the helmets for competition? I have a snell 2000 rated helmet that I am thinking about using, but wanted to check first if that was ok.

Nope. The event is self-tech, per the organizer. It's your noggin though...

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by A3r0pusH

Do you guys require a minimum year rating on the helmets for competition? I have a snell 2000 rated helmet that I am thinking about using, but wanted to check first if that was ok.

At a minimum I recommend a SA-rated helmet.

If it was my head, I'd protect it with something SA2010. A 2000-rated helmet would be at least 8(!) years old!

-alex

[A3r0pusH]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Nope. The event is self-tech, per the organizer. It's your noggin though...

Originally Posted by mav1178

At a minimum I recommend a SA-rated helmet.

If it was my head, I'd protect it with something SA2010. A 2000-rated helmet would be at least 8(!) years old!

-alex

Its something left over from karting days, but the better thing would be to buy new like you guys are saying. Hope to see you guys out there some time soon.

[solidONE]

I seriously don't get why springs are worth .5 pts and the BBK and sways are free... it makes no sense to me. Cannot detune my car in time for the BW round... gahhhh....!!

[YodrOne]

Didn't read the whole thread so might be missing it, but when is this coming to the east coast?! I have at least five excellent tracks within a 4hr radius...

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I seriously don't get why springs are worth .5 pts and the BBK and sways are free... it makes no sense to me. Cannot detune my car in time for the BW round... gahhhh....!!

Brakes don't determine how "fast" you are on the track... brakes + quality tires make or break this part of the equation.

As for sway bars... have you ever driven a car on the track with sway bars? I have.

On my car, if I added sway bars I won't run any faster, but I'll end up in unintended spins or drifts because the car will be too snappy.

-alex

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Brakes don't determine how "fast" you are on the track... brakes + quality tires make or break this part of the equation.

As for sway bars... have you ever driven a car on the track with sway bars? I have.

On my car, if I added sway bars I won't run any faster, but I'll end up in unintended spins or drifts because the car will be too snappy.

-alex

So your saying shorter stopping distance and less brake fade will not yield faster consistent laps? You probably went to big on the rear bar causing it to be snappy. What was your setup?

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by solidONE

So your saying shorter stopping distance and less brake fade will not yield faster consistent laps? You probably went to big on the rear bar causing it to be snappy. What was your setup?

Stopping distance is entirely dictated by your tires. You can run the craziest brakes in the world, and it won't do jack for you if you have stock Primacy tires.

This is why there's so much emphasis on the tire compounds, sticker rubber get you more in return (in the form of better/shorter braking distance). Same with aero, downforce = better traction = better braking.

As for sway bar: I have not installed my Whiteline on the car yet, and frankly (after today's sessions at Big Willow) I have zero need for sway bars at this point. The car handles great right now, adding sway bars will just make the suspension a bit too sharp for my driving style at the track.

In the end, sway bars will not make a big enough difference to be measurable on the track. Both sway bars + brakes will be impacted by how much/little traction you have... hence the "free" mod.

-alex

[solidONE]

RS3 is plenty of tire to exploit big brakes... Decreasing front end roll thus better contact patch throughout the turn will allow you to maintain more speed during a corner. Same idea, in that sense, as springs. I motion to lift the .5 pts on lowering springs. Or add points to sways and BBKs.

[retrosmiths]

Off-recent-topic: @CSG Mike, how does one acquire data logs like this for the track event?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=4MCAMKl5_DU"]Boxster Spyder 2:04 lap time @ Thunderhill over the crows nest - YouTube[/ame]

I have the Torque app and it does log some data, but I don't know how to export them to a video overlay. Suggestions?