KPower Industries K24 swap

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Reminder that you probably also need a Haltech CAN hub for that

Edit: also, I realized my bar is 22mm. It clears by miles.

Thanks a ton!

Yeah I decided to just get a generic OBD2 gauge as it should have everything I'd want like oil pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, etc.. and would save me wiring hassle and $$$

[RedReplicant]

Has anyone tested one of the OEM K flywheel covers to see if they fit?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Has anyone tested one of the OEM K flywheel covers to see if they fit?

I haven’t checked, but I also think I would need to check clearance with the oil pan and see if tgere is no flywheel poke because if there is clearance than a sheet of 16 gauge steel or aluminum should be fine and easy to cut and bolt into the adapter, if not using the existing holes than with custom drill and tapped holes.



These could work, but they are unproven.

https://www.kseriesparts.com/HON-21351-PNA-000.html


https://kpower.industries/collection...el-dust-shield

[Petah78]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

- The swap itself was a gigantic PITA, maybe cuz I did nearly everything on my own but I don't think I would do a swap like this again, I'm too old for this shit lmao

Thanks for posting the video and sharing your experience. I looked into swapping a K24 as well but after looking at the costs and efforts required, getting a Gen2 appeared to be the better option, especially with the strong resale.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I haven’t checked, but I also think I would need to check clearance with the oil pan and see if tgere is no flywheel poke because if there is clearance than a sheet of 16 gauge steel or aluminum should be fine and easy to cut and bolt into the adapter, if not using the existing holes than with custom drill and tapped holes.

I was hoping for an easy button Buy It Now thing since it is over 100f in the garage for the next 4-5 months. I shot KPower a message and asked if the slim one they sell has been test fit (at first glance the bottom bolt doesn't line up) and I'll report back on that, otherwise I'll do what you said and make one out of sheet.

[RedReplicant]

Trying not to spam up this thread, but I figured I'd crosspost a little bit here from my 'build' thread since it might be relevant to other people.

1. I went with the KPower Miata right exit waterneck (https://kpower.industries/collection...r-coolant-neck)
2. I needed a M12x1.5 plug for the extra Miata coolant temperature sensor bung, the housing comes with a 5/8" barb fitting
3. I used the Tractuff 5/8 barb thermostat housing adapter (https://tractuff.com/products/tractu...t-port-adapter)
4. On the left side of the motor I used a couple Dayco 80401, a couple of aluminum 5/8" unions, and some spare tube to connect the intake manifold, water outlet, and thermostat housing
5. On the left side of the motor I used the entire stock front tube, hacked up the KPower supplied tube, did a bit of NAPA hose diving and settled on a 8721 with a 1 1/4" aluminum union.
6. I left the stock wiring harness plastic bracket on the car and trimmed it a tiny bit, which might not have been needed

I'm hoping the left side stuff helps bleeding / warmup and the right side stuff seems a lot cleaner to me. I still need to make some kind of brackets for the hose for my own personal peace of mind.








Where did you guys run the large negative terminal ground to? I ran the engine harness ground to the terminal on top of the transmission, but I'm kind of thinking I should just run them both there even though it sucks to get to.

Also, what did you ziptie / mount the main engine harness connector to for strain reduction?

[RedReplicant]

Well, it is on the ground, running, and drives.

First order of business is figuring out why it isn't charging.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Well, it is on the ground, running, and drives.

First order of business is figuring out why it isn't charging.

Congrats!!

What sort of stuff have you done so far to troubleshoot the charging issue?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Congrats!!

What sort of stuff have you done so far to troubleshoot the charging issue?

Tyler in the FB group got me sorted out

Turns out I somehow moved the EFI2 relay to the wrong spot when taking apart my fuse box to remove the Harrop supercharger kit I had on the car prior.



Few more things I've noticed that I need to add to the (already long) list:
1. Secure the fuel lines in the engine bay so they can't vibrate
2. Oil temp sensor calibration is way off
3. Need to make the throttle body mapping updates Tyler posted on FB (https://i.imgur.com/S3PTOtF.jpg)
4. The out of the box tune is looking for 43.5psi fuel pressure, my surge tank FPR is set to 60psi, need to fix that. I greatly prefer a fuel pressure sensor so I can add a failsafe.

Also, interestingly, I was able to completely pump out my completely full tank with the in tank pump. Not sure what is going on inside of it it but I pumped the entire thing out and I was able to put 12gal of 91 into the car and it could still have taken more. I assume it has to do with the surge tank.


The car seems like it might bleed fine, the thermostat opened up but I boiled the fluid up and out of my Liste funnel.

[zuldajin]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

2. Oil temp sensor calibration is way off

The car seems like it might bleed fine, the thermostat opened up but I boiled the fluid up and out of my Liste funnel.

Is your oil temp sensor reading also stuck reading -40c?

Mine is doing the same thing, I've tried the various Haltech/Bosch temp sensor calibrations and its still the same.

Oil pressure readings are fine, however.

I also used the Miata right side coolant neck and added the extra heater hoses on the left side, I've found after bleeding with the Lisle funnel a few times, just top it off, close the radiator cap and see if you get heat/are fully bled.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by zuldajin

Is your oil temp sensor reading also stuck reading -40c?

Mine is doing the same thing, I've tried the various Haltech/Bosch temp sensor calibrations and its still the same.

Oil pressure readings are fine, however.

I also used the Miata right side coolant neck and added the extra heater hoses on the left side, I've found after bleeding with the Lisle funnel a few times, just top it off, close the radiator cap and see if you get heat/are fully bled.

I used the calibration posted by ML in this thread, the numbers seemed sane to me when I was looking at it pre-start. Saw 90f on a 'cold' motor which felt in the ballpark to my garage temp. File: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QLq...ew?usp=sharing

My oil pressure is also good.

I don't have a heater box in my car anymore, but I just went out and drove it around for about twenty minutes. Coolant temps stayed around 218f, not sure if it is bled completely or not yet, I'm going to stick the funnel back into it once it cools down later today and try it again since I refuse to believe that it was that easy after reading horror stories here.

Few notes from my first drive:
1. The Sachs Sport Metallic 4 puck that I was worried about feels like a stock clutch, absolutely zero issues and a massive relief.

2. I forgot to plug in the wideband after moving everything to its final location, the car felt like it wasn't going into VTEC but still felt about as quick as my FA20 bolt-on BRZ so I wasn't positive. Plugged in the O2 sensor and now we're getting somewhere, feels pretty good on the base map for what it is but I'm sure a proper tune will be night and day.

3. I left my breathers open since I'm waiting on my catch can stuff to show up and I also overfilled the crankcase by a quart thinking I was going to plumb in my oil cooler before first drive. Yeah, now I have a bit of an oil mist mess to clean up.

4. NVH isn't too bad at all for what the car is. Would I consider it a daily level? Nah. On the track car scale it is pretty tame. Intake noise for whatever reason isn't as loud as my 08 Civic Si, 02 S2000 track car, etc so that is kind of surprising.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I don't have a heater box in my car anymore, but I just went out and drove it around for about twenty minutes. Coolant temps stayed around 218f, not sure if it is bled completely or not yet, I'm going to stick the funnel back into it once it cools down later today and try it again since I refuse to believe that it was that easy after reading horror stories here.

I noticed once I got my coolant FULLY bleed (cuz everytime I thought it was bleed turns out but wait there's more!) my temps FINALLY got below <198 at idle/slow speed and <188 cruising. IMO since you are cruising around 218f I do believe you have some more bleeding to do.

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Few notes from my first drive:
1. The Sachs Sport Metallic 4 puck that I was worried about feels like a stock clutch, absolutely zero issues and a massive relief.

I put in an action clutch with Kpowers 9lb super light flywheel and it feels like stock lol I don't get it. Actually, I am kind of disappointed it doesn't have more feel to it (say compared to my 370z or Rx7).

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

I noticed once I got my coolant FULLY bleed (cuz everytime I thought it was bleed turns out but wait there's more!) my temps FINALLY got below <198 at idle/slow speed and <188 cruising. IMO since you are cruising around 218f I do believe you have some more bleeding to do.



I put in an action clutch with Kpowers 9lb super light flywheel and it feels like stock lol I don't get it. Actually, I am kind of disappointed it doesn't have more feel to it (say compared to my 370z or Rx7).

I think you're right. I'll work on it, I'm guessing it is trapping air in the water neck and maybe after the rise between the thermostat and the radiator inlet.

Haha, I am also on the 9lb. It all just feels like a normal street clutch, not grabby or irritating to manage. The car had an OSGiken HTR in it before, that thing is a turd.

[captain awesome]

If you guys want a little more feel to the clutch action I recommend the 3/4" slave upgrade. I also removed the assistance spring at the pedal assembly. Both changes make the clutch perfect in my experience.


Link to slave swap