my lug stud broke... - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Sasquachulator · 10-31-2022, 12:24 AM

So i was swapping to winter tires, and one of my stud nuts was incredibly hard to remove. Usually just stomping on tire iron provides enough torque to loosen the nut, but this one didnt move. after a few stomps it just broke off. Theres just barely enough stud to fasten a nut to with the winter tires on.

This wheel also happens to have my other compromised stud (stripped at bit, but still usable) so i can just replace both at once.

I have had no issues with the remaining 3 studs (so far), and the rest of the wheels have had no issues either.

Im wondering if i should just replace all 5 studs instead of just the two since the wheel hub will be opened up.

soundman98 · 10-31-2022, 12:40 AM

front or rear?

Sasquachulator · 10-31-2022, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98

front or rear?

rear, drivers side.

soundman98 · 10-31-2022, 02:31 AM

I'd struggle on all of them

Breadman · 10-31-2022, 08:02 AM

You can pound out the rear studs and play with them until you get the right angle to get them out, then put in standard length arp studs. Extended studs are too long to do this on the rear.

ThatYeti · 10-31-2022, 09:08 AM

Ya, find a set of replacement ARP studs and get a long handled torq stick (wrench). Jumping on a lug wrench is likely a recipe for bad news, similar to using an impact to put lugs on. Swapped all my studs last winter after having similar issues from PO taking it to shops who'd use impact guns on splined nuts.

RToyo86 · 10-31-2022, 09:29 AM

+1 for harder ARP OEM length studs if you want a one and done solution.

Otherwise if the other stud threads are in good shape and spin easily by hand I'd leave em and toss OEMs in where needed.

x808drifter · 10-31-2022, 09:46 AM

If ya got the money and the time get it over with and change them all to
ARP ones.

Desertnate · 10-31-2022, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RToyo86

+1 for harder ARP OEM length studs if you want a one and done solution.

Otherwise if the other stud threads are in good shape and spin easily by hand I'd leave em and toss OEMs in where needed.

I've heard of studs breaking from several Subi owners on various platforms. Is this as wide-spread of a problem across the brand as it seems to be?

Years ago I had a couple break on an Outback Wagon I owned at the time, but thought it was due to age of the car and poor service by the previous owner. Now I'm starting to wonder.

Glad to hear there is an aftermarket option.

Decep · 11-04-2022, 01:18 AM

Seems to be. Never had a problem on any other car. Changed to ARP and never had a problem again.

CSG Mike · 11-07-2022, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RToyo86

+1 for harder ARP OEM length studs if you want a one and done solution.

Otherwise if the other stud threads are in good shape and spin easily by hand I'd leave em and toss OEMs in where needed.

This is the answer. CSG has OEM length ARPs in stock.

blsfrs · 11-08-2022, 08:48 AM

Just a thought on your (lug) nuts. When I installed ARP studs, I purchased Gorilla nuts. These came with a specific socket that you have to keep track of. If left on the ground, it will always roll to the center of the car or some other hard to reach place. When you need it, is it in the center console, glovebox, tool kit, or somewhere in the trunk?

Solution? I got Mcgard(?) lug nuts. It's 13/16". I use an old spark plug socket and a 3/8" breaker bar that I switched out in place of the stock lug wrench

Spuds · 11-08-2022, 10:26 AM

When this happened to me years ago I just got some Dorman replacement studs from NAPA. Much harder and sturdier than the OEM studs. I just replaced the broken ones because it is a PITA and I just wanted to drive the car lol.

I haven't broken any oem studs that were appropriately torqued. Of course the PA state inspection techs don't use a torque wrench, but that's not my problem anymore lol.

e_lunatic · 11-12-2022, 10:44 PM

I had an issue with the dealer who totally screwed up my studs and i ended up breaking 2 off before taking it back to the dealer to have them replaced.

the ARP lugs are great but if you want to keep the OEM studs here's what you need to do:

under no circumstances let anyone else installing the wheels use an impact gun.

the way you described how you're removing them sounds like you were putting pressure on the stubs beyond the pressure is supposed to be distributed.

its not big deal to use an impact to take off the lugs (1/2 drive impact)
before putting the lugs back on use either some pressure lube or anti-seize
start by hand threading, then you can zip them on with a 3/8 impact if you have one but don't drive them into the wheel once they stop turning.
use torque wrench to tighten them the rest of the way.

I have been doing this and have had ZERO issues with my OEM studs.

10-31-2022, 12:24 AM	#1
Sasquachulator Pavement Grey Join Date: Dec 2011 Drives: 2020 Toyota 86 GT, 2017 BMW X1 Location: Calgary Posts: 3,084 Thanks: 109 Thanked 2,223 Times in 1,205 Posts Mentioned: 8 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	my lug stud broke... So i was swapping to winter tires, and one of my stud nuts was incredibly hard to remove. Usually just stomping on tire iron provides enough torque to loosen the nut, but this one didnt move. after a few stomps it just broke off. Theres just barely enough stud to fasten a nut to with the winter tires on. This wheel also happens to have my other compromised stud (stripped at bit, but still usable) so i can just replace both at once. I have had no issues with the remaining 3 studs (so far), and the rest of the wheels have had no issues either. Im wondering if i should just replace all 5 studs instead of just the two since the wheel hub will be opened up.

10-31-2022, 12:40 AM	#2
soundman98 ProCrastinationConsultant Join Date: Sep 2013 Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB Location: chicago-ish Posts: 11,330 Thanks: 35,240 Thanked 13,673 Times in 6,781 Posts Mentioned: 98 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	front or rear? __________________ "The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"

10-31-2022, 02:31 AM	#4
soundman98 ProCrastinationConsultant Join Date: Sep 2013 Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB Location: chicago-ish Posts: 11,330 Thanks: 35,240 Thanked 13,673 Times in 6,781 Posts Mentioned: 98 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I'd struggle on all of them __________________ "The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"

11-04-2022, 01:18 AM	#10
Decep Senior Member Join Date: May 2017 Drives: 2013 FR-S Series 10 Location: CA Posts: 1,073 Thanks: 172 Thanked 497 Times in 326 Posts Mentioned: 6 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Seems to be. Never had a problem on any other car. Changed to ARP and never had a problem again. __________________ 2013 FR-S 10 Series ~75k (SOLD) RCE SS-1 Coilovers Corsa Catback Edelbrock Supercharger installed @ 50k

11-08-2022, 10:26 AM	#13
Spuds The Dictater Join Date: Apr 2017 Drives: '13 Red Scion FRS Location: MD, USA Posts: 9,432 Thanks: 26,115 Thanked 12,433 Times in 6,148 Posts Mentioned: 85 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	When this happened to me years ago I just got some Dorman replacement studs from NAPA. Much harder and sturdier than the OEM studs. I just replaced the broken ones because it is a PITA and I just wanted to drive the car lol. I haven't broken any oem studs that were appropriately torqued. Of course the PA state inspection techs don't use a torque wrench, but that's not my problem anymore lol. __________________ If a picture is worth a thousand words, a model is worth ten thousand pictures. Also: "Build Thread"

10-31-2022, 08:02 AM	#5
Breadman Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Drives: 2017 BRZ w/PP Location: Pa Posts: 1,027 Thanks: 51 Thanked 302 Times in 225 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	You can pound out the rear studs and play with them until you get the right angle to get them out, then put in standard length arp studs. Extended studs are too long to do this on the rear.

10-31-2022, 09:08 AM	#6
ThatYeti Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Drives: BRZ Location: Connecticut Posts: 191 Thanks: 43 Thanked 25 Times in 23 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Ya, find a set of replacement ARP studs and get a long handled torq stick (wrench). Jumping on a lug wrench is likely a recipe for bad news, similar to using an impact to put lugs on. Swapped all my studs last winter after having similar issues from PO taking it to shops who'd use impact guns on splined nuts.

10-31-2022, 09:29 AM	#7
RToyo86 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Drives: 17 Asphalt 86 Location: Ottawa Posts: 2,169 Thanks: 1,709 Thanked 2,213 Times in 1,130 Posts Mentioned: 13 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	+1 for harder ARP OEM length studs if you want a one and done solution. Otherwise if the other stud threads are in good shape and spin easily by hand I'd leave em and toss OEMs in where needed.

10-31-2022, 09:46 AM	#8
x808drifter LMGTFY Join Date: Mar 2016 Drives: 13 FRS, 91 Miata Location: Lava Town, HI Posts: 2,776 Thanks: 5,561 Thanked 3,646 Times in 1,625 Posts Mentioned: 15 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	If ya got the money and the time get it over with and change them all to ARP ones.

11-08-2022, 08:48 AM	#12
blsfrs Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2018 Drives: 2013 frs base Location: central Virginia Posts: 1,115 Thanks: 1,729 Thanked 912 Times in 473 Posts Mentioned: 12 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Just a thought on your (lug) nuts. When I installed ARP studs, I purchased Gorilla nuts. These came with a specific socket that you have to keep track of. If left on the ground, it will always roll to the center of the car or some other hard to reach place. When you need it, is it in the center console, glovebox, tool kit, or somewhere in the trunk? Solution? I got Mcgard(?) lug nuts. It's 13/16". I use an old spark plug socket and a 3/8" breaker bar that I switched out in place of the stock lug wrench

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