CSG Spec Tein Flex A Owners Thread

[CounterSpace Garage]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Thanks for the reply! That's what my gut feeling was telling me, I wish I saw this confirmation earlier.
Given that at this point I've dialed in everything else, for now I'll keep the preloads as is, hoping it was haven't altered them too much. Maybe I'll come back to that next time I do corner balancing.

Having read the supplied Installation Instructions, I'm not too surprised. For me this was the first time installing coilovers and I have to say that at times those instructions were more misleading than useful. On page 6, for example, the instruction clearly talk about adjusting the ride height with the spring seats like on more basic coilovers, not using the lower bracket.

The installation instructions don't mention anything about preload. They do provide the spec of the length of the unloaded springs on the last two pages, but one needs to be pretty proficient with coilovers to know they should look there. I'm also not sure if measuring spring length is reliable enough, it seems that something like "one more full turn after the spring becomes snug" would be a bit more precise.

For comparison, this video from FactionFab is amazing:

It explains how things work (in a way even dummy can understand), how to dial everything properly, and even provides a table of coilover length vs typical ride height, accounting for the suspension geometry. And it's less than 5 minutes long.

Don't get me wrong, I'm overall really happy with choosing CSG TEIN Coilovers (more detailed review will follow in a few days once I come back from a track day). But the supplied installation instructions have so much boilerplate, and yet insufficient actual instructions (or even misleading!) that when I got help from more experienced car guys we basically ended up installing "how we see fit", only checking the instructions for torque specs. If FactionFab can casually explain so much in under 5 minutes, I'm sure you could explain the installation and basic setup in 5–10 minutes too.

The manual provides a measured distance between the collars, which is to reduce complexity in this operation. This takes the guess of what "zero preload" is and what the nominal "preload" value is. Videos are one of those things that requires time to shoot and edit. Some of our team members have had background in that industry in the past, but time and budget is not something we possess. Whatever funding we have goes straight into R&D and testing so the community can benefit. We doubt we'll ever recover all the costs sunk into work in the CSG FLA, but the product is proof that our desired level of consistency, methodology, and concepts can be packaged accordingly to meet a set of goals. We hope to see you out on track soon and hope to chat more in person.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

The manual provides a measured distance between the collars, which is to reduce complexity in this operation. This takes the guess of what "zero preload" is and what the nominal "preload" value is.

I guess you're referring to page 5.

Can you please elaborate how to interpret those distances to dial in the right amount of preload?
The provided values are (e.g. for the front strut):
A) distance between the top of the shock body (is this the correct term?) and the lower bracket lock,
B) distance between the seat lock and the lower bracket lock
C) distance between the top of the shock body and the slot for the upper hub bolt
D) distance between the seat lock and the same slot

All these four values depend on the ride height. I guess one could subtract B from A to figure out where the seat lock should be positioned. However, given the geometry of the coilovers, I'd guestimate that many people can be off by 1-2mm when taking those measurements in practice. Not sure why that's better than just "turn the top collar until the spring is snug, then turn X more turns".

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

Videos are one of those things that requires time to shoot and edit. Some of our team members have had background in that industry in the past, but time and budget is not something we possess. Whatever funding we have goes straight into R&D and testing so the community can benefit. We doubt we'll ever recover all the costs sunk into work in the CSG FLA, but the product is proof that our desired level of consistency, methodology, and concepts can be packaged accordingly to meet a set of goals.

Understandably. A video would be nice, but if that's too much effort just a decent text+pics instruction would suffice. I wonder if we could just crowdsource it, e.g. someone could write a Google Doc with instructions, other folks on this forum could review/amend and you could "approve" some version and publish it in the product listing?
I'd be happy to take a first stab at that doc if you agree it's useful.

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

We hope to see you out on track soon and hope to chat more in person.

Hope to see you at the track too!

[doug1234]

What wheel and tire package are you tracking?

I have a 17 BRZ w/pp currently running 215/45r17 Hankook RS4 on stock wheels.

My CSG Flex A are set at the recommended height with a -2.5 front camber and -2.0 rear.

Need recommendation on wheel and tire setup.


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[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by doug1234

... I have a 17 BRZ w/pp ... Need recommendation on wheel and tire setup.

In case you haven't already, go check out this thread.

Assuming 17x9, and depending on your budget, you might consider Konig Hypergrams, WedsSports TC105N/X, Titan 7 T-S5, Gram Lights 57-something, Volk Racing TE37

[Breadman]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

In case you haven't already, go check out this thread.

Assuming 17x9, and depending on your budget, you might consider Konig Hypergrams, WedsSports TC105N/X, Titan 7 T-S5, Gram Lights 57-something, Volk Racing TE37

6UL fit too same with arc8s

[doug1234]

Originally Posted by Breadman

6UL fit too same with arc8s

Thanks. Just saw the sale for arc8 and purchased a set.

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[Breadman]

Originally Posted by doug1234

Thanks. Just saw the sale for arc8 and purchased a set.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

rip 6uls come in gold and are cheaper and lighter

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

Generally speaking, minimal preload is what you can start with. Some systems require a lot of preload and others do not.

During my recent track day at Laguna Seca I've noticed I'm bottoming out the suspension at the exit curb in T6 when driving with a coach. The coach says it's probably the right rear. It wasn't bottoming out when driving solo later and taking the same line/speed.
I think I also occasionally bottom out the fronts when going over rough seams in pavement on highways.

I presume adding a bit of preload, and then turning the bottom bracket by the same amount should give me the dampers a bit of extra room to with with under compression? Please advise. Note that my setup is a tad higher than the recommended height, so I don't think I'll be bottoming out the body if I do so

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

During my recent track day at Laguna Seca I've noticed I'm bottoming out the suspension at the exit curb in T6 when driving with a coach. The coach says it's probably the right rear. It wasn't bottoming out when driving solo later and taking the same line/speed.
I think I also occasionally bottom out the fronts when going over rough seams in pavement on highways.

I presume adding a bit of preload, and then turning the bottom bracket by the same amount should give me the dampers a bit of extra room to with with under compression? Please advise. Note that my setup is a tad higher than the recommended height, so I don't think I'll be bottoming out the body if I do so

Are you bottoming out or engaging the HBS?

It's fundamentally impossible to bottom out the CSG FLA under high speed compression due to the HBS; the force would have to be extended over a period of time.

Adding preload doesn't increase the total stroke amount under large compressive forces. What kind of tires are you running? Bottomming out at T6 at Laguna is unusual; bottoming out at 8A is normal.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are you bottoming out or engaging the HBS?

It's fundamentally impossible to bottom out the CSG FLA under high speed compression due to the HBS; the force would have to be extended over a period of time.

Adding preload doesn't increase the total stroke amount under large compressive forces. What kind of tires are you running? Bottomming out at T6 at Laguna is unusual; bottoming out at 8A is normal.

I don't have enough experience to tell if it's the bump stop or HBS. If I remember correctly, it sounded like a solid hit. If you think it's useful I should be able to upload an onboard video from my helmet-mounted GoPro with those few occasions when we heard the sound in T6.

I'm running GT Radial SX2, 245/40R17, and I'm just a few millimeters higher than recommended ride height.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

I don't have enough experience to tell if it's the bump stop or HBS. If I remember correctly, it sounded like a solid hit. If you think it's useful I should be able to upload an onboard video from my helmet-mounted GoPro with those few occasions when we heard the sound in T6.

I'm running GT Radial SX2, 245/40R17, and I'm just a few millimeters higher than recommended ride height.

Video would be awesome!

[FymTom]

The fun begins

[why?]

Originally Posted by FymTom

The fun begins

[msaikhan]

does anyone have CSG flex As for sale?