06-20-2018, 02:20 PM | #43 |
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Beautiful interior, I'd been looking for a gauge pod like the cluster pod you have!
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The Following User Says Thank You to shadow_772 For This Useful Post: | Irace86.2.0 (06-20-2018) |
06-20-2018, 10:37 PM | #44 |
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Another update:
I installed the lower trays and cleaned the garage (it needed it bad). I got a revised tune from DT with a new set of instructions for logs to perform under variable conditions. I did those and sent them off. I am hoping to get the next revision and set of instructions tomorrow. I drove to wash the car, yet didn't go into boost as instructed. Even without doing that the car feels really smooth, and I can tell there is a monster under that pedal waiting to come out of its cage, haha. Finally, I want to give a shoutout to @johan for selling me his kit, helping me with the nuances of the install and just for being a stand up seller and guy. Also, a thanks to @sales@delicioustuning.com for working on my tune and for having a quick turn around time and communication. And to my wife, who is always supportive of my hobbies, even the expensive ones.
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06-21-2018, 01:45 AM | #45 | |
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Quote:
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06-21-2018, 02:16 AM | #46 | |
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Quote:
This is a shot of the top cool pipe that has a curve towards the access area behind the headlight. I used the screw on the alternator as a mounting point. You can also see the exit of the pump and the return: It gets a little messy on the back side, but that is out of view: The pipes sit close to the runners of the manifold. They emerge or enter medially to the manifold runners and laterally to the alternator and AC compressor. I wrapped the hot pipe in a sheath of hose for insulation:
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06-25-2018, 09:06 PM | #47 |
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There is a bung on the back of the manifold on the passenger side. I removed that, which required the use of a 3/16 sized Allen wrench. The bung was tapered, so I assumed it was an American pipe thread fitting or National Pipe Thread (NPT), which made sense because a 4.5 hex and a 5.0 hex (metric) wouldn't work.
I found a 1/8 bung to 1/8 NPT brass fitting at the hardware store. I installed the fitting into the manifold with Locktite. I removed the boost connection that was T'ing into the brake boost line and set up the hose to the fitting, and tested the car. I am happy to report that the boost gauge is reading boost finally.
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06-30-2018, 12:27 AM | #48 |
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Awwwwwwwww my clutch went boooom! lol
I was data logging, and the clutch went. I only have 63k miles on the car, but I am not gonna lie--I abuse the clutch. I brake with the clutch/engine a lot. I was running the 85mm pulley for like a week then the 95mm pulley. The gears were getting harder to engage, so I thought it might be going, but it seemed to not be slipping, which I have felt/saw rpms fly sky high on boosted cars when the clutch slipped. Back in the day I had what I thought was a noise consistent with what people were saying was a bad throw out bearing. Some said it needed replacing. Some said the clutch rod or something in the engine bay can get wet/rusty/dry/whatever that makes for the squeakiness. Regardless, the noise came after a hard rain then went away on its own after a week, but nevertheless, I'm sure the throw out bearing is toast. Most said the stock clutch would be fine at base boost levels, so I was hoping the clutch would last a little longer than this. Looks like I'll be spending more time in the garage lol
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The Following User Says Thank You to Irace86.2.0 For This Useful Post: | zeal86 (06-30-2018) |
06-30-2018, 02:34 AM | #49 |
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It was bound to happen...
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07-01-2018, 11:57 PM | #50 |
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07-02-2018, 12:10 AM | #51 |
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The fork is on the order list, as is the pivot. I値l get the TOB locally. I知 not too convinced it is necessary.
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07-02-2018, 12:49 AM | #52 | |
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Quote:
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07-02-2018, 01:44 AM | #53 | |
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I know I know. Conspiracy theories are wack. I also heard the stock fork is bad on the TOB, so I知 curious if that is a cause of failure. I may roll the dice. Worst case scenario is I have to replace the TOB in another 63k miles, which for me is like ten years of driving.
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07-03-2018, 12:16 AM | #54 |
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I removed the transmission today. It took about seven hours. The TOB was toast--literally. The bearing backing was separated from the rest, the bearing was empty of oil, and it was burnt. Seemed like it was burnt plastic.
The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate looked to be in good condition. Nothing was chipped or broken. The clutch plate had some decent thickness remaining. Good enough to use, but I'm upgrading while I'm there of course. The flywheel will get resurfaced and a new pilot bearing. A new fork and pivot. The transmission snout wasn't chewed up, as much as, it was worn down. I don't know what a new transmission snout looks like. Maybe it already comes with a step or decreasing diameter, but I feel like this might be worth replacing. At minimum, it needs some cleaning with some high grit sand paper and polishing.
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07-03-2018, 09:47 AM | #55 | |
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I emailed Exedy last night and got this email this morning
Quote:
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07-07-2018, 12:35 AM | #56 |
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I received my snout today and swapped it out.
The Verus forged fork may not be as pretty or light as the billet version, but this thing is stout like cast iron solid stout. The flywheel got resurfaced, and I received the clutch kit too. I have the new (white dot) TOB and some lubricant for the install. The Motul 300 was on backorder, and I searched all over the town for a supplier, but no one carried it, so I decided to order some AMSOIL over going with the Redline that was in stores. The AMSOIL is also rated 5 for the diff and 3 for the tranny, which seems better than the 4-5 rating on the Motul 300. Yes, the tranny can have 3-4, so that works, but I think the dedicated ratings AMSOIL provides might be better. We will see how it goes. I get that Monday, so I will install the tranny Sunday and fill with fluids Monday then start the clutch break in process.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Irace86.2.0 For This Useful Post: | zeal86 (07-07-2018) |
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