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Old 05-08-2021, 12:48 AM   #155
Irace86.2.0
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The FA20 can lick my balls. Such a bitch. Block halves aren’t ease to completely separate when the rod caps need to be removed because the pistons can’t fall through the cylinders like inline engines. The rod caps aren’t easy to remove when the engine is all seized up and the rod bolts are a bitch to get to. I know this is typically done on a bench to ease the process, but I helped it with an angle grinder, since the block was toast and this was only about discovery.

All the other rods looked decent besides the one that broke. I didn’t notice any spun bearings or anything. Bearings had some scratch marks, but it was more consistent with contamination after the fact than excess wear of spinning a bearing.

The rod that snapped off also broke the head of one of the rod bolts off. Was this failure from detonation, preignition or just too much power? The rod clearly peppered the cylinder wall. I didn’t have time to finish checking it all out. I’ll finish Sunday.
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Old 05-08-2021, 01:54 AM   #156
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Isn't that the same piston others have had spin the bearing? I'm still wondering if it's an oiling/cooling issue
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Old 05-08-2021, 05:14 AM   #157
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Isn't that the same piston others have had spin the bearing? I'm still wondering if it's an oiling/cooling issue

2 and 3 are most common to spin because they share one main feed where as 1 and 4 have dedicated feeds.
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Old 05-08-2021, 05:17 AM   #158
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Engine Blew!

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I didn’t notice any spun bearings or anything. Bearings had some scratch marks, but it was more consistent with contamination after the fact than excess wear of spinning a bearing.
Do you have any pictures of the bearings?
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Old 05-08-2021, 11:28 AM   #159
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Do you have any pictures of the bearings?
I’ll add some pictures, but I may need to use an angle grinder to cut off more parts to find out. I forgot I’m going to meet family Sunday for Mother’s Day. I may not get to things until next week.
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Old 05-08-2021, 12:31 PM   #160
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I’ll add some pictures, but I may need to use an angle grinder to cut off more parts to find out. I forgot I’m going to meet family Sunday for Mother’s Day. I may not get to things until next week.

This is important stuff, mom can wait! Hahaha. I’ll be with fam tomorrow too.
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Old 05-08-2021, 01:38 PM   #161
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is this where i sign the petition for adding another weekend to every week?
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Old 05-08-2021, 02:57 PM   #162
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No that's USD but it's fully assembled just drop it in.

Also, you can get the Step 1 for $23k you don't have to go all out.

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INSANE pricing lol!!!

You can get a fully built V8 long block for $20k that holds 1400HP.
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Old 05-08-2021, 03:25 PM   #163
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In another email reply I learned that Haltech will replace the factor ECU completely, and it will control the key fob and start button, so that means I can sell my old ECU, which may or may not work with someone else's car, but if it does then they would get access to the CARB tune and the other DT tunes I have, even if those tunes would be specific to my engine.
Yes, your ECU can be programmed to another car and they can use the Ecutek license. Just don't change the VIN number on the ECU to the other car because then the license will stop working.

Steve99 has a topic with the ECU swap programming steps with all the info in the software/tuning section.

Edit: I see now that Steve99 had answered you in another post already. I will keep my answer here so others curious and reading this topic can see it too.
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Old 05-15-2021, 09:08 PM   #164
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Here are the last of the pictures. The crank journals and bearings looked decent, but clearly were infected post destruction from contaminated oil, which is why there are small pits. The rod journals didn’t look terrible, even on number two cylinder, but the rod bearings on the number two cylinder were trashed, as you could see in the comparison. None of the other cylinders had any bent valves, worn journals, worn bearings, bent rods or anything. Number two was so annihilated that it is hard to tell what happened.

The damage:

—Two valves were bent.
—The piston rings were bent up.
—The top of the piston only had two minor impact marks.
—The piston skirt and bottom was destroyed.
—The rod was snapped and missing much of the middle.
—The cylinder was peppered with pits/strikes.
—The block was destroyed and tore through.
—Rod bearings on #2 were scratched up and pancaked, but they were in position and freely moving, not overlapping and not seized.

What do you guys think?
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Old 05-15-2021, 09:18 PM   #165
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Old 05-15-2021, 10:06 PM   #166
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Old 05-16-2021, 03:02 PM   #167
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Here are the last of the pictures. The crank journals and bearings looked decent, but clearly were infected post destruction from contaminated oil, which is why there are small pits. The rod journals didn’t look terrible, even on number two cylinder, but the rod bearings on the number two cylinder were trashed, as you could see in the comparison. None of the other cylinders had any bent valves, worn journals, worn bearings, bent rods or anything. Number two was so annihilated that it is hard to tell what happened.

The damage:

—Two valves were bent.
—The piston rings were bent up.
—The top of the piston only had two minor impact marks.
—The piston skirt and bottom was destroyed.
—The rod was snapped and missing much of the middle.
—The cylinder was peppered with pits/strikes.
—The block was destroyed and tore through.
—Rod bearings on #2 were scratched up and pancaked, but they were in position and freely moving, not overlapping and not seized.

What do you guys think?

The bearing caps don’t need to literally spin for the rods to start knocking like hell. The bearing in your picture looks bad to me. You’ve gone through a few layers of material on them. You also say they are pancaked which isn’t good at all. I doubt this was the cause for throwing a rod through the block but I’m surprised your haven’t been hearing rod knock before this incident, especially on a cold start.
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:55 PM   #168
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The bearing caps don’t need to literally spin for the rods to start knocking like hell. The bearing in your picture looks bad to me. You’ve gone through a few layers of material on them. You also say they are pancaked which isn’t good at all. I doubt this was the cause for throwing a rod through the block but I’m surprised your haven’t been hearing rod knock before this incident, especially on a cold start.
It definitely could have been slowly getting worse and worse, but then it finally gave out. Perhaps it didn't have a chance to knock because it caused immediate failure. I really can't remember, but I believe the bearing was in place, and I know the rod that snapped could freely spin around the journal, but another part of me thinks the bearing could have rotated about 5-10mm out of position. I remember one bearing being like that, but I couldn't recall if it was from the broken rod or another and just a product of the disassembly. What is obvious is that the tort head of one of the rod bolts snapped off. When, I don't know. The journal wasn't visually that damaged, unlike the bearing, but maybe because it is forged, it survived better, and maybe the bearing heated up or something, but it wasn't like I was driving for miles or weeks with rod knock like people can do.

The oil was recently changed and good, but it may have been too cold, and I could have sloshed the oil going through the 'S' curve of the left, right, right turn, but I typically need to wait for the car to clear the bucked asphalt at the apex of the corner, or the car just will lose traction. Typically, I would hit the bump then wait a second for the car to straighten out before getting on it, and that seems to be mostly the case, so while it is possible the oil starved because of lateral movement, mixed with cold temps, I just don't know.

Here is the thing: I have been listening to the video over and over. Unfortunately, the video is just from a dash camera from inside the car, and there is music and loud road noise. I used Audacity to try to isolate the sound, and when I did the best I could, I can swear I hear a squeal/whistle before the engine explodes. The squeal/whistle could be the tires breaking loose a little, but this is unlikely, as that would have decreased the stresses on the motor, so it is more likely that the squeal/whistle could be bearing surface contact. Maybe there was too much force and not enough oil to protect the surface, and once the surface made contact under high load, it set off a chain of events that caused the failure.

Listen to the audio. There is a squeal right before the destruction. Still, I don't get how the rod tore through the bottom of the piston and then disintegrated in half, or did it disintegrate and then stick the piston? Who knows?

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