Max Jack Stand Size?

[Hamza]

I have 6 ton jack stands laying around that I was thinking of using to place under the 86. But seeing the size of their arm is making me think they are too big for our cars. The length of the arm is about 11 cm across. The 4 jack points seem rather small (the subframe is honestly only like an inch across behind the groove)

Wanted to ask if it is fine or I have to get smaller ones? To be honest I prefer using the 6 ton ones just because of how big and sturdy they are, paired with my lack of trust being under jacked up cars :3

[gkubed]

If the supporting arm itself looks like it will miss the jack points and jab the body of the car, don't use them. I find smaller 3 ton jack stands easier to get in and out of underneath the car so I'd recommend just using them. They support more than enough weight still.


Additionally, while I can't really recommend Harbor Freight jack stands, they do make pretty good rubber jack stand top covers that provide a little better support and care for your car.


https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-pc-63373.html

[Hamza]

Originally Posted by gkubed

If the supporting arm itself looks like it will miss the jack points and jab the body of the car, don't use them. I find smaller 3 ton jack stands easier to get in and out of underneath the car so I'd recommend just using them. They support more than enough weight still.


Additionally, while I can't really recommend Harbor Freight jack stands, they do make pretty good rubber jack stand top covers that provide a little better support and care for your car.


https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-pc-63373.html

Yeah I think my best option is to raise the car and see where the arms of the stand would rest, then trade in for the smaller 3 ton ones. I'm not in the US so we don't have harbor freight. The ones I have are Chinese (it's the only thing you can find here for less than $90ish) but they do look and feel really solid

[ls1ac]

The pinch weld area is not half inch specific. The notch is to keep the simple stock jack from slipping. The floor jacks most of us use spread the load out. Only the show car and OCD people worry about the paint and possible damage in that area.

[Hamza]

Originally Posted by ls1ac

The pinch weld area is not half inch specific. The notch is to keep the simple stock jack from slipping. The floor jacks most of us use spread the load out. Only the show car and OCD people worry about the paint and possible damage in that area.

I see, yeah I meant the subframe behind the groove is only so wide so a bigger stand will go beyond it. I also don't quite understand the outer side from the groove is plastic so won't it break if it gets weight on it??

Also side note I may have bent one of the grooves :3 not all of it idk it's in like layers one of them is bent don't know from when, any way to fix that?

Not gonna lie, I really don't like this thing groove design. My other cars are all Germans and I really like a flat spot way more

[ls1ac]

When i read the thread name i thought it was about the MaxJax. They work great.

Just put the jack stand next to the notch in the pinch weld. Some OCD's cut a hockey puck to save the paint. This area is designed to lift the car.

[Hamza]

Originally Posted by ls1ac

When i read the thread name i thought it was about the MaxJax. They work great.

Just put the jack stand next to the notch in the pinch weld. Some OCD's cut a hockey puck to save the paint. This area is designed to lift the car.

by 'next to the notch' you mean straight up on the notch (on the thing metal line where you put the jack if you lift from the side) or on the metal plate directly behind it?

Sorry to be asking such basic questions, this groove notch stuff is just getting to my head cause they bend so easy and my brain doesn't cooperate with knowing that I jacked a car on a piece of metal 1 mm in width

[MJones_RB]

Get some of these. They help a lot.

[The Red One]

Originally Posted by Hamza

by 'next to the notch' you mean straight up on the notch (on the thing metal line where you put the jack if you lift from the side) or on the metal plate directly behind it?

Sorry to be asking such basic questions, this groove notch stuff is just getting to my head cause they bend so easy and my brain doesn't cooperate with knowing that I jacked a car on a piece of metal 1 mm in width

There has been a really good write up about how to SAFELY jack up a twin a decade ago(already ?)

See here to put your mind at ease if you want to do this right or familiarize with the options, we want to see you back.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111

with some

[YamahaR86]

Use the pads that are mentioned. When I changed my clutch I wish I had them big boy jack stands since I struggled dropping the tranny and pulling it out.

[Hamza]

Originally Posted by The Red One

There has been a really good write up about how to SAFELY jack up a twin a decade ago(already ?)

See here to put your mind at ease if you want to do this right or familiarize with the options, we want to see you back.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111

with some

Alright so I jacked it up and this is how I put the stands:

If I be honest it still doesn't make sense to me how thin metal is strong enough to bare forces when tightening/loosening bolts down there. Also the scissor jack that comes with the car avoids putting weight on the metal piece completely but puts it on either side. These are the only types of stands that are possible to get so idk. It did the job yesterday but just in case I stacked up bricks on both front and rear tyres, but I'm skeptical of taking the exhaust out on it, just seems to slippery?

[MJones_RB]

Originally Posted by Hamza

Alright so I jacked it up and this is how I put the stands:

If I be honest it still doesn't make sense to me how thin metal is strong enough to bare forces when tightening/loosening bolts down there. Also the scissor jack that comes with the car avoids putting weight on the metal piece completely but puts it on either side. These are the only types of stands that are possible to get so idk. It did the job yesterday but just in case I stacked up bricks on both front and rear tyres, but I'm skeptical of taking the exhaust out on it, just seems to slippery?

Because of the unevenness of my driveway, there is always one jack stand that isn't holding any weight and is loose, which means you can keep your car lifted with only 3 jack stands. I keep the loose one in position anyway, just in case. The reason these stands, made of cast pot metal and weak welds, can support so much weight is because they transfer the weight to the cement. It's similar to how the pyramids of Egypt don't just collapse under their own weight, since they are somewhat hollow in the center.

[Transport3r]

Originally Posted by Hamza

Alright so I jacked it up and this is how I put the stands:

If I be honest it still doesn't make sense to me how thin metal is strong enough to bare forces when tightening/loosening bolts down there. Also the scissor jack that comes with the car avoids putting weight on the metal piece completely but puts it on either side. These are the only types of stands that are possible to get so idk. It did the job yesterday but just in case I stacked up bricks on both front and rear tyres, but I'm skeptical of taking the exhaust out on it, just seems to slippery?

Friendly reminder: read the stickers on your stands. Bend that safety tab in already.

[Hamza]

Originally Posted by MJones_RB

Because of the unevenness of my driveway, there is always one jack stand that isn't holding any weight and is loose, which means you can keep your car lifted with only 3 jack stands. I keep the loose one in position anyway, just in case. The reason these stands, made of cast pot metal and weak welds, can support so much weight is because they transfer the weight to the cement. It's similar to how the pyramids of Egypt don't just collapse under their own weight, since they are somewhat hollow in the center.

Yeah I'd suppose so, just in case I'll probably get those rubber heads