CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[bdtbdtbdt]

Install question. Rce Tarmac2 coilovers in a 15 FRS. I'm using Velox adjustable camber plates. Should I use the stock top spring perch plate as a "conical washer" between the new shock and and the bottom of the top plate? Do I need to get the suburu conical washer or does the shock just go into the bottom of the top hat with no washer?

[brillo]

How do stiffer sway bars impact steering feel, if at all? I’m running RCE Yellow’s on stock shocks.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by brillo

How do stiffer sway bars impact steering feel, if at all? I’m running RCE Yellow’s on stock shocks.

With a stiffer front bar you'll notice quicker response from the front end...not technically an impact on steering "feel" but it can seem like it.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by bdtbdtbdt

Install question. Rce Tarmac2 coilovers in a 15 FRS. I'm using Velox adjustable camber plates. Should I use the stock top spring perch plate as a "conical washer" between the new shock and and the bottom of the top plate? Do I need to get the suburu conical washer or does the shock just go into the bottom of the top hat with no washer?

Sorry for missing this. I recommend using the conical washer in most cases unless the Velox plates include their own piece. Don't use the stock top spring perch plate.

Give us a call if you have any questions. We're a bit undermanned at the moment with a minor family emergency but we're here.

- Andrew

[Lust]

I have a 2017 BRZ that is lowered to 64-65 cm. I have after market SPL LCAs that have the slot for the auto level headlight sensor. The sensors are installed, however my headlights are basically aimed at the floor. Any recommendations to get the headlights back to its regular level?

[churchx]

How headlight adjustment fits in suspension thread? I'd try in electronics or DIY forum sections.

[Cjymiller]

I believe the spherical bearings are going out on the rears of my Ohlins R&T MI20. I've already got an email into Ohlins USA but I'm curious if you guys know about any place where I can source new spherical bearings that will be suitable replacements.

[Hyper4mance2k]

I am currently running Swift Spec R's on Bilstiens, with a strano front bar and WRX rear bar. All the adjustable goodies from Verus and bushes from Whiteline, but I think it's time to upgrade. This is my daily, and I live in potholesville, DC, so compliance is a must. I autoX on 225 A6's and my track wheels are RPF1s with 245 Bridgestone RE-71 Rs. I'm currently overtired, obviously, but I don't want to give up much road worthyness in order to fully use my tires.
$ is not an object; I mean it is, but I'm willing to pay for what I get. Currently considering the older Ohlins or the MCS 2Ws. I've driven quite a few V3s, and I'm not a fan. They are just far too stiff and bouncy for the street. (I'm old and broke my back in the military) I have also considered the B16, but I'm not sure if it'll even be an improvement over my current setup.

Suggestions?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

I am currently running Swift Spec R's on Bilstiens, with a strano front bar and WRX rear bar. All the adjustable goodies from Verus and bushes from Whiteline, but I think it's time to upgrade. This is my daily, and I live in potholesville, DC, so compliance is a must. I autoX on 225 A6's and my track wheels are RPF1s with 245 Bridgestone RE-71 Rs. I'm currently overtired, obviously, but I don't want to give up much road worthyness in order to fully use my tires.
$ is not an object; I mean it is, but I'm willing to pay for what I get. Currently considering the older Ohlins or the MCS 2Ws. I've driven quite a few V3s, and I'm not a fan. They are just far too stiff and bouncy for the street. (I'm old and broke my back in the military) I have also considered the B16, but I'm not sure if it'll even be an improvement over my current setup.

Suggestions?

Mini-rant:
Man a properly adjusted standard KW V3 is definitely not stiff or bouncy. Easily a better ride than stock, better ride than Swift Spec R + Bilstein B6/B8, and IMO pretty close ride to the old Ohlins (each had advantages). It's a little extra effort to get right, but if you really focus on what each adjustment does and what you're trying to fix, they can be extremely good. A lot of people don't know where to start OR they try to fix problems that are not shock valving related and it ends up not working out. THAT happens a lot and it can be really hard to break people out of their ideas of what they think a good shock should feel like and they chase that feeling instead of what actually works. I also see people just get overwhelmed or afraid to try to make them better and give up. We've had people come in to the shop with their shocks on full stiff for compression and rebound (!) and complain about a bad ride. They're ready to spend $5k on JRZs until Myles goes for a 20 minute driving/tuning session and comes back, hands them the keys, and then we get a big thank you email the next day.

OH and I'll also say that I've driven a LOT of other people's cars with shocks from JRZ, Moton, AST, Ohlins, all of the "good stuff" people love and our own RCE stuff....and there's always a chance they feel like absolute garbage. More often than not the owner doesn't even know it and they like over at me and say "Pretty awesome right?." No. Let's turn the rebound adjustment down so we don't get launched out of our seats when we run over a penny. And it's not just the 2 and 3 ways...can't tell you how many times people with simple 1 ways have said "aren't you supposed to turn your shocks to full stiff at an auto-x?" to me and they also wondered why their car skipped across the course and understeered like crazy.

Sorry, mini-rant over.

Anyway, KWs may or may not be a good choice for you.

Bilstein B16 with the progressive springs might ride better than what you have now but I'm not sure it would be a big upgrade in handling. Good shocks though and we have used them with custom springs with success.

No first hand experience with MCS. I hear good things, but no bumpstops or dustboots makes me nervous for a daily driver in the mid-atlantic.

Old Ohlins are still really good. Still wish they had more travel, but we were pretty happy with them overall.

JRZ is a good option we have a lot of experience with on these cars. Still one of my favorite options I've driven on a BRZ but they have changed somewhat since then and might not be the best choice for everyone.

Sorry again for ranting.

- Andrew

[bdtbdtbdt]

Another Set up question, Mostly autox, RCE Tarmac 2's, Fronts, I'm looking for 3.5deg - camber in front. I have adjustable Velox top hats. Where is the best place "geometrically" to adjust my camber? From the slotted coilover mounting holes or from moving the top hat mount? or some of both? Thanks for all the help in this forum.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by bdtbdtbdt

Another Set up question, Mostly autox, RCE Tarmac 2's, Fronts, I'm looking for 3.5deg - camber in front. I have adjustable Velox top hats. Where is the best place "geometrically" to adjust my camber? From the slotted coilover mounting holes or from moving the top hat mount? or some of both? Thanks for all the help in this forum.

Max out camber at the lower mount. Get the rest from up top. But I also prefer the top mounts to be "even" with each other.

- Andrew

[churchx]

bdtbdtdbdt: IIRC i recall it answered some time ago (too lazy to search) with answer being that better at lower mountpoints. But in reality imho it's more upto where/whom/how will adjust.
As in - if car is rised in air on lift in shop, it's simpler to do camber adjustment first on top, then fine adjust together with toe adjustments (changing toe changes camber and vice versa) from below car with camberbolts.
If it's you that adjusts camber right on track for track specifics/according to tire temp measurements of pyrometer, then of course it's simpler to adjust on-site at topmounts/camberplates.

[n0thing]

not sure if this is the right place to ask

im interesting in ordering the cusco rs lsd + 4.875 fd from csg. do i need anything else like oil and shims, or are they included? or i can simply hand them over to my installer?

in terms of maintenance, how will it differ from stock?

[FirstWinter]

Originally Posted by n0thing

not sure if this is the right place to ask

im interesting in ordering the cusco rs lsd + 4.875 fd from csg. do i need anything else like oil and shims, or are they included? or i can simply hand them over to my installer?

in terms of maintenance, how will it differ from stock?

You will get a faster response & better answers if you contact CSG directly. Send them an email or PM @CSG Mike