KPower Industries K24 swap

[RedReplicant]

Nope, you’re good as long as your new sensor is reading as you expect.

[Irace86.2.0]

I don't know if anyone saw this. I'm guessing that is a G25-660. It looks like it and seems to be what they have used in the past, but I don't know what trim they are using. They haven't released specifics, but it seems to be internally gated, and they are working on a transmission. I'm sure they will go with a BMW unit like they have in the past, but I wouldn't mind a CD009, as that is what I would prefer. I could always do a Collins kit or something else, if I don't care for the transmission choice they use. It also looks like they relocated the washer filler up higher, and there seems to be an aluminum canister in place of the old unit:

[RedReplicant]

I wonder what changes would be needed to make the mounts work with a K24Z. Seems better on paper for turbo packaging / heat management.

Also curious about the transmission option, I'd be happy to offload my Jack's Transmission and hopefully break even.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I wonder what changes would be needed to make the mounts work with a K24Z. Seems better on paper for turbo packaging / heat management.

Also curious about the transmission option, I'd be happy to offload my Jack's Transmission and hopefully break even.

I think a manifold like this with an internally gated wastegate or an external one that is down turned and not straight off the manifold like this one would be good and probably make things easier by far to route the downpipe.



I would need to offload my driveshaft, transmission mount, shifter, flywheel and transmission adapter to upgrade, so I’m expecting a decent loss, unless wait times are still long. I bet you could break even.

[ML]

did Redreplicant's wiring harness fix yesterday and can confirm it was very simple fix. All the parts came really fast and cost less than 20$

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

did Redreplicant's wiring harness fix yesterday and can confirm it was very simple fix. All the parts came really fast and cost less than 20$

Did this fix your oil pressure drop as well by chance?

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Did this fix your oil pressure drop as well by chance?

Going to VIR Thursday so we will see if it’s a sensor or oil starvation issue

[funkjaw]

Ran against a friend's 2020 Ecoboost Mustang A/T Convertible. His car is bone stock, my KRZ was on ~E30 fuel

https://youtube.com/shorts/QubxM2vCCVk

Obviously not the most crazy of kills, but considering that a stock EcoBoost Mustang is normally a full 1 second faster in 0-60 over a stock twin, I'd say these results show just how much quicker doing this swap makes these cars.

[RedReplicant]

Had my stock DS shortened 5.5" per captain_awesome's specs, I'll test it this week. Cost $395, hopefully it makes a noticeable difference

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Had my stock DS shortened 5.5" per captain_awesome's specs, I'll test it this week. Cost $395, hopefully it makes a noticeable difference

Absolutely give us an update! NVH in this car is starting to put a hamper in my fun... cuz it's hard to have fun if I am worried about everything rattling apart.

[captain awesome]

I really hope it helps as well. I'd feel like a piece of crap if you saw little change as it's not a cheap fix. I've put about 5k miles on my shortened driveshaft but from my notes it was night and day difference. Coupled with removing the poly trans bushing it's so much more daily driver friendly. I may still pop the STI trans mount back in though. Pretty sure I'm overworking the floppy stock one.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I really hope it helps as well. I'd feel like a piece of crap if you saw little change as it's not a cheap fix.

In the grand scheme of lighting money on fire it wouldn't be a big deal, haha.

I ordered spacers/bolts from mcmaster so I should be able to test on Wednesday/Thursday.

I'm weighing chopping out the ~3" flex section of the Perrin and replacing it with a longer 6" flex section in effort to keep the header alive, not sure if it is worth it though.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

In the grand scheme of lighting money on fire it wouldn't be a big deal, haha.

I ordered spacers/bolts from mcmaster so I should be able to test on Wednesday/Thursday.

I'm weighing chopping out the ~3" flex section of the Perrin and replacing it with a longer 6" flex section in effort to keep the header alive, not sure if it is worth it though.

I keep checking mine to see if I have any signs of cracks but nothing yet. From the pics of failed welds I've seen so far it looks like poor filler/penetration that's the culprit. Maybe I got lucky on my set?


I'm also still looking into my shortened stock shifter assembly when the new built block is finished. Just need to drop it by my welder to have it glued together with the TIG. This would help the buzz coming from my stock shift knob around 3-3500 rpm.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I keep checking mine to see if I have any signs of cracks but nothing yet. From the pics of failed welds I've seen so far it looks like poor filler/penetration that's the culprit. Maybe I got lucky on my set?


I'm also still looking into my shortened stock shifter assembly when the new built block is finished. Just need to drop it by my welder to have it glued together with the TIG. This would help the buzz coming from my stock shift knob around 3-3500 rpm.

Yeah my shifter rattle is pretty dang bad in the 5-7k rpm range. Unlike you I have a stock shifter assembly so I think my next stop is to install this: https://www.perrin.com/shop/interior...-lockout-lever
They claim it eliminates the rattle that comes from the loose tolerances on the stock lock-out unit.

I'll update once I install it.