KPower Industries K24 swap

[RedReplicant]

Didn't want to rotate in to place due to hitting the idler bracket



So I started cuttin




Only had to cut off a tiny section of unused bracket, I'd have taken a big chunk of unused material off if the bracket was off the car since its a waste.

Marked where the intake tube ends inside of the boot, there is like 1/3" or something of tube inside the boot, good enough for NA.



Hardware that comes with the adapter is dogshit A2 stuff, buy better allen head bolts into the intake manifold and buy the bolts depot 10.9 or whatever, the same bolts that fit the 74mm KPower adapter will work with the Ichiban Engineering one.

For these bolts and a KPower BRZ, KPower Bosch 74mm adapter, or Ichiban Engineering 74mm you want 45mm for a 74mm TB or 60mm for a BRZ throttle body.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_fla...Selected=17739

Don't ever buy Amazon bolts, I bought some """"GRADE 12.9"""" and they broke in one session on a BRZ throttle body.

[captain awesome]

So is the adapter able to get the bore aligned with the intake opening? If you take more material from the tensioner bracket can the adapter be flipped 180?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

So is the adapter able to get the bore aligned with the intake opening? If you take more material from the tensioner bracket can the adapter be flipped 180?

That is actually the adapter before I chopped the piece to let it bolt up, the adapter bore matches the intake bore perfectly now. In either case, the B Series bolt pattern only allows bolting in one orientation. I just went down and swapped the adapters back because I originally misread your question thinking you were referring to the intake pipe... it's hard to tell, but the Ichiban adapter lines up straighter with the intake tube than the KPower one does.

My original intent here was to have a track spare adapter with me in case a bolt broke and I was unable to extract it at the track. I think I'm going to run the Ichiban as my primary and keep the KPower as a spare.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

That is actually the adapter before I chopped the piece to let it bolt up, the adapter bore matches the intake bore perfectly now. In either case, the B Series bolt pattern only allows bolting in one orientation. I just went down and swapped the adapters back because I originally misread your question thinking you were referring to the intake pipe... it's hard to tell, but the Ichiban adapter lines up straighter with the intake tube than the KPower one does.

My original intent here was to have a track spare adapter with me in case a bolt broke and I was unable to extract it at the track. I think I'm going to run the Ichiban as my primary and keep the KPower as a spare.

Understood. I will add this to my future mods funds pile.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Understood. I will add this to my future mods funds pile.

I'd hold off, there is a better option that I am guessing someone is going to commercialize sooner than later.

edit: That escalated quickly, I ordered one from Emile Tabb, it'll be shipped Monday.

[redlined600]

Where would one find that for sale?

[Evil Rocky]

How or where do we buy these?

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I'd hold off, there is a better option that I am guessing someone is going to commercialize sooner than later.

edit: That escalated quickly, I ordered one from Emile Tabb, it'll be shipped Monday.

[RedReplicant]

Message Emile Tabb / WinningFormula on Instagram or Facebook. They're not cheap, but he came up with the idea and I am lazy when an off the shelf solution exists.

[moosefro]

Since the swap I haven't been able to get the pedal dance to work and was curious if other owners have lost it as well.
I'm considering the trac-box as a solution but if I have something wrong in settings I'd prefer to just fix it. Car is a 2014 manual BRZ and I've had no issue completing the steps prior to the swap.
Some things that I'm suspicious might be the issue are:
1. While coolant temp comes up normally, the oil temp sits way lower than on the supercharged FA20.
2. press/release of the brake pedal at idle affects the rpm.
Any insight would be appreciated.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by moosefro

Since the swap I haven't been able to get the pedal dance to work and was curious if other owners have lost it as well.
I'm considering the trac-box as a solution but if I have something wrong in settings I'd prefer to just fix it. Car is a 2014 manual BRZ and I've had no issue completing the steps prior to the swap.
Some things that I'm suspicious might be the issue are:
1. While coolant temp comes up normally, the oil temp sits way lower than on the supercharged FA20.
2. press/release of the brake pedal at idle affects the rpm.
Any insight would be appreciated.

Oil temp calibration file is probably wrong in the map. I can't believe they haven't fixed that in the base map at this point but other swaps have all run into the same issue.



Interesting on the brakes. Sure there's no vacuum leaks?


Never did the pedal dance after the swap but I can confirm the Trac-Box works perfectly.

[RedReplicant]

My idle also slightly bumps when I press the brakes and my Beastronix works

Like captain awesome said your oil temp calibration is probably wrong and depending on when your harness was produced your oil temp sensor may be grounded incorrectly.

[moosefro]

Oil sensor was correctly grounded by kpower but the calibration on the base map was terrible. I input the correct parameters and the sensor has been reading accurately over a range of ambient temps. When I say it is reading low temps, I mean that I haven't been able to get oil temp above 200f even after track driving while on the fa20 it was almost always above that.

At this point, I don't think there is anything wrong with my car and was suspecting that part of the swap made activating pedal dance via the pedal and handbrake unavailable. I was hoping to confirm that with anyone who doesn't use a trac-box. If this is incorrect, I will begin troubleshooting starting in the areas I mentioned.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by moosefro

Oil sensor was correctly grounded by kpower but the calibration on the base map was terrible. I input the correct parameters and the sensor has been reading accurately over a range of ambient temps. When I say it is reading low temps, I mean that I haven't been able to get oil temp above 200f even after track driving while on the fa20 it was almost always above that.

At this point, I don't think there is anything wrong with my car and was suspecting that part of the swap made activating pedal dance via the pedal and handbrake unavailable. I was hoping to confirm that with anyone who doesn't use a trac-box. If this is incorrect, I will begin troubleshooting starting in the areas I mentioned.

Are you running an oil cooler? If so it seems to be normal

I've played around in Techstream and I know that the brake pedal is correct from the ABS unit, but I don't have the handbrake wired into the car to test and see if that is reading correctly from the ABS unit. I do have an error about clutch pedal position not reporting from the ABS unit, but I am not sure if that is swap related or not.

[moosefro]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Are you running an oil cooler? If so it seems to be normal

The oil cooler side of my jackson dual radiator/oil cooler isn't hooked up yet. Although I was babying it the first track day and the last one was in the snow so they might not be representative of normal track use. With the temps I was seeing I was considering not hooking it up at all. But as we get into the summer and I start pushing harder I might see a need soon.