KPower Industries K24 swap

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Sealeyteamsix

So, I've used the search function, gotten close, then no cigar lol. Curious if anyone has a pinout digram in order to make our own harness. I bought a new 54 pin engine harness plug and a k series engine harness with the hopes of creating my own but after 2 weeks of searching, I can't even find any diagrams or anything to help point me in the direction I'm trying to go. If anyone would be willing to message me any helpful links/diagrams/solutions, that would be greatly appreciated. I'm all about supporting Kpower and have gotten a bunch of their stuff, but would like to save a bit, and learn a bit, creating my own harness.


-Ty

Here's the factory diagram CLICK ME


What ECU are you using? Haltech like the Kpower kit? If so how will you sort out the jumper board?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Sealeyteamsix

So, I've used the search function, gotten close, then no cigar lol. Curious if anyone has a pinout digram in order to make our own harness. I bought a new 54 pin engine harness plug and a k series engine harness with the hopes of creating my own but after 2 weeks of searching, I can't even find any diagrams or anything to help point me in the direction I'm trying to go. If anyone would be willing to message me any helpful links/diagrams/solutions, that would be greatly appreciated. I'm all about supporting Kpower and have gotten a bunch of their stuff, but would like to save a bit, and learn a bit, creating my own harness.


-Ty

I'm not really sure what you are doing yourself. Did you buy the jumper harness and jumper board and Haltech ECU, but you are trying to make a harness yourself instead of buying this? You said you bought a 54pin connector and a K series engine harness, right, so a used one or a universal one or a cheaper one that is for other cars, and you want to hack it up to make it work with the 54 pin connector, right? If that is the case then everything you need is in electric diagram Captain posted.

[Sealeyteamsix]

Yes I bought a haltech elite 1500 and will be pulling the trigger on the jumper board today or tomorrow. Just trying to build the engine harness myself. I will look into his diagram and attempt to make it this weekend. And thats exactly right, bought a "tucked" harness that I want to hack up to recreate that one you pictured.

[RedReplicant]

If you're using their jumper board then you need to copy the KPower 54 pin exactly since it will not match stock pin for pin. I wrote down what some pins were when troubleshooting mine, but I don't have a full pinout anywhere. Your best bet is going to be begging KPower to send it to you or to map your adapter board output -> input -> haltech and build a 54 pin diagram from there.

I asked them for pinouts and they weren't supplied to me, so if you do get ahold of them please post them.

[ML]

Here is what I ended up doing with the exhaust around the cd009 and mounts. Its still really tight and it may need a hammer in a few places. I just slipped it over the cut header so we will see how bad the exhaust leak is lol. Don't mind my damn fluxcore welds

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Sealeyteamsix

Yes I bought a haltech elite 1500 and will be pulling the trigger on the jumper board today or tomorrow. Just trying to build the engine harness myself. I will look into his diagram and attempt to make it this weekend. And thats exactly right, bought a "tucked" harness that I want to hack up to recreate that one you pictured.

You bought the 54 pin connector, and you will be reusing some of the clips from the stock FA20 harness like the TB sensor/actuator, or are you using a K24 TB?

The electrical wiring diagram is a bit of a bear; you will have to trace the lines through multiple pages back to the harness and ECM and compare with the jumper board. Ugh

[Sealeyteamsix]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

You bought the 54 pin connector, and you will be reusing some of the clips from the stock FA20 harness like the TB sensor/actuator, or are you using a K24 TB?

The electrical wiring diagram is a bit of a bear; you will have to trace the lines through multiple pages back to the harness and ECM and compare with the jumper board. Ugh

Yeah that was my plan was to reuse some of the BRZ connectors but it’s becoming more and more discouraging lol probably just end up paying them the money for theirs.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Sealeyteamsix

Yeah that was my plan was to reuse some of the BRZ connectors but it’s becoming more and more discouraging lol probably just end up paying them the money for theirs.

Wiring is not for the faint of heart. It is a tedious process to sort through the wiring diagrams and cross reference everything with the jumper board for accuracy with the wiring diagrams. It would be far easiee doing a custom harness without using the stock harness, and it would be even easier without integrating CANBUS. Frankly for me, some things are better worth my time to buy the part and work some overtime. This is one of them. Good luck either way.

[RedReplicant]

If anyone else was curious about the Ichiban 74mm Bosch to B Series (kpower flange) adapter, mine finally showed up from Thailand last week.




I haven't test fit it yet, but it seems like it'll work. Currently looking into another intake manifold to throttle body option that has cropped up though.

[ML]

So if anyone needs to get access to the oil pan I have successfully done that last night. You will need a engine support bar like the one below but the way I did it was have one hook and slid it from under the intake manifold there is a gap between the middle runners and the head. Just put on hook through there to support the engine from above.


Then basically unbolt the sway bar supports (that go from the chassis to the subframe) but leave the bolts that hold it to the chassis in, just loose. unbolt the lower control arm connections to the subframe, steering rack, on one side I found it easier to loosed the strut/knuckle bolts, and disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle, and the sway bar connections to the lower control arms. Then it was just unbolt the motor mounts from the bottom and drop the subframe out while moving the lower control arms out of the way. All said and done it took 3 hours to drop it, take the oil pan off, reseal it, and put the car back on the ground. Really not too bad

[captain awesome]

How thick is the spacer vs the Kpower one?

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

If anyone else was curious about the Ichiban 74mm Bosch to B Series (kpower flange) adapter, mine finally showed up from Thailand last week.




I haven't test fit it yet, but it seems like it'll work. Currently looking into another intake manifold to throttle body option that has cropped up though.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

How thick is the spacer vs the Kpower one?

Throttle bodies from flange that goes against adapter gasket to outer edge of TB inlet:
BRZ 65mm: 69mm
Bosch 74mm: 57mm

KPower BRZ 65mm Adapter: 24mm + 1-2mm for gasket
KPower Bosch 74mm Adapter: 21mm + 1-2mm for gasket
Ichiban Engineering Bosch 74mm Adapter: 22mm + no gasket thickness since it uses an o ring instead of a flat gasket (also note that you also lose the flat 1-2mm gasket between the manifold and the adapter)

This kinda highlights how much shorter the stack height from the intake manifold to the intake tube adapter is for the Bosch vs BRZ TBs (and therefore more flex afforded by the coupler). Over half an inch more flex in the Bosch setup vs BRZ.

[captain awesome]

Fingers crossed this one fits well. I'd like to just rely on an o-ring seal instead of the Kpower stuff.

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Throttle bodies from flange that goes against adapter gasket to outer edge of TB inlet:
BRZ 65mm: 69mm
Bosch 74mm: 57mm

KPower BRZ 65mm Adapter: 24mm + 1-2mm for gasket
KPower Bosch 74mm Adapter: 21mm + 1-2mm for gasket
Ichiban Engineering Bosch 74mm Adapter: 22mm + no gasket thickness since it uses an o ring instead of a flat gasket (also note that you also lose the flat 1-2mm gasket between the manifold and the adapter)

This kinda highlights how much shorter the stack height from the intake manifold to the intake tube adapter is for the Bosch vs BRZ TBs (and therefore more flex afforded by the coupler). Over half an inch more flex in the Bosch setup vs BRZ.

[RedReplicant]

I'll test fit it later today, just been lazy about going into the garage lately lol.