Notable controls / defaults for MY17 owners

[WWFT86]

Another notable - today was first time driving in near freezing temperature and first time I feel I absolutely need to get my Blizzaks on asap. Previously it was fine even around 3 degrees celcius (37 Fahrenheit)...

Now I just have to drive super conservatively until my tire swap appointment next Monday...

[WWFT86]

For those of you who just got your performance package'd BRZ - congrats and these notables may come in handy

[imnotsureaboutbrz]

The blue engine coolant icon... Is that to let you know the car isn't at operating temperature yet? So should 'we' be sitting and waiting for it to go away?

I'd read the manual, but my car hasn't been delivered yet...

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by imnotsureaboutbrz

The blue engine coolant icon... Is that to let you know the car isn't at operating temperature yet? So should 'we' be sitting and waiting for it to go away?

I'd read the manual, but my car hasn't been delivered yet...

I never sit and wait for it. I just wait a few seconds and go. Just keeping an eye on oil temp during my trip before I get on the throttle hard.
The blue indicator usually goes away fairly quick when driving. Takes forever to go away if you just sit there.

[tomm.brz]

What does the car alarm consist in? i think i have it off in my my17 and don t know if I should turn it on..

[WWFT86]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

What does the car alarm consist in? i think i have it off in my my17 and don t know if I should turn it on..

The system sounds the alarm and flashes the lights when forcible
entry is detected.

■ Triggering of the alarm
The alarm is triggered when a locked door or the trunk lid is
unlocked or opened in any way other than using the “keyless
access” entry function or remote keyless entry system while the
alarm is set.

[WWFT86]

Originally Posted by imnotsureaboutbrz

The blue engine coolant icon... Is that to let you know the car isn't at operating temperature yet? So should 'we' be sitting and waiting for it to go away?

I'd read the manual, but my car hasn't been delivered yet...

It let's you know that the engine coolant isn't at normal operating temperature yet and the ECU may, with inputs from other engine sensors, uses lookup tables to carry out adjustments to the engine actuators, i.e. change the fuel injection or ignition timing.

This is necessary because in order to run smoothly, a cold engine requires different timing and fuel mixture than an engine at operating temperature.

Basically I'd say take it easy when you see this blue indicator and don't floor it or put the engine under any heavy stress/load. Check out this old thread about starting with a cold engine if you have time -- http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48264 or read this one that is particularly useful:


10-06-2013, 02:25 AM #82
Trettiosjuan

Hi guys/gals,

I live in Sweden and am an automotive engineer, so perhaps I am qualified to answer. So here is how I do it and why.

- Drive off immediatly if possible (clear windows), you need *some* load and oil pressure to both warm the engine and keep it protected from wear.
- At first use a very light throttle to keep torque and load low, BUT drive in one gear LOWER the you usually would when taking it easy! So roughly 3000rpm instead of 2000rpm. Why? For the same power (torque x revs), you torque and load will be (much) lower (less wear), while at the same time higher oil pressure will give more protection (less wear). Also many imagine it is combustion that warms the oil, when in fact it is primarily friction in the oil itself, especially at startup. The higher revs and higher oil pressure combined with very low load thus make the oil warm much faster in a safe manner than if you would "baby" it (not) by keeping revs very low.
-Roughly, the oil reaches temperature in twice the time of the coolant. Instead of suddenly going WOT because you now think the oil is warm, a safer and quicker strategy is to progressively increase load (thats is, throttle) over 5-10min once you have some temperature in your coolant. Progression is a good thing as progressive more load will introduce more heat and accelerate the warming without any thermal shock that may cause wear. Let the ramp up of load reach its peak at about twice twice the time it took for the coolant to reach its steady operating temperature.

With the above method, you will heat the engine quicker, have less wear and use less fuel once it is warm, than driving along in very low revs and then suddenly pinning it while not being quite sure if the oil is hot enough. In fact, good chance is that the oil never gets really hot that way and you will give your engine a thermal shock by suddenly going WOT to the redline...

How fast this goes of course depends on many factors, data is nice but the good thing with this one is that with this method is fairly foolproof without the need of hard data.

So in summary.
Drive off asap, very light throttle and choose one gear lower than usual, build load progressively once coolant needle gets moving, build progressively so that the time for full load equals twice the time the coolant reached its operating temperature.

The very fact that you care and want to warm the engine will make the biggest difference...

[giggidy]

Originally Posted by WWFT86

It let's you know that the engine coolant isn't at normal operating temperature yet and the ECU may, with inputs from other engine sensors, uses lookup tables to carry out adjustments to the engine actuators, i.e. change the fuel injection or ignition timing.

This is necessary because in order to run smoothly, a cold engine requires different timing and fuel mixture than an engine at operating temperature.

Basically I'd say take it easy when you see this blue indicator and don't floor it or put the engine under any heavy stress/load. Check out this old thread about starting with a cold engine if you have time -- http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48264 or read this one that is particularly useful:


10-06-2013, 02:25 AM #82
Trettiosjuan

Hi guys/gals,

I live in Sweden and am an automotive engineer, so perhaps I am qualified to answer. So here is how I do it and why.

- Drive off immediatly if possible (clear windows), you need *some* load and oil pressure to both warm the engine and keep it protected from wear.
- At first use a very light throttle to keep torque and load low, BUT drive in one gear LOWER the you usually would when taking it easy! So roughly 3000rpm instead of 2000rpm. Why? For the same power (torque x revs), you torque and load will be (much) lower (less wear), while at the same time higher oil pressure will give more protection (less wear). Also many imagine it is combustion that warms the oil, when in fact it is primarily friction in the oil itself, especially at startup. The higher revs and higher oil pressure combined with very low load thus make the oil warm much faster in a safe manner than if you would "baby" it (not) by keeping revs very low.
-Roughly, the oil reaches temperature in twice the time of the coolant. Instead of suddenly going WOT because you now think the oil is warm, a safer and quicker strategy is to progressively increase load (thats is, throttle) over 5-10min once you have some temperature in your coolant. Progression is a good thing as progressive more load will introduce more heat and accelerate the warming without any thermal shock that may cause wear. Let the ramp up of load reach its peak at about twice twice the time it took for the coolant to reach its steady operating temperature.

With the above method, you will heat the engine quicker, have less wear and use less fuel once it is warm, than driving along in very low revs and then suddenly pinning it while not being quite sure if the oil is hot enough. In fact, good chance is that the oil never gets really hot that way and you will give your engine a thermal shock by suddenly going WOT to the redline...

How fast this goes of course depends on many factors, data is nice but the good thing with this one is that with this method is fairly foolproof without the need of hard data.

So in summary.
Drive off asap, very light throttle and choose one gear lower than usual, build load progressively once coolant needle gets moving, build progressively so that the time for full load equals twice the time the coolant reached its operating temperature.

The very fact that you care and want to warm the engine will make the biggest difference...

Thanks... did not even think about friction warming up oil - and here I've been idling my car for upwards of 5min at startup.

So basically clear windows/remove snow etc. Start engine and start off right away at low throttle but 1 gear lower ~3000rpm until the blue light goes off? Then progressively drop down gears to normal speeds?

[WWFT86]

>> So basically clear windows/remove snow etc. Start engine and start off right away at low throttle but 1 gear lower ~3000rpm until the blue light goes off? Then progressively drop down gears to normal speeds?
giggidy is offline <<

I'd say drive one gear lower than usual, then build load progressively until you get to first notch for oil temperature gauge on the 17's. About 90 degrees celcius, then redline every shift if you want

[The359]

To note, on my '13 BRZ automatic, manual mode without the Sport mode engaged tended to not have rev matching on down shifts.

Also, the Snow mode changed the gear shift parameters so that the car would upshift at lower RPMs than usual.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by WWFT86

Also I found my MY17 car's alarm is left at default (e.g. alarm off) from dealer. Here are the steps to turn it on:
- close all doors and trunk
- push button to on
- open driver side door at least to first latch while holding the door lock button
- continue to hold button for 10 seconds
- 1x horn chirp means alarm is active
- 2x means it's disabled
- make sure the door is opened enough as a little gap will not trigger the change

im not figuring out how to enable this.. what means open the door while holding the door lock button? the button near the latch or the centralized lock? if i hold any of these 2, they just unlock by themself while i open the door

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

im not figuring out how to enable this.. what means open the door while holding the door lock button? the button near the latch or the centralized lock? if i hold any of these 2, they just unlock by themself while i open the door

Use the lock button that is next to the window controls.

[tomm.brz]

but how? i press it, doors go locked but then i open the door and it gets unlocked (every doors get unlocked) and the car starts to regularly beep 'cause i opened the door and nothing else happens

does the engine need to be turned on or just 1 press of the start is enough? or 2 presses without the clutch, when all leds are lit?

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

but how? i press it, doors go locked but then i open the door and it gets unlocked (every doors get unlocked) and the car starts to regularly beep 'cause i opened the door and nothing else happens

does the engine need to be turned on or just 1 press of the start is enough? or 2 presses without the clutch, when all leds are lit?

I think the other guy worded it wrong/weird.

Get in the car, make sure all doors/trunk are closed.
Press start button 2 times (ON position).
Lock the car with the door switch.
Unlock with the door switch and hold it down while you open your door.
Wait a bit and you'll either hear it honk once or twice.
One honk is on, two is off.