Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[deca]

Originally Posted by 14stu

I've got an eighth of an inch out in front and neutral in the back, but you have to balance with the rest of your suspension to make the whole setup work as a system.

Is there any easy way to convert inches to degrees? It seems like everyone on the boards talks in inches but I only have degrees for reference on my own setup.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by deca

Is there any easy way to convert inches to degrees? It seems like everyone on the boards talks in inches but I only have degrees for reference on my own setup.

https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by deca

Last year was my first season of autox and track days, I ran 225 Continental ECS with TRD springs and front camber bolts. Front camber unfortunately capped at 1 degree and I believe the rear was sitting very close to 2 degrees on both sides. For the coming season I picked up a set of Verus camber plates and am planning to run 225 Hankook RS4s with 3 degrees in the front.

My question is what should I realistically expect from this change? I know that the tires will have significantly more grip, but with the alignment will I still experience the same terminal understeer at a higher limit or will the handling shift to be more neutral or even go toward oversteer?

Originally Posted by 14stu

Understeer/oversteer is more of a function of toe than camber.

At the track, going from -1 to -3 front camber will significantly reduce mid-corner understeer. IMO for track work camber is more important than toe as long as toe is within a reasonable range.

For 90/10 street track, I run -3.2F/-2.5R camber and zero toe all around fwiw.

[iLuveKetchup]

-1* front camber with bolts is a high # (or low depending on how you look at it). You should be getting at least -3.2* with bolts, 225 tires, & OEM spring perch (clearance). Much like an SSC car.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by iLuveKetchup

-1* front camber with bolts is a high # (or low depending on how you look at it). You should be getting at least -3.2* with bolts, 225 tires, & OEM spring perch (clearance). Much like an SSC car.

SSC Konis have a non standard enlarged upper bolt hole and use two camber bolts. -1.0 to -1.5 is exactly where one camber bolt in OE spec mounting holes should be.

[iLuveKetchup]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

SSC Konis have a non standard enlarged upper bolt hole and use two camber bolts. -1.0 to -1.5 is exactly where one camber bolt in OE spec mounting holes should be.

Stop.

SSC Konis should have standard size holes. The enlarged holes were an issue (or advantage) in the past. SSC uses (1) camber bolt per front corner. And it should installed on the bottom. This is if you are following rules.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by iLuveKetchup

Stop.

SSC Konis should have standard size holes. The enlarged holes were an issue (or advantage) in the past. SSC uses (1) camber bolt per front corner. And it should installed on the bottom. This is if you are following rules.

Koni never changed their design, they just started supplying a stepped washer to mimic the OE hole which isn't part of the SSC kit. You can't get over -3 with just bolts on OE spec strut interfaces, I've tried, mine caps out at about -2.6 with two lobed bolts. You get about a half a degree out of the second enlarged hole on the Koni's which is consistent with the Street class issue years ago.

The rules totally allow for using the 'factory crash bolt' from the bottom hole in the top position, the language allowing factory published/authorized methods of alignment adjustment is copy pasted from the Street class rules.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Autocross/c...l_live_thread/

7:35pm Koni shocks do not work in street class without a bracket, to make them street class legal. Otherwise they allow too much camber adjustment. Just ask Koni for the adapter if you need it for street class for some reason. NOT NEEDED FOR SSC

7:26pm More build pictures, comments on install being really easy to work on. Common Questions
OEMs offer crash bolts, factory authorized methods are allowed.

Similar notes from another member posted here;
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=949

7) Crash bolts, factory authorized, are allow.
11) shocks legal for street class, but need a different specific part to make the camber adjust hole oem sized. contact koni for the part.

https://racer.com/2018/04/18/diving-...cross-class/2/

Of note is that when installing the front dampers, the SPC alignment bolts go in the lower strut mount, while the upper gets filled with a 14mm OE bolt. If you are starting with a completely stock car you may need to source a 14mm strut bolt separately, as the standard part is a 16mm unit; the smaller bolt is authorized for alignment adjustment in the factory shop manual.

[iLuveKetchup]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

The rules totally allow for using the 'factory crash bolt' from the bottom hole in the top position, the language allowing factory published/authorized methods of alignment adjustment is copy pasted from the Street class rules.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Autocross/c...l_live_thread/


Similar notes from another member posted here;
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=949


https://racer.com/2018/04/18/diving-...cross-class/2/

Since you know it all, maybe you should inform SCCA / Tire Rack and let them know that their instructions are incorrect.

[Pat]

Your kindness is appreciated, iLuveKetchup.

[Icecreamtruk]

For all that is worth, as im sure most here already do this or have at least tried it. When I tried to squeeze the most camber out of 1 camber bolt + camber plates, as I was maxing at -3.4 in one side but could go all the way to -4.5 on the other side, the guy who makes my alignments decide to just slack all bolts with the car sitting on its weight. After readjust we were able to now get to -4.7 on one side and -5.0 on the other, so in classes where the hardware you have to work with is limited, this is probably one of the things to do to maximise your chances.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

For all that is worth, as im sure most here already do this or have at least tried it. When I tried to squeeze the most camber out of 1 camber bolt + camber plates, as I was maxing at -3.4 in one side but could go all the way to -4.5 on the other side, the guy who makes my alignments decide to just slack all bolts with the car sitting on its weight. After readjust we were able to now get to -4.7 on one side and -5.0 on the other, so in classes where the hardware you have to work with is limited, this is probably one of the things to do to maximise your chances.

Your alignment guy is far, far more capable than most!

Be sure to try to re-center as much as you can, and double check thrust angle. Also, check your steering and measure ackerman in addition to caster, as by playing with tolerance, you're introducing a lot of new variables.

[racingfool]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

measure ackerman

Do these cars have normal ackerman?

I seem to remember the Mk1 MR2 has reverse ackerman.
The front toes in more with steering input. Sounds crazy to me.

They didn't do this to the 86 did they?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by racingfool

Do these cars have normal ackerman?

I seem to remember the Mk1 MR2 has reverse ackerman.
The front toes in more with steering input. Sounds crazy to me.

They didn't do this to the 86 did they?

um.... there are some clever bushings that deflect asymmetrically.;

[racingfool]

I don't understand what you are saying.